Yea mines better then when I had stock suspension but still something u have to be prepared for when driving the car. I would imagine getting a half shaft of some sort would help . I'd like a festy fanny with a shaft
Ian
Calgary AB, Canada
93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite
"It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)
Does anyone who has done an engine swap have this problem and if so is there a cure for it.
mine is very bad and keeps me on my toes all the time.
Torque steer is caused by the unequal angle between the LH and RH CV shafts. From what I understand, that is the reason the early FWD cars suffered severe torque steer. Eventually, manufacturers started going with a half shaft on higher output applications (like on a B6T/BP with a G25). The more torque, the worse the problem. In theory, if you can get the trans output positioned as close to being in-line with the wheel hubs, the better off you'll be.
I highly doubt your aspire had 300+ hp, even with the mods you had listed. Maybe at the crank but not at the wheels.
89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit
Yeah just something that comes with a tiny car and 150+ hp. My car was all over the road under boost, although it was never aligned. Makes it alot more fun to drive tho imo.
actually, it's not the length that matters, it's the ANGLE... it just so happens that the shorter axle typicaly has a steeper angle between trans and knuckle than the long axle does. equalize the angles and things should improve.
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
Well, I still have the 1.3 and have some torque steer after an alignment! I lowered the car by cutting 1.5 coils off the front springs and have FMS rear springs. All the struts are KYS gr2s. When I lowered the car, I set the toe in (negative) using the string method. The car drove nicely but had a some steering wheel wobble between 50 and 60 mph and the inside of the tires was wearing faster. Took the car for an alignment and it showed that the toe was -0.65 degrees on each side. They adjusted it to be +0.2 degrees I believe. Now the car pulls left under full acceleration and to the right when I let go of the gas pedal at higher rpms. They even did a thrust alignment. Is this normal? I'm thinking of going back to a slight toe in.
actually, it's not the length that matters, it's the ANGLE... it just so happens that the shorter axle typicaly has a steeper angle between trans and knuckle than the long axle does. equalize the angles and things should improve.
That's exactly right. The purpose behind the mid-shaft is equalize the length of each CV shaft, thereby equalizing the angle. Like I said, if you can reposition the output of the transaxle so it is on the same axis as the wheel hubs (or at least closer) it should help. Although, by changing position you also change (shorten in this case) the required length.
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