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Front wheel bearing.. hard to replace?

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  • Front wheel bearing.. hard to replace?

    I rly dont wanna get screwed at the dealership, and was thinking of doing it myself. Anyone have any experience with this?

  • #2
    They can be a real bitch.

    Comment


    • #3
      If you post where your from you may have a fellow member thats close to that could help or give ya a few pointers. And I second Tom.
      "Look, I have long hair, tats and smoke like a chimney.. All of my customers know it.. Don't like it? Don't turn over my rock."

      RIP DJ

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      • #4
        .. thats what I was afraid of. Im from GrandRapids, MI. I was rly hoping I didnt have to take it in. I heard it was in the ball park of 200 bucks :shock:

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        • #5
          Just had a buddy of mine help me with mine....took about an hour or so. All better now. Really wasn't that bad. Need a sacrificial socket for beating and a good flat punch. Plus all the other normal things.
          "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
          89L Silver EFI auto
          91GL Green Auto DD
          There ain't no rest for the wicked
          until we close our eyes for good.
          I will sleep when I die!
          I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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          • #6
            Archiebold,

            I collected the equipment to do it, but found that Festiva Motorsport could not only replace the bearings but the rotors as well for about $200!
            So never really did it myself.
            Procedure requires a press to disassemble and re-assemble the hub
            I was lucky enough to have a set of hubs around to send them so I didn't have to put Big Blue up on blocks for any length of time!

            Thanks for adding the your location!

            Pu241
            '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
            '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
            '92 Aqua parts Car
            '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
            '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

            "Your God of repentance will not save you.
            Your holy ghost will not save you.
            Your God plutonium will not save you.
            In fact...
            ...You will not be saved!"

            Prince of Darkness -1987

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            • #7
              A press would have made it easier but not neccessary with a little bit of strong arming from a small sledge and a socket.
              "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
              89L Silver EFI auto
              91GL Green Auto DD
              There ain't no rest for the wicked
              until we close our eyes for good.
              I will sleep when I die!
              I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

              Comment


              • #8
                A simple tool for pressing apart:
                1) Two pieces of metal 1/4" x 1" x 12" long. Drill a 3/8" hole 1" from one end on each (large enough for the lower balljoint bolt to go through).
                2) Gear puller with 2 hooks

                With the spindle off and placed with the outside face down,
                Place the pieces of metal on each side of the strut mount with the holes lining up with the lower balljoint bolt.
                Put the balljoint bolt through the holes and spindle (where it normally goes). Put nut on but do not tighten.
                At the strut end put one strut bolt back in the lower hole so that the bars are under it.
                The bars should now be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the bearing face.
                Take a large socket (I use the one I took the Axel nut off with) and put it open end down, between the two bars so that it lines up with the center of the bearing.
                Put a strut bolt into the socket, this will give you something to press against.
                Take the gear puller and place the center bolt over the socket/bolt and a hook on each side of the bars.
                Now tightening the gear puller should push the hub center out of the inner bearing.
                Then use a bearing separator or gear puller to take the outer bearing off the hub center.

                Tool to put it back together:
                12" threaded rod and several large washers

                Now if I only had a picture of this it would be clear as mud.

                But if you replace the bearings you will still need to put the correct preload spacer in.
                I haven't come up with a simple tool for that yet.
                ~Jeff
                1988 Festiva LX Silver 5speed. 219,000 miles. My new daily driver.
                1988 Festiva L Plus Red 2brl 4speed. 504,477 miles and holding till I get the speed-o fixed.
                2003 Mustang GT 5speed

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                • #9
                  what do you mean festiva motorsports will replace them? Are you talking about new hubs or actually sending in your hubs and having them redone.

                  I need to do something

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Gforcefd
                    what do you mean festiva motorsports will replace them? Are you talking about new hubs or actually sending in your hubs and having them redone.

                    I need to do something
                    I took mine to the local CarQuest machine shop and they did it for about $80 per side, parts included. Had them turn the rotors too as long as they were at it.

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                    • #11
                      Thats not bad at all Dave $80. a side , parts included .
                      That is a great deal from what I have heard from some people .
                      ------------------------------------------------
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                      • #12
                        Gforcefd,

                        Read the post closer, nothing was mentioned of FMS replacing the hubs with new ones!

                        Would have to find my receipt, but think that $200 included return shipping!
                        Got 40-50,000 miles on them and so far so good!

                        Pu241
                        '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                        '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                        '92 Aqua parts Car
                        '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                        '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                        "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                        Your holy ghost will not save you.
                        Your God plutonium will not save you.
                        In fact...
                        ...You will not be saved!"

                        Prince of Darkness -1987

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          80/side isnt bad at all... lets see.. I have one side and at 80/side.....1*80=80??? sweeet 8)

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by archiebold
                            80/side isnt bad at all... lets see.. I have one side and at 80/side.....1*80=80??? sweeet 8)
                            Do them both while you are at it. $80 * 2 = better in the long run.
                            sigpic
                            The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter

                            Link to my festiva pictures below
                            https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
                            Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.

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                            • #15
                              I bought the lowest mileage junkyard hub/bearing/spindle assembly I could find. $35 and I am back on the road. $80 sounds pretty good to have CarQuest do it. Do they set the preload up to specs?
                              91 Festiva L

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