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  • b6t + G series

    Ok so I'm needing some advice.
    My current festiva has a b6d that I rebuilt a few years ago it runs great but still has low compression and smokes a bit on startup.
    I'm told this was do to me using aftermarket rings as they where on the outer limits of specks of the rig endgap.
    Have a junk yard b6t here that looks to be in good shape .
    I'm wanting to go turbo with either the b6t with fresh gaskets or rering the b6d and swap over the turbo bits . The b6d is long nose and the t is short. I'm not looking for anything crazy I would like to make about 180 hp would like to keep the engine and turbo all stock just want reliable.
    So I guess my biggest question is how do I tell if the junk yard b6t is to the task .
    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    I found the best thing for them is to rip them down and clean everything . DO NOT replace the rings . Don't touch the cylinder walls . Replace bearings if needed and all gaskets .
    You can not buy better rings then they come with stock .
    New build on the way .

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    • #3
      ^ do you know of a company that sells a complete gasket set that is worth buying? I got a somewhat complete kit off ebay a few years ago and it didn't last long and all the head gaskets where different even the valve cover gasket didn't work.
      When I rebuilt my b6d I got the gaskets from autozone (felpro) but likely payed much more then a complete kit.

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      • #4
        I believe mazda still sells a complete gasket set for a 1.6 miata. Most of the gaskets are interchangeable with the b6t.
        Better Than Nothing Racing

        Way too many cars

        :woc:

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        • #5
          Thanks I'll have to check I was going to at work but I have to hAve a vin number to order anything from our mazda suplyer.

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          • #6
            My suggestion is to bolt a starter up the the engine and use a jump box or cables and do an out of car compression test. It can get a bit sketchy, but it's much faster then tearing it apart for nothing.
            Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!

            Dennis
            93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
            91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
            93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
            15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
            88 Dakota tow pig

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            • #7
              Originally posted by shadetree View Post
              I found the best thing for them is to rip them down and clean everything . DO NOT replace the rings . Don't touch the cylinder walls . Replace bearings if needed and all gaskets .
              You can not buy better rings then they come with stock .
              I just rebuilt my bottom end this weekend. Reused the rings, but honed the bores for a bit. Had a nice pattern when done. Why you no like hone?

              Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                I just look up the mazda part number online then go through work and get it from the local mazda dealer at cost.

                This has the piston ring part numbers
                http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...category=20232

                This has the gasket set numbers.
                http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...category=20232
                Better Than Nothing Racing

                Way too many cars

                :woc:

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                • #9
                  Thank you all for the suggestions.

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                  • #10
                    You can put your big nosed crank in the b6t. Like Shadetree said, carefully clean everything and put the rings back in exactly as they came out. I've had decent luck with a quick cylinder deglaze with a ball hone, but it only takes a few quick strokes. You don't want to remove much material.
                    The best gaskets I've found for these engines (aside from the factory Mazda gaskets) are fel-pro. ACL bearings seem to be pretty good.
                    I've noticed that these engines use oil if the valve guides are worn. Low mileage (under 120k) engines that have been maintained usually have good guides, but higher mileage engines or engines that haven't been maintained will use oil. Good quality valve seals are important. I've had bad luck with supertech valve seals. Stick with OEM valve seals.
                    Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the help.
                      I believe I'll keep my b6d all together for a backup engine.
                      The small nose crank won't be a problem at my goeled power levels will it?
                      I'm pretty clueless when it comes to head work is there anyway to check the valve guides? I believe the b6t had 117k on it when pulled from the yard the clutch was junk so I'm hoping that's the reason it was in the junkyard. The turbo and intake track are spotless no oil or excessive carbon buildup so I'm hoping it will be a good engine for a while.

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                      • #12
                        We see it all the time here, why heck is this car in this wrecking yard. First we look for the obvious signs..rust, wrecked, visual inspection under the cam cover. Sometimes the only thing we can say is they were just a dealer trade in that hit the auctions and the wreckers pick them up for dismantle. B6t's are stout motors and 117k on it is not that bad. It will all depend on how it was taken care of. First pull off the cam cover and see what that looks like. Golden is good, and black not so good. Then you can pull the oil pan and check bearing clearances. These are 2 noninvasive ways to get a grip on what you have. Charlie and I frequently find good motors and G series trannies...mostly when we are not looking for them.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by azgtx View Post
                          We see it all the time here, why heck is this car in this wrecking yard. First we look for the obvious signs..rust, wrecked, visual inspection under the cam cover. Sometimes the only thing we can say is they were just a dealer trade in that hit the auctions and the wreckers pick them up for dismantle. B6t's are stout motors and 117k on it is not that bad. It will all depend on how it was taken care of. First pull off the cam cover and see what that looks like. Golden is good, and black not so good. Then you can pull the oil pan and check bearing clearances. These are 2 noninvasive ways to get a grip on what you have. Charlie and I frequently find good motors and G series trannies...mostly when we are not looking for them.
                          How exactly do you check bearing clearances from just pulling the oil pan? Just a wiggle on the rod to see how much it moves?

                          Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                          • #14



                            Haven't pulled the pan yet.
                            Last edited by william; 06-16-2016, 09:18 AM.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bhearts View Post
                              How exactly do you check bearing clearances from just pulling the oil pan? Just a wiggle on the rod to see how much it moves?

                              Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
                              Pull bearing caps and use plastigauge.

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