Factory A/C conversion to Dealer A/C

[1990new]

The hose that I see looks like factory and the tensioner is the same as mine.
To be sure you need to take a picture of the compressor where the hoses connect to the manifold.

Do you plan to use R12 or 134a refrigerant?
Since your system has been open for a while you will need to remove all the components and flush them thoroughly.
You will also need a new expansion valve (about $15) and and new receiver/dryer. ($20 to $25), plus all new o rings for the connections.

How often do you AC in Alaska anyway? I see you note & Seattle, shipping would be a lot less to Seattle.

Seems like a daunting job if you have never taken a system apart before but it really isn't.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

All of my LXs (the two mentioned above and two more non-perfect, though still no rust, ones are in WA. I'd eventually like to upgrade all four LXs to FI and already have suitable FI donors ready.

In AK, I have a black+tan 89 L I had driven up in 2001 with a now-trashed gearbox and a 1992 L that I bought for $100 in 2009 and was torn up by the bozo who stole it recently for six months to do bulk shoplifting with his buddies and serves as my daily driver when I'm in ANC.

Obviously, there's no need for AC in Los Anchorage when 80F temp and/or any real humidity are quite rare, and the bad guys will steal anything and everything; property crime went up 47% last year alone and APD won't lift a finger except for homicides -- yet 2016 was a record for homicides (37 as I recall) and 2017 with its "triple" in Spenard topped 2016. They don't call it the Last Frontier for nothing!

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

1990new,

Attached are two shots of the 88's AC plumbing. Not much to see on the 89 since the thief took the hoses along with the compressor.

Does the 88 look "factory" and the 89 (to the extend stuff is still there) also? If so, then I'll order the compressor (4-day FDX ground to WA for about $22) immediately.


I'm talking to Napa WA about doing the AC work; they will only do the new "legal" fluid type and the recommended flushing, hoses, etc. I trust they know what they're doing and by using them I'll be covered wherever the car may need support (for two years apparently). I've never worked on AC and now isn't the time to start.

If you want better photos of the 88's AC hardware, I'll be replacing its leaky radiator no later than this weekend with one I brought down from my spares supply (about 5 disassembled Festies over the years) from ANC so will be able to get the camera closer to everything when there's no radiator in the way.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Today, I purchased a '93 GL automatic with blown motor (with only 130K miles) and nice clean interior and AC for parts for three hundred bucks.

Attached is a photo of the compressor in unknown condition. The seller told me that the motor blew (due to lack of coolant) a mere nine miles after he bought the car.

Given the unknown condition of this new-to-me compressor, is it worth rebuilding and where would I get that done. Or maybe better to just buy the advertised rebuilt ones at techchoiceparts.com?Sedro Wooley AC compressor.jpg

[Rick the Quick]

For what it's worth you may want to look at the videos on You Tube that show you how to use Dust Off as a refrigerant. We have used it in Dodge Ram with excellent results. I also read an online article by SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) comparing Dust Off (named by a number 934?) to R12 and 134. It by far exceeds the performance or R12 and 134. Also worth mentioning I have been reading where 134 is on the "to be banned next" list.

[1990new]

The pictures confirms that you have the factory compressor. You should be able to use the hoses and the compressor from the aqua.
It appears that the system has not been opened on it. Since you don't know the condition of that compressor, if it were me I would do this before buying a remanufactured compressor.
Remove the components you need from the aqua. Install the compressor, get some new o rings and connect everything up. Put a vacuum on the system and then if there are no leaks, buy a couple of the $5 12 oz cans of r134a at walmart and charge the system. It might surprise you and cool OK. If it does you may be able to get a couple of years of cooling out of it before the old oil in the system and the 134a eat up the compressor. At that point I would remove all the components, flush everything, get new expansion valve and receiver/dryer, rebuilt compressor and do the job right.
If the quick fix doesn't supply cooling, you will need to do the complete system removal, flush and install new components and rebuilt compressor now.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I got everything off the 1993GL "donor." See attached photos.

Note in photo #2 that I've circled in red a fluid fitting that seems to require a wrench somewhere between 18mm (won't fit) and19mm (very loose). Anybody know what this is about?

The recipient has both hoses, so it's not a showstopper that I can't disconnect that hose from the AC radiator, but it is a bit odd.
I checked the intended recipient (which still has both hoses -- only the compressor was stolen) and find the same neither-18-nor-19 size fitting.

I also notice that the donor (1993GL) "AC radiator" has an electric fan, while neither of my AC-equipped LXs do -- I'll start a new thread to ask about this.

[WmWatt]

Your AC may have been manufactured in the USA using non-metric fittings. A non-metric wrench may fit.

[hot4dl8ly]

Sounds like a 23/32" very unusual size, maybe a pipe or adjustable wrench will work.

[1990new]

The condenser fan was on Festivas with automatic transmissions. You won't need it with the manual transmission so don't even bother trying to install it because you don't have the wiring harness or ecu controls to make it work correctly. The ac radiator behind the grille is called the condenser because that's where the decompressing gas state refrigerant starts turning back into a liquid state as it loses heat. The radiator in the AC box inside the car is called the evaporator because that's where the compressed liquid state refrigerant from the compressor turns into a gas as it evaporates and absorbs heat from inside the car. That continuous cycle must keep going to keep the inside of the car cool. The cycling off and on of the compressor is controlled by a pressure switch on the high size (small) hose and also by a thermostat inside the evaporator box (which can be adjusted by a control on bottom left side of the evaporator box.. although I'm not positive all the factory evaporator boxes had that switch).
Be very careful to get a really tight fit with wrenches on both side of the hose connections because those aluminum tubes can easily be twisted and ruined.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

WmWatt & hot4dl8ly:

11/16 won't fit and 3/4 is very loose.

I'll put the stuff in whatever I'm driving and flag down a SnapOn truck for a 23/32" test fit.

That would indeed be weird -- finding odd-size Imperial stuff on a metric car. Reminds of a long time ago when I needed a 9/64" allen wrench in the UK to remove the capstan on a 1/2" reel-to-reel computer tape drive. We ended up FedExing one across the pond from Detroit.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I don't see any 23/32" open-end wrench on SnapOn.com.

A general Google search also comes up dry; actually, its lousy search algorithm comes up with all kinds of tools with lengths of, say, 4-23/32", 6-23/32", etc. There appears to be no way to just search for '23/32"'.

[1990new]

23/32 is 18.25625 mm. I just looked to my wrenches and I don't have a 23/32 but I know I have a wrenches that fit those connections. I'll check late and let you know which wrenches that I have fit it best.

Here is a link that shows one but I would pay that for one.https://www.zoro.com/proto-open-end-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I stopped by the local Napa shop (not just store), who I'd asked some weeks ago for a quote on a new compressor incl installation.

With the parts off the donor 1993GL in the trunk, I showed one of their mechanics the problem. He claims it's 19mm, and had a SnapOn "flare nut wrench" in his hand, but not the right size. He claims it's 19mm.

So this may be the answer for $72:

https://store.snapon.com/Open-End-and-Flare-Nut-mm-19-mm-6-Point-Metric-Open-End-Flare-Nut-Wrench-P633669.aspx

I've been using the 10mm version of this tool successfully for years for brake lines, so I don't know why I didn't think of this.

1990new, I'd still like to hear what you find!

BTW, Napa told me they are licensed to use the old R12 fluid, so there wouldn't be any need to upgrade seals/hoses/etc. Interesting.

[Rick the Quick]

The Proto wrench on Amazon is $87 and on back order

https://www.zoro.com/proto-open-end-wrench-sae-2332-head-size-j3075/i/G5519917/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlfHfkZi23AIVzlcNCh3ffwjIEAQYASABEgJ_PPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

It makes the Snap On look like a bargain @ $72. You can usually find Snap On wrenches on eBay for half of the truck price. You can buy a Craftsman 19mm line wrench for online and delivered to your door for a lot less than $72....better yet buy one off eBay. Paying retail for tools sucks.