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  • torque steer

    Does anyone who has done an engine swap have this problem and if so is there a cure for it.
    mine is very bad and keeps me on my toes all the time.
    Anything for a Festiva:thumbup::thumbright:

  • #2
    Yea mines better then when I had stock suspension but still something u have to be prepared for when driving the car. I would imagine getting a half shaft of some sort would help . I'd like a festy fanny with a shaft
    93 L B6T DD http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=37751
    RIP_90 LuX http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=32249
    RIP 88 LX / B8-MEhttp://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26398

    RJ

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    • #3
      Hey WC... you coming to Westiva???
      Ian
      Calgary AB, Canada
      93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
      59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

      "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

      Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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      • #4
        get it aligned. if your alignment or toe is out, it will walk all over the road under heavy acceleration

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        • #5
          soften the front suspension and stiffen the rear

          1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by wcbarker View Post
            Does anyone who has done an engine swap have this problem and if so is there a cure for it.
            mine is very bad and keeps me on my toes all the time.
            Torque steer is caused by the unequal angle between the LH and RH CV shafts. From what I understand, that is the reason the early FWD cars suffered severe torque steer. Eventually, manufacturers started going with a half shaft on higher output applications (like on a B6T/BP with a G25). The more torque, the worse the problem. In theory, if you can get the trans output positioned as close to being in-line with the wheel hubs, the better off you'll be.
            Brian

            93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
            04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
            62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

            1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
            Not enough time or money for any of them

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            • #7
              torq steer !!! lol , turbo and small cars with low $$$ suspension geometry = normal

              300+ hp in aspire ... lol

              my new car .... focus turbo ... 300-320hp... crazy to drive

              yvan

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              • #8
                I highly doubt your aspire had 300+ hp, even with the mods you had listed. Maybe at the crank but not at the wheels.
                89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
                94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
                2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
                1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit

                Facebook Me!

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                • #9
                  Mine drove straight as an arrow. Even with the festy trans. Mines got fms springs and a redneck alignment.
                  -Greg
                  Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
                  BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
                  Redneck Engineer
                  FOTY - '09
                  5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

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                  • #10
                    Yeah just something that comes with a tiny car and 150+ hp. My car was all over the road under boost, although it was never aligned. Makes it alot more fun to drive tho imo.

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                    • #11
                      okok not 300hp but 21 psi, bp, 3 in exhaust , stand alone ecu ... bbahhhhhh



                      yvan
                      Last edited by yvanlavoie20; 03-21-2010, 10:30 PM. Reason: keep it simple and stupid. KISS

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                      • #12
                        actually, it's not the length that matters, it's the ANGLE... it just so happens that the shorter axle typicaly has a steeper angle between trans and knuckle than the long axle does. equalize the angles and things should improve.
                        Trees aren't kind to me...

                        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                        • #13
                          Well, I still have the 1.3 and have some torque steer after an alignment! I lowered the car by cutting 1.5 coils off the front springs and have FMS rear springs. All the struts are KYS gr2s. When I lowered the car, I set the toe in (negative) using the string method. The car drove nicely but had a some steering wheel wobble between 50 and 60 mph and the inside of the tires was wearing faster. Took the car for an alignment and it showed that the toe was -0.65 degrees on each side. They adjusted it to be +0.2 degrees I believe. Now the car pulls left under full acceleration and to the right when I let go of the gas pedal at higher rpms. They even did a thrust alignment. Is this normal? I'm thinking of going back to a slight toe in.
                          Oscar

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                            actually, it's not the length that matters, it's the ANGLE... it just so happens that the shorter axle typicaly has a steeper angle between trans and knuckle than the long axle does. equalize the angles and things should improve.
                            That's exactly right. The purpose behind the mid-shaft is equalize the length of each CV shaft, thereby equalizing the angle. Like I said, if you can reposition the output of the transaxle so it is on the same axis as the wheel hubs (or at least closer) it should help. Although, by changing position you also change (shorten in this case) the required length.
                            Brian

                            93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                            04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                            62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                            1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                            Not enough time or money for any of them

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Fastivaca Sorry man going fishing in alaska that week, dam sure would like to go to one of these meetings and see some faces
                              Anything for a Festiva:thumbup::thumbright:

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