Will a B3 head fit on a B6?

[FestYboy]

Thank you very much for the info.

The only heads I could find at the U pull yard were B3. Those engines looked exactly like the B6. I had to double check the casting stamp.

Will I find a write up here on how much to grind from the exhaust port?
Will opening the exhaust downstream have the same affect?


REMINDER: I am putting a B3 head on a B6 engine. That is backward to what you will see on this board.

I was also wondering if the cutouts in the piston will now be in the wrong place? If so, will I be safe to grind them out without cutting through?




okay, I have your word as a gentleman and a scholar?

If I put this B3 head on, do you think this B6 will run decent? What if any issues do you forsee?

have you heard or seen this done?


thanks.

yeah the head will fit w/o issue, i'm using B3 intake and exhaust on my first gen B6 head, all the mount points are the same. there's no spicific writeup about the exhaust runner, but i can tell you that there's plenty of material able to be removed before you hit a collent passage. the B3 head SHOULD give the B6 more pep down low with the higher compression and higher intake speeds at low RPMs. i also doubt any issues with valve clearance, but i WOULD use some clay and verify first.

[grey]

I really hope I dont have to go this route, but... there are no b6 heads here.

I am more concerned with performance at highway cruise speed. This 323 mazda is a 4 speed. I have never driven it, so that is a big question.

When, I say "performance" I mean a reliable passenger car.

I have never checked piston/valve clearance with clay. I assume the valves on the b3 head are in a slightly smaller circle. I could enlarge the cutouts in the pistons...or is that a bad idea?

Thanks for the information.

I didnt look at what year the Festiva's were. I know the were single cam B3 with fuel injection. I think the distributor was different, though.

Will the mazda dizzy fit on the ford cam shaft?




Refresh:

I have an 88 B6 with a warped head. I have to use a B3 head .

[FestYboy]

highway performance shouldn't change.

don't attempt to cut the pistons, not worth the headache. checking with clay is easy. torque the head down (with head gasket), install the timing belt and have a pair of valves installed in the head. then carefuly rotate the crank 720*. i say carefuly because you should be able to do it by hand (with a breaker bar) and if you feel any resistance (rotation stops) then you've touched a valve. if you can complete the 720* then you pull the head and inspect the clay with a micrometer. you only need a nickle sized ball ov clay for each valve.

the dizzy will fit w/o modification

[funky technician]

i ran a b6 head on a b3 block for a year, you should think of shaving the head a bit to regain the compression loss, but it worked fine, and there was actually no carbon build up around the "shelf" created on the top of the block whn i eventually pulled it off, i used the b6 head gasket also

[funky technician]

sorry, just finished reading that your doing the oposite, should still work, also use the b6 gasket, I think you'll be fine though, your motor will have no top end with this setup, but will have similar low RPM torque (possible improvement of low RPM torque even)

[grey]

First, what does "top end" mean exactly?


I have been trying to decide what to do.... whether to use the warped b6 head that came with the car. It is back in decent shape now. Got the valves to fully seal anyway.

A proffessional shop had said the b6 head was no good. (heard this from the guy who sold me the car) I dont know why they said that. I have cleaned it up and "inspected" as best I can. If there is a crack, I dont know how to find it. They had not cleaned the gasket off, so whatever they saw is something besides the warpage.

[grey]

Also, I dont want to pull parts off that B3 at the junkers...I might later want to buy the whole thing!

[FestYboy]

"top end" the upper RPM range of an engine, usualy relating to the performance within that range. "not having top end" = no pulling power past 4000 rpm. the engine will continue to rev up but it will do so at a slower pace.

if the head is warped past a certain point, it's considered BAD. just pull the B3 head and slap it down on the B6 block with a B6 head gasket.

[grey]

Yes I have the FSM spec, and it looks to me like it is at the limit to correct the warp plus a little more to get the fire ring dents smooth. (My measures are only a little better than nothing)

I can spin the cam shaft easy

Do the B3 and B6 share the same cam shaft? Have these been interchanged by anyone ? Also, HLA's?

[grey]

Do the B3 and B6 share the same cam shaft? Have these been interchanged by anyone ? Also, HLA's?

The B3E is not shown at

http://www.protegefaq.net/engine.html#B3-E

Maybe you have seen the specs foe B3 in the FSM or posted here?


B6E Valve Timing

Cam base circle


Intake duration
244° @ 0.003"

Intake opening
14° BTDC

Intake closing
50° ABDC

Intake lobe height
36.451mm (1.4351")

Intake valve lift


Exhaust duration
244° @ 0.003"

Exhaust opening
52° BBDC

Exhaust closing
12° ATDC

Exhaust lobe height
36.451mm (1.4351")
Exhaust valve lift
====
Valve overlap
26°


The B3E is not shown at