rpikle, this thread's for YOU!!

[FestYboy]

since you decided to continue w/ solving the idle problem instea of selling (i was tthis close to saying SOLD, just needed a tow dolly) I'm starting this thread to fix your problem.

i need something from you first, and that a list of replaced parts, and if you have pics of the carb, that'd be even better.

we'll solve this conundrum, i promise.

[rpickle]

Hi Festyboy. Well, I'm a bit taken aback.... Thanks for the hand. Hope we can get 'er running.

List of things replaced:
gas tank
fuel line from tank to carb
fule filter (3 times)
fuel pump (twice)
plugs
wires
cap/rotor
carb kit twice
fusible links replaced with the plastic style
alternator belt

A litlle history. I bought this last summer. The guy said it hadn't been started in 3 years. The car had not been registered since 2000. He had the carb off. Most hoses were labeled. I rebuilt the carb and replaced some of the items listed above. The car would start and run then stall out. Found the intake screen was clogged (in the fuel tank) and the fuel line it was attached to was clogged full of crap. I wondered how it ran at all. After that, it ran great. I drove it back and forth to work for 4 months or so. On a dreary night, out of the blue, it started to loose power. Plenty of gas in tank. Nursed it to the next exit. Ended up needing a tow. Next day I tried to start it, no go. Same as previous night. It sat for 2 days. Tried it again and it ran like normal. Drove it to work for about 2 weeks. Filled it up with gas before heading out of town for a week. When I returned, it started, but after driving a short distance it started to stall at lights. I could restart, but had to really rev it to keep it going. Since the tank screen fixed the first time, I opened the tank and checked it out again. Discovered mucho rust in the gas tank. New tank, fuel lines installed, replaced filter, no change. Pulled carb and cleaned thoroughly. Reinstalled, no change. Frustration setting in.... This is where I am at.


IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/rpickle/88festycarb4.jpg[/IMG]





Thanks for your help.

Rick

[FestYboy]

d@#n that's a clean carb!!! (btw there's a pic missing due to typo)

ok, this MAY take a few days since i'm not there to do it myself, you're going to have to be my hands and eyes and ears.

start by removing the plugs to the 4 solinoids on the firewall (not the MAP sensor), then check and double check the rectangular plug near the distro. make sure the connection is clean and tight and that all points have continuity to their proper component and that those wires have continuity to the ECU. if any of the wires are dirty they won't let the engine idle, but it will fire and run off idle.

removing those plugs on the firewall only eleminates vac bleeds and emissions equiptment which isn't required to opperate the engine. (eliminates possible causes)

more likely than not, you're expierencing an electrical problem more than a mechanical problem.

BTW, did you touch the a/f screw on the back of the carb? this could contribute to the lack of idle but only by causing very poor or rough idle to the point it wants to cough out, but it will still idle for a while, not just die.

[rpickle]

No, I didn't touch that. It is still cloaked in the tube it hides in.

I'm a 3rd shifter and am about to lay down for the day. I will do as you suggest tomorrow morning. Sorry about that.

Really appreciate your help. If we get this going, I'll owe you a couple cases of Yuengling Lager!

Rick

[quaddawg]

FestyBoy is the most impressive mechanic I have conversed with yet. Not a parts replacer, but a true diagnostician....

Kudos to FB.

FestyBoy, I hope you make good money doing what you do!!

[5.0zone]

Thats PR vs DMM. Parts replacer vs Doctor of Moving Metal (hard to find these days)

[rpickle]

I pulled the plugs off of the 4 solenoids. Pulled the square plug near the dizzy apart, filed the male ends well and then squeezed the female ends together. Is a tighter fit now. While I was there, I pulled the wires off of the coil and sanded them down. Was some corrosion there. Started it up, same problem. When it first starts, it sounds good, but after a few seconds it "loads up" and starts to sputter out, unless I give some pedal. Even at higher revs it does this.

What next?

Rick

[FestYboy]

ok, it's still possibly an electrical prob... but then again, you state it "loads up" (fuel pressure?, non stock replacement?) well, let's elliminate the electrical first since you've replaces most of the mechanical already. the only thing you havent mentioned (that i've seen) is weather or not the fuel return line is clear.

anywho, under the battery, you should find the main engine harness plug. it's a PITA to get apart but we need to so that continuity can be varified to the "load controls" on the carb. if you have a factory manual or a haynes the job will go easier, and you need a DVOM (volt meter). on the square connector, all black lines are ECM controled grounds, the others are either 5 or 12v power. and on the round connector, i believe all lines are 5 or 12v ref signal.

from the square connector, pick a wire and match it to the main harness plug. with both disconnected from thier respective oppisite sex, there should be less than .3 ohms of resistance. the same goes for the small round connector at the carb. this process will take some time. the wires i'm mostly concerned with are the square plug ones.

PS: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST

[rpickle]

I did blow out the return line with an aircompressor. I could hear the comotion in the tank, so assumed it was clear.

I will pull apart the harness tomorrow. I have a Chilton manual from the library and a Fluke meter.

Appreciate your time.


Rick

Maybe a phone call so you could hear it run? I'll call you, if that sounds like a good idea.

[FestYboy]

that might not be a bad thing.... i'll pm you my #

[Tom]

Both rpickle and me are having the same problem and both have been working for months trying to solve this problem.

When I fast Idle mine by turning up the idle speed quite a bit mine is carefully driveable, otherwise at normal idle it dies when you try to go. It will rev but rev badly if you don't try to go. I'm at the end of my rope and I am an old pro.

[Fordverde]

Just a tough: did you guys check the EGR electric vacuum sensor??? You know, the one that receives the vacuum lines and the electric lines.

[Tom]

Mine will snap out of it every so often and run great. It will do this sometimes for days or weeks at a time, starting and going and hundreds of stops and goes and sometimes tanks of gas and be running perfect and I will think it's fixed and then all of a sudden it will miss a little and then worse and worse till it won't hardly run at all and is not drivable all in a few minutes time. Then I'll do everything over and over again and sometimes it will get better but usually not. I have to get towed home. More and more and then one time it's all well again and off I go until the next time. The guy befor be and now me and a couple of mechanics in between. I think that it's vapor locking from time to time and reluctantly lets the vapor lock loose now and then until it does it again. I could be totally wrong too. I like Rick have done everything and replaced everything. I haven't torn into the carb. I would swear it's not the carb but I may well be wrong.

[Tom]

Well it's deader than a doornail. I went to go to town and I started it up and it started good and idled good and ran good and I drove to the mailbox and it died on the way there. Just like somebody turned off the switch. I could tell it was more than usual. Now it does nothing. It turns over but no attemps to fire or start. Nothing. Whatever was wrong finally gave out or something new I don't know but there is no starting or driving it thats for sure. I'll check for fire at the spark plugs and coil when my neighbor comes home.

[hotrodin4me]

sounds like the modual in the disty