Engine reassembly questions

[TWFodor]

I know my 16v SOHC swap took the stock Festiva dist just fine.

This is weird.

Check the part # on the dist and compare it to ones on rockauto to see which you have. I just looked and the BP01 is DOHC as far as I can tell, and the SOHC is not. I think.

From what I see on Rockauto, the stock 1991 Festiva distributor is a BP01. It also looks like its the same distributor for a 90-94 Mazda 323.

Here's another Ebay listing with what looks like the exact same distributor I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-94-MAZDA-323-DISTRIBUTOR-T2T52371-BP01-R4-/191088881572

[Meepersly]

Best I can say is try a diff distributor

[TWFodor]

I'm going to go to the pick-n-pull on lunch today and I'll look at a few other B6 16V (I believe I saw a mx-3) and see if their camshaft/distributor attachment looks the same @ TDC. If so, I'll get the distributor for said car.

[Meepersly]

If not then maybe your can gear isn't straight on the can. I think I read somewhere that the pin can bend?

[TWFodor]

Well I just got back from the pick-n-pull and I got the distributor for a Mx-3. I turned the camshaft until TDC and took a peek at the input for the distributor and it matched up perfectly with how mine is. Part number B3F5. I sure hope it works!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4363299&cc=1191260&jnid=604&jpid=0

I ended up getting a Fuel pump circuit relay, both door panels to match my interior (straight blue stripe, LX?) and the distributor for $50.

I got berated for pulling the distributor though. The guy said "What if someone wanted that motor? Now we can't sell it." (Apparently they do not sell distributors separately. I believe they should have that posted somewhere obvious) I told him the car said "bad motor" on it but he insisted that it ran. Whatever, its mine now.

[Meepersly]

Wow that looks a lot like a b3 efi distributor. Its funny the trouble people give others due to some inconvenience. I'm happy with the place I go to they are flexible on prices sometimes and charge very little for parts. Engine is $125

[TWFodor]

It all depends on who you check out with where I go, which is largely reliant on who is available at the time. I believe either way the distributor would have gotten some flak, but the guy that checked me out is one I tend to avoid. The other guy I believe is the owner (or manager, I'm not sure) and is far more reasonable, and tends to give better prices. So far the majority of my visits there have been pleasant. This was just an exception, and it wasn't too bad. I feel I got a fair deal.

That's a great deal for an engine. Is that bare block and head or is everything else included?

[william]

I think 50 for what you got was a good deal it's 35 for a disty before core here.
Can't believe he said something about not being able to sell the engine lol. If someone needed that engine for a car that blew up I would assume there's had a good distributor when it quit.

[TWFodor]

Finally a good update!

The new (used) distributor from the mx-3 works great! The car started up without having to adjust the distributor to extremes. Just had to adjust the ignition timing a bit. Car runs good.

The exhaust pipe below the manifold no longer was red hot, but then again it was light out when I ran the car this time. I think it was because the timing was so wacky with the other distributor, unless someone else has another explanation? I'll start it up tonight when its dark and post another update about it. I think either way I'm going to cut the cat out to get better exhaust flow.

Now the only issue left (so far) is the fuel pump not working. I need to get the new relay put in (easier said than done) and test it again.

The temperature gauge no longer goes up to High immediately after turning the car to "ON". I checked the temp gauge sender and the tang was bent a little. I straightened it out and it seems to be working normally now.

Hopefully no new issues come up.

[Meepersly]

Awesome to hear

[Flyin4stroke]

Number 1 piston should be at top dead center and distributor points to the number 1 plug. You won't get fuel without a air flow meter to pull the flapper open and turn on the fuel pump.

[TWFodor]

The exhaust did not get red hot last night and I ran it for longer than I have before, but it seems like the car is only running on 3 cylinders. I put my hand by the tail pipe and there seemed to be a gap in the exhaust. Strange, any other time I started it, the car ran fine. The plugs are brand new, maybe its the distributor cap? Perhaps there is oil or other gunk covering the terminal on the cap. Any other suggestions?

[Meepersly]

That and double check your wires. One popped off my distributor while driving once. If they are used cables check to make sure they have the clips in them. That has happened to me before. A clip came out of one of my cables while I was replacing them. Thankfully I was replacing them.

[Movin]

With the car idling pull a plug wire back a little from the cap and look for spark. Touch the spark with a test light to see if the cylinder was running. Try to keep your fingers a safe distance from the spark. Repeat until you identify which cylinder is dead. Swap plugs to see if the missing follows the plug. Swap wires, same idea. If the original cylinder is still missing check compression, look for a vacuum leak on tha cylinder etc.

[TWFodor]

I do not get it! Back to square one. This car is beginning to test my patience.

So this is what happened. I tried starting the car yesterday after I got home and behold, it started! But wait. It ran like garbage. It shuddered, choked, coughed and just about died several times. I decided that this isn't going anywhere, so I shut it off.
I checked the timing and made sure all the spark plug wires had solid connections. Everything checked out. Oh and now the temp gauge is reading high whenever the key is turned to the "ON" position again. I checked the sender and it was plugged in. Not sure why its acting up again. I'll probably need a new one.

So, after checking everything, I tried starting the car again, and it was not having any part of it. It would crank a few times then STOP suddenly, start cranking again and then STOP, and just repeat this process. This leads me to believe timing, but everything was lined up to TDC. The distributor was set to fire at #1 so I know that's alright. I think I'm going to swap the cap from my other distributor to the one from the Mx-3 and see if that helps. The one from the Mx-3 looks a little worn.

Another thing I noticed: (Sorry the outlining is very faint!) Its surrounding the vacuum line up at the top

This vacuum line is NOT hooked up to anything, nor can I find anything to hook it up to. It is just laying there. The line from the canister is plugged in but not the other one. Also, I have a few wires that are not hooked up. One is green that branches off of the main harness around where the distributor is. The other one is a thicker wire that's supposed to hook up to a metal clip that is on the front of the head on the driver's side. Looks like a ground wire. Any suggestions on what any of this stuff is? I'm still waiting for the guy I bought the car from to send me the Haynes manual I bought from him, otherwise I'd look it up.

Thanks for stickin' with me guys.