Factory A/C conversion to Dealer A/C

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

The SnapOn "flare nut" wrench is far superior to a simple open-end wrench. It "grabs" all six corners (and 5.x faces) of the nut, making it impossible to "round off" the nut.

Follow the SnapOn link and roll over the photo and you'll see. I've used the 10mm version of this tool for years on little 10mm brake line nuts and never damaged a one.


I think flare nut wrenches are also slightly tapered so you can push them on to get maximum fit.

[1990new]

Found my wrench that fits the fittings on both sides of the factory condenser.
It a 13/16 that fits. It is equivalent to 20.57 mm so if you have a 21 mm that might do just as well.
The 13/16th fits very snug, so it is perfect.

Looks like the 23/32 would be too small since it's less than 19mm and my 19mm is too small.

You can get one of them with a lifetime warranty at Home Depot for $4.19. It would be foolish to pay more for a wrench that you would rarely use.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-13...1316/202916152

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

That's very strange -- I just tried 13/16 on the condenser that came out of my parts car and it's very, very loose. Even 1/16 down from that -- 3/4 -- is quite loose. I also got identical results on two complete cars here with AC -- an 88LX and a 91GL.

Are you sure you're trying on the fitting circled in red in the attached photo I previously posted?

Perhaps we're dealing with two flavors of the condenser, where I have 3 of one flavor and you have 1 of the other?

I tracked down my local SnapOn distributor -- he'll have the $72 19mm SnapOn wrench on his truck in about a week and will call me to meet him at one of his regular stops in my area. I'll test-fit it on the subject fitting in his presence.

[1990new]

You are correct. My apologies.
I went outside in the dark last night and checked the fittings through the gill on my 89 and this morning I did a more thorough check.
Turns out my 19mm had a burr at the edge of the opening and I was trying to put it through the grille and it would not slip on the fitting.
I had to bend the center bar of the grille plastic down some to make the 13/16 fit and the reason it appeared to be snug was because the bent center grill pressed up against it when I got it on and it appeared snug.
After I filed the burr off the edge of my 19mm it does fit that fitting you have circled very snugly. I also tried it on my 1990 and it is the same.
The other end of the 13/16 wrench that I tried was a 7/8 and that is the end I was using on the other side of the condenser. It fit but was a little loose.
I measured that fitting this morning with a caliper and it is 57/64 or 22.65 mm, but that's bigger than 7/8 so my caliper must be off.
I have an old short heavy open end wrench with no marking for either head and one of the heads on that wrench is the closest to fitting that fitting and it is just a smidgen smaller than either of my 7/8 open end wrenches.

Hope this helps instead of confusing you more.

Here is a link that shows the equivalent spanner wrench sizes:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/w...on-d_1607.html

Going by the chart, my best guess is that it must be 22 mm and I don't have a 22mm spanner to check it.

[theastronaut]

A/C lines shouldn't be tightened enough to need a flare wrench, snug will do since the o-ring is doing all the sealing. I've always used adjustable wrenches when assembling/disassembling A/C lines without any problems. Disassembling a corroded or overtightened line would be the only reasons to need a flare wrench.

[1990new]

A/C lines shouldn't be tightened enough to need a flare wrench, snug will do since the o-ring is doing all the sealing. I've always used adjustable wrenches when assembling/disassembling A/C lines without any problems. Disassembling a corroded or overtightened line would be the only reasons to need a flare wrench.

Ditto that. What you do want to make sure of with these fittings is that you have good fitting wrenches on both sides of the connection when you tighten or remove so you don't twist the aluminum hoses or the side of the condenser.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

This is primarily for disassembly. Remember, these connections have likely been connected for as long as 31 years (88s manufactured in late 87), so there will always be some element of corrosion in the threads.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

1990new,

So I measured everything again and here's what I've found …

1. For the far end of the hose that attaches to the driver side of the condenser (what we've been talking about and I circled in red on my photo):
1a. On the condenser side of the connection: 19mm
1b. On the hose side of the connection: 13/16 doesn't fit, 7/8 is slightly loose ==> 22mm

2. for the far end of the other hose at the firewall:
2a. On the firewall side of the connection 13/16 doesn't fit, 7/8 is slightly loose ==> 22mm
2b. On the hose side of the connection: 1" doesn't fit, 1-1/16 is loose ==> 26mm

3. On the cylindrical thing attached to the condenser: both (metal line) connections 17mm

I don't have metric wrenches larger than 19mm (or can't find them if I do), so I can't confirm the above 22mm or 26mm conclusions (which assume that everything is "whole-mm" metric and not odd-sized 32nds or 64ths imperial).

[1990new]

OK.. I've changed all those connections several time in the last few years and now it looks like I have no idea how I got those connections off and on without rounding them off. The 1 1/16 wrench apparently comes close enough to fit the low pressure hose at the fire wall and the 7/8 on the evaporator side. I have an adjustable wrench, several sizes of channel locks and a small pipe wrench. If you have those wrenches you should be able to get the connections off and on without damaging them. The largest mm spanner I have is 24 mm and it doesn't fit any of the connections. Next size down i have is a 20.
The first time I removed the low pressure hose on one of my Festivas, I ruined the thread on the low pressure side connection to the evaporator and rounded off the hose connection fitting on the hose that connects to it. Since then, I have been very careful with the wrenches I have and haven't damaged any since.
So as long as you make some kind of wrench fit and not slip off or damage the fittings, you should be OK. Once you get them off the first time put some Anti-seize lubricant on the threads so the next time you have to remove them they will come off easily.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

It appears (per SnapOn.com) that SnapOn only offers metric double-ended flare nut wrenches in sizes 10mm (which I already have -- keep one in each location) thru 21mm. Mac only offers 8mm thru 21mm. Sears only goes to 21mm.

So I'll prob have to use a good quality crescent on the 22/26mm (or whatever they turn out to be) sizes. I think the 19mm is the most critical one since that's on the condenser itself, not just a hose. Second, 17mm for the two hose connections onto the "cylinder" -- is that what you're calling the "evaporator?"

I've got at least 3 Festies with AC, two nice LXs and a GL (that also has PS), so I might as well do this right.

[1990new]

I just went out to the garage and measured the size of the fitting connection to the evaporator core at the fire wall with my caliper.
Low side (Large hose) nut on hose 27mm (1 7/64 inch), fitting on evaporator pipe 22mm (111/128 inch).
High side (Small hose) nut on hose 17mm, fitting on evaporator pipe 14mm
I'm pretty sure the connections for the expansion valve (inside the evaporator box) are 17mm and 14mm also.
The cylinder refer to is the Receiver/Dryer. It collects moisture in the refrigerant that was generated during condensation. It prevents the moisture from
recirculating through the system. Refrigerant enters the receiver/dryer canister through the inlet tube. The heavier, oil-laden refrigerant falls to the bottom of the outlet tube near the bottom of the canister. A bleed hole, covered with a filter screen, allows a small amount of the heavier liquid refrigerant and oil mixture to reenter the suction line at a controlled rate. When the heavier liquid refrigerant and oil mixture enters the expansion valve suction line, it has an opportunity to vaporize and circulate through the evaporator and compressor without causing damage to the compressor due to refrigerant slugging.
A desiccant bag is mounted inside the receiver./dryer canister to absorb any moisture which may be in the refrigerant system. A fitting located on the top of the canister is used to attach a sight glass for checking refrigerant condition (some canisters don't have this sight glass).
The receiver/dryer should definitely be replaced with a new one whenever the system has been opened to the atmosphere. When you buy a new one, keep it sealed and make the connection to it as the last thing to add as you complete the sealing of the system.

Here is a cheap set on Amazon that would have everything you need for $30.
https://www.amazon.com/MAXPOWER-10-p...+spanner&psc=1

This 27mm gas bottle wrench is just $6.09.
https://www.amazon.com/Silverline-Ga...70_&dpSrc=srch