wudddup 1.5L twin cam turbo frankenstien mazda motor!!

[getnpsi]

The z5 guys get shot down over there and just are told to sell the car if it runs well and get another one...or do a complete swap. I haven't seen too many work with what they have. the z5 and the 1.6 16v put down very similar numbers on paper n/a form...i guess the z5 revs higher. you dont always need to rev if you are boosting. I do wonder exactly what the importers have in their warehouses...lot of variants

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Z_engine not that wiki is perfectly accurate.

[festyfreak39]

The z5 guys get shot down over there and just are told to sell the car if it runs well and get another one...or do a complete swap. I haven't seen too many work with what they have. the z5 and the 1.6 16v put down very similar numbers on paper n/a form...i guess the z5 revs higher. you dont always need to rev if you are boosting. I do wonder exactly what the importers have in their warehouses...lot of variants

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Z_engine not that wiki is perfectly accurate.

the z5 is a dog, ill be able to take lots of pics tomo, i finished all my homework tonight...

the z5's valves are so so so so tiny i swear my lawnmower has bigger valves its rediculous, the head is really goofy looking and complex. i think this thing was made for fuel economy and absolutley nothing else. The thing that intriques me is that the bottom end is bulit much lighter then any normal mazda motor, the rods are super skinny and the crank is super light. As for how much boost it can handle, its a mazda so it can handle alot, yet everything is so light weight so it will make more power.

thats why z5 guys will be interested with this.. with a mx3 top end they could bolt turbo stuff to their motor without changing sensors and make good power for a dd car.

[DON SVO]

... The thing that intriques me is that the bottom end is bulit much lighter then any normal mazda motor, the rods are super skinny and the crank is super light. As for how much boost it can handle, its a mazda so it can handle alot, yet everything is so light weight so it will make more power.

just remember that when a car typically vomits a rod, it's because of detonation. Most rods can handle a fair share of horsepower, just don't detonate at the torque peak

[getnpsi]

What power threshold are you trying to pop into? It's going to take careful careful planning if you want to embarrass a BP+t, and who knows what would let go first. Since a lot of these engines people sell are actually low miles I don't see rod bolts letting go, it's going to be all in the tune. Next is what compression ratio is acheived fastening a mx-3 head unmodified? If it drops it below 9:1 you have a lot of built in insurance which again, awesome.

[festyfreak39]

just remember that when a car typically vomits a rod, it's because of detonation. Most rods can handle a fair share of horsepower, just don't detonate at the torque peak

hmmm interesting point! well i got a wideband and a linear rising rate baller FMU from begi so im going to have to tune carefully with that. maybe later get megasquirt but meh, thats a whiles away!

[festyfreak39]

here is my other thread where i tired to put DOHC head on a SOHC block...

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?p=407074#post407074

my new thought is.... if the 1.5L motor works, why couldnt the SOHC block work to? i already put a head on the 1.5L block and it turns, im going to go get some play dough and take some pics after school today, even though the valve releases dont match up im going to end the speculation once and for all

maybe it is very possible to put a DOHC head on a SOHC block 1.6 Block, z5 block etc etc.

and if im wrong it will be a good thread to sticky with pics so people dont have to think about it in the future and experiment themselves

[getnpsi]

Yes thank you 10 times over for having the parts in front of you to try it out. Now it's going to be a long adventure to buy a junkyard engine. Pulling the head /intake off a different car and the block out of a newer protege and half assembling it to make it one engine when you check out LOL. (Yes, many of us have done this type of stuff before)

I think the dohc goes on the sohc block but the valve reliefs are wrong as stated in your thread. What do the piston tops look like on a z5? That's a lotta skips to step, money and time savings if they are the same piston shape and design.

[getnpsi]

poking around on club protege this looks to be a running example, youve probably seen this:

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20380&highlight=mx-3+head+1.5

a lot of mumbo jumbo because they are worried about using the z5 harness which we are going to ignore. Just want the heavy pieces to work beacuse we'd be wiring a festiva swap like a b6t anyway, it's just the shortblock we need.

[festyfreak39]

poking around on club protege this looks to be a running example, youve probably seen this:

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20380&highlight=mx-3+head+1.5

a lot of mumbo jumbo because they are worried about using the z5 harness which we are going to ignore. Just want the heavy pieces to work beacuse we'd be wiring a festiva swap like a b6t anyway, it's just the shortblock we need.

yessir i have that thread, i think i may have linked it in my first post..

well i bough some playdough, girl at toys r us was subtly trying to ask me what i was using it for so i told her i was hungry,

all the parts are infront of me so why not dbunk it for good.

[festyfreak39]

ok so here is what i figured out:

The SOHC b6 block and the DOHC miata will NOT WORK... i put it together put a timing belt on it and the engine would not spin, the intake valve hit the piston..

However the z5 block WILL WORK with a miata/b6T head... i put them together, spun the engine and it worked beauituflly, i put playdough on the tops of the pistons and there is plenty of clearance between the intake valves and the head to work togehter great..

Here is the miata head, the valves are bigger than on the z5 head below



Picture of the z5 block... looks familiar hey? only the bore is a bit smaller.. thats okay though it will still work



and lastly, here is a pic of the tester miata top end and the z5 bottom end

[festyfreak39]

So if this works ill be pretty happy, and im hoping its quick... the bottom end of this engine looks super super light weight the rods and crank are half the size of a bone stock miata's. Im willing to bet if someone bought an aluminum Z5 from japan and punched it out with some aftermarket high comp/ 1.7 pistons and put a worked miata head on, it would make some redonkulous hp and be super light weight.

Some Cleaning

some more cleaning


more cleaning to be done


and paint is where i left off for the day.. yahh i know i missed a couple spots but second coat is going on tomo

[getnpsi]

So its a Japanese z5 if the block isn't rusting? Easy enough LOL. There are many many importers here on the west coast, and I know there are a lot in Canada too. Are you just going to slap it together or take it to a machine shop for any reason? Question being-- can you get a compression ratio figure from what you have at your house? I guess there is a way to do it if you know the volume of the z5 head vs the b6t right?

[festyfreak39]

So its a Japanese z5 if the block isn't rusting? Easy enough LOL. There are many many importers here on the west coast, and I know there are a lot in Canada too. Are you just going to slap it together or take it to a machine shop for any reason? Question being-- can you get a compression ratio figure from what you have at your house? I guess there is a way to do it if you know the volume of the z5 head vs the b6t right?

im also curious if i can determine a compression ratio, although i dont think i have the math skills to figure it out

[thered56]

I was curious as to the compression ratio also. I'm guessing it's going to be lower. Do you have, or can you take, a shot of the z5 head (upside down) just for a visual.

[sketchman]

I can tell you how I'd do a rough measurement to ballpark it.

Lock #1 piston at TDC with the head off. Pull the cams or put them in position for compression on #1. Set a ball of playdough on the piston and set the head on it with the gasket in place as if you were going to assemble the engine. Then torque it down slowly and let the excess dough ooze out as you go.

When it's torqued, pull the head again, and roll the dough into as perfect of a ball as you can. Measure the width of it and formula for volume of a sphere is "4/3pi x radius of sphere cubed".

Now take the bore and stroke and calculate cylinder volume with "pi x radius of bore squared x length of stroke".

Then just divide cylinder volume at BDC by the cylinder volume at TDC(the volume of that ball of dough) and that's it. Rough compression ratio is the number you end up with or x.x:1.