here's a windshield washer pump I bought off Amazon. I'll be running two of these in series for enhanced pressure capability. I've practiced running them on my pulse width mod circuit and it seems very functional. Progressive water injection here we come. I'll add pic later of flow through a single misting nozzle at different pulse width mod duty cycle. In case you are wondering. The foggy color that the power wires are running into is epoxy. Instead of finding a connector. Now it's connector is water proof. Does anyone know if windshield washer pumps get submerged in the fluid?
I'll perform some long term mid pressure runs in my laboratory, read kitchen, to see if temps get high. And to get some general flow rate numbers. Right now I'm planning on running a mister nozzle for cylinder one and two and another for three and four. I'm deathly afraid of clogging. But with distilled water and an inline filter I should be ok, right? This is going to be very direct port injection styled. It'll be in my new intake manifold once it gets completed, so I don't want to have to tear it back apart if I have a nozzle clog.
I've seen full 12v DC "systems" (meaning the batteries, wiring, and motor) working under water without issue. Don't know how long it would last, but like you said with distilled water it should have nothing but water in it. Add a TINY bit of washer fluid or something alcohol and I bet there's no chance of corrosion.
No experience with this so I don't know about the clogging thing. Ever seen those marine glass body fuel filters at wal-mart? They use a metal screen and screw together, so it would be reusable and should catch anything big enough to clog the nozzle.
So I have this whole progressive water injection thing all planned out. It involves an in tank float valve. And a remote big tank in the trunk. Doing some machine work tomorrow. I should have more goodies for pictures then.
Right now the plenum volume is sitting at 125% of the engine displacement. It still needs a 45 degree bend to go to a throttle plate, and the other side will be recessed inside a bit, so that'll negate some volume. I'm expecting maybe 110cu inch when it's all said and done. This is still a no weld project. I'll be mating all critical surfaces with epoxy. Since no egr or coolant is running anywhere close, I can expect this piece to stay ambient under hood temp, or less, right? Drawing air through it should have a nice cooling effect so I don't need to worry about metal expansion and the epoxy not expanding. Any inputs?
A few pages back you mentioned bolting this together, no welding.
Get yourself some HYLOMAR, it's a sealing compound used on machined metal to metal surfaces where no gasket is used. Land rover/rolls royce/jaguar use it on their intake manifolds, from plenum to base. It's about 14 bucks a tube (toothpaste size) and works well.
You can also use anaerobic gasket maker. Same deal as the Hylomar AFAIK. Zero clearance fit, and seals very well. Chrysler uses/used it on Neon gearbox to bellhousing joints. I've used it on lots of things. Water pump to block, T-stat housing to head, throttle body to IM. Never failed on anything, and it's cheap and available at the parts store.
Comment