Festy Pic Wanted!

[nitrofarm]

the reason i ask why its so far forward is i see a huge gap in the back of the carbs... it looks TOO far forward... it looks weird...

^ X2 The axle have to be binding?????????

[chrisofna]

Anyone notice whats going on with the strut to knuckle mounting?

[mckabe]

Beautiful

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[Advancedynamix]

^ X2 The axle have to be binding?????????

Contrary to popular belief on this website, axles don't need to be inline with a good 6 ball CV joint. If you research offroad cars and buggy's you'll see some extreme axle angles being used with massive suspension movement. Moving the drive centerline forward of the hub centerline also enables the vehicle to get better traction, as it drives the wheels downward with torque. My engine is mounted almost as far forward as the car here, and I could go another 1.5" without any binding.
The CV axles actually wear more evenly when used like this as well. The worst thing you can do with a CV is apply pressure to the joint when the balls are all inline (a straight condition), this causes a divot to be worn into the grooves on the outer/inner housings by the balls. Having an angle on the joint causes pressure to be applied over a wide range of movement as the balls roll throughout their stroke. A very minute amount of power is lost (you can barely feel the loss with a finger, it's that small).

The benefits of moving an engine forward in a FWD car are amazing. the car will turn better, brake better and accelerate much better with more weight being applied to the wheels that do all the work. 50/50 wieght distribution is good for F/R, M/R, M/AWD, and certain F/AWD chassis (Audi and Subaru both use a Forward weight bias). On a FWD car, especially race car, the front tires should be laden with as much of the vehicle weight as possible.

Anyone notice whats going on with the strut to knuckle mounting?

He's accounting for the extreme strut angle, the car would have unusable negative camber if the knuckle were mounted as intended by the factory.

The engine is tipped forward to raise the diff/oupit centerline. He has moved the hub centerline almost 5 inches and is compensating for it by tipping the tranny upward since he's out of hood space.

[JoDan]

The thing that stands out the most is how he used lug nuts for the motor mount. That's just boss status.

[fastivaca]

I noticed that the gas door is shaved. I wonder how he fills up now.

[mckabe]

Probably has a fuel cell

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[Damkid]

I believe the car was originally a 4 door which got converted to a 2 door, which would most likely also be why the gas door was shaved

[BUSTIVA]

Thanks for the pics! Tons more than I had! I'm really really thinking about replicating the fender well cut, my buddy has a plasma cutter and is always down for a reason to use it lol, but, I'm still kinda iffy, but I guess no matter how bad it comes out, we could always cover it up with some flares....

[Damkid]

I believe if you cut the rear fenders, you'll need to re-weld the inner and outer fenders back together, but I'm guessing you probably knew that though lol

[nitrofarm]

Contrary to popular belief on this website, axles don't need to be inline with a good 6 ball CV joint. If you research offroad cars and buggy's you'll see some extreme axle angles being used with massive suspension movement. Moving the drive centerline forward of the hub centerline also enables the vehicle to get better traction, as it drives the wheels downward with torque. My engine is mounted almost as far forward as the car here, and I could go another 1.5" without any binding.
The CV axles actually wear more evenly when used like this as well. The worst thing you can do with a CV is apply pressure to the joint when the balls are all inline (a straight condition), this causes a divot to be worn into the grooves on the outer/inner housings by the balls. Having an angle on the joint causes pressure to be applied over a wide range of movement as the balls roll throughout their stroke. A very minute amount of power is lost (you can barely feel the loss with a finger, it's that small).

The benefits of moving an engine forward in a FWD car are amazing. the car will turn better, brake better and accelerate much better with more weight being applied to the wheels that do all the work. 50/50 wieght distribution is good for F/R, M/R, M/AWD, and certain F/AWD chassis (Audi and Subaru both use a Forward weight bias). On a FWD car, especially race car, the front tires should be laden with as much of the vehicle weight as possible.



He's accounting for the extreme strut angle, the car would have unusable negative camber if the knuckle were mounted as intended by the factory.

The engine is tipped forward to raise the diff/oupit centerline. He has moved the hub centerline almost 5 inches and is compensating for it by tipping the tranny upward since he's out of hood space.

Hey thanks for the excellent info! I understood it all except the last part.When you say he moved the hub centerline forward 5". Your saying he moved the engine forward 5".Thus moving the the centerline of the diff forward right?

[Advancedynamix]

Hey thanks for the excellent info! I understood it all except the last part.When you say he moved the hub centerline forward 5". Your saying he moved the engine forward 5".Thus moving the the centerline of the diff forward right?

Your welcome, he moved the hub ( wheel) close ( estimated) to 5 inches upwards. Basically that car looks to have close to a 5" drop. He raised the trans output centerline to match a little better by tipping the engine forward.

[Damkid]

FWIW I understood what you were saying Charlie :lol:

[BUSTIVA]

I believe if you cut the rear fenders, you'll need to re-weld the inner and outer fenders back together, but I'm guessing you probably knew that though lol

LOL Challenge accepted!

[nitrofarm]

Your welcome, he moved the hub ( wheel) close ( estimated) to 5 inches upwards. Basically that car looks to have close to a 5" drop. He raised the trans output centerline to match a little better by tipping the engine forward.

Oh Gottcha, I didnt realize you where explaining a drop & moving the engine forward also. Thanks,really good info you put out there Boss.

I've beeen tying real hard to get my axles @ straight.My chassis is tweekd on my Aspire. I had to make a motor & move the motor forward 1" on the passenger side. And I've been racking my brains trying to get the axles perfect.Thinking I was gonna prematurely wear em.But now after reading your post I can rest assured it wont.