There was a kit at goodwill today for 10 bucks unopened I may go buy it just because and if it's no good I'll probably end up getting one from ebay or sasquatch
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Nancy- 1.8L BP, aspire swap, g-trans
The Adventures of Nancy! Build Thread
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My Musica! Click me!
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i got some locks out of the local jy and have them hooked up, but i have no idea what kind of switch i need since the lock need + on one wire and - on the other to lock, and - on one wire and + on the other to unlock. i got them working by hooking them up straight to the battery but i think a switch would be a lot more manageable.
any ideas on a switch? the lock switch i got from the car only has 3 wires and i cant figure out how to get it working, i think it was hooked up to a computer or something else to control the locks
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wow, this is awesome, didnt some overseas aspires/2nd gen festiva's have power locks and windows as an option? also, I want to know where one can find all these old Ford dealer upgrade kits?1997 Ford Aspire, MTX, Teal, B3E - "Trusty"
1997 Ford Aspire, MTX, Red, B3E - "Eggy" (RIP)
1989 Ford Festiva LX, ATX, Maroon, B3E - "TBK" (RIP)
1991 Ford Festiva GL, ATX, Red, B3E - "Festiva GT" (RIP)
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Ebay most likely source for the oddball oveseas options. And again Ebay is probably going to be the best bet for dealer upgrades.Search Master - Honorary Member of Midwest Festiva Inc., Gulf Coast Chapter
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
- Unknown
I don't like superstitious people. They're bad luck. - Serge A. Storms
If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style.
- Quentin Crisp
God, please save me from your followers!
- Bumper Sticker
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disappointed
The Protege rear door actuators I got from the junk yard today are 60mm on centre. The actuators that came with the Ford power door lock kit are 100mm on centre. The depressions in the Festiva door are 70mm on centre. I can't believe that there is nothing standard. I now have to search for an actuator mounting bracket to match, otherwise the door panel will not fit. I sure hope I don't have to fab my own mounting brackets. First I will search for a Protege LX with the front actuators intact. Maybe they fit?
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70mm O/C studs
I have been searching for an actuator mounting bracket with studs 70mm on center. I have not had much luck. That is a strange spacing on the Festiva door. I eyeballed my Mazda MPV rear hatch actuator and guess what? the studs are 70mm on center! However, there are two problems.
1) the studs are not in line with the edge of the bracket, so it would have to be tipped.
2) there isn't a L/H bracket. There would have be a different length actuator rod because the second bracket would have to be flipped upside down (and it is not symmetrical)
Next step, to drill holes for the studs and mount the actuator
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integral actuator
Some Mazda latches have an integral actuator.
Examples are Mazda MPV and Protege.
I drilled out the face plate off of a Festiva door latch and took it to the junk yard with me to line up the mounting holes and the slot. I found that the exact same face plate was used on the 92 Protege front door. Now I just have to find another DX when it comes in. I have yet to see if the 91 MPV latch has a similar face plate.Last edited by bravekozak; 11-17-2010, 07:47 PM.
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For all that work would be cheaper and easier to just get a kit... well unless you have free access to a junkyard. I may get the 2 door kit, keyless entry and trunk release next spring from this place... Might get it sooner if I have lock problems this year. Might be able to substitute the universal truck popper switch with one from the RX7.
91 rusty Festiva 260k
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^ thats the kit i bought... works good exept for if you left the remote in your pocket it would open the doors cause your pants would hit the button lol... i later got a diffrent remote system (also from princess auto) and wired that up, it has a switch that i could turn off the remote so it wouldnt send out any signals untill i turned it back on and it also had other outputs so i hooked one up to my air horn so i could find my car in the parking lot, and to scare people
Mike, AKA the sasquatch
1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...
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I bought a power lock relay from an RX-7.
There are six wires going into the relay.
I don't have a lockout switch. Just one switch for open/close on the dash. Does that mean I just have to connect the green/red to ground and just leave the green/yellow unconnected?
The connector layout is typical. Terminal 1 (Light Green) is power in, with the ground immediately below it.
The next two ( G/R and G/Y), I believe are for the lockout switch.
The last two (red and green wires are what mazda typically uses for their power door lock wire colors.
I will look for a single mounting bracket at the junk yard.
We need some good online manuals like Rotaryheads.Last edited by bravekozak; 02-19-2011, 05:48 PM.
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The RX-7 power window switches look very similar to the UK pride switches in the armrests.
The exception is that the Pride does not have the window lockout switch.Last edited by bravekozak; 02-19-2011, 06:26 PM.
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Originally posted by bravekozak View PostThe RX-7 power window switches look very similar to the UK pride switches in the armrests.
The exception is that the Pride does not have the window lockout switch.Last edited by stefan; 02-19-2011, 06:53 PM.89SX funtop! Fully loaded!
RIP 90LX
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