Power window upgrade

[bravekozak]

You are talking about the belt moldings. The glass is supposed to go up and down smoothly between them. After twenty years, the flock rubs off, the rubber gets hard and it's very difficult to crank the windows up and down. Sometimes the crank mechanism fails due to the high torque. This isn't the best picture, but it gives you an idea.

[1990new]

You may also need the the nylon grommets that the screws go thru in the window. They have a little ledge on them that go under the window that breaks off over time. I believe bravekozak ordered a bunch of them and may still have some.

[bravekozak]

I have four left, but they are spoken for. I just can't remember who they were for. I am going to have to carefully read over the hundreds of emails in my inbox line by line.

[bravekozak]

Even though I have new grommets for the door window glass, the windows struggle to close near the top. Today, I finally found my bottle of Chemplast fluoro glide 200 dry lubricant (powdered teflon). I checked on eBay and only found this one. It is very expensive, but worth it. Far superior to baby powder in the window rubbers.
Yesterday evening, I also figured out how to downgrade AVCHD m2ts video files to mp4 for YouTube. Next spring, I will post a video of the windows in action, as well as power antenna, power locks, lighted vanity visors and twin carb teamwork.

[jawbraeka]

Even though I have new grommets for the door window glass, the windows struggle to close near the top. Today, I finally found my bottle of Chemplast fluoro glide 200 dry lubricant (powdered teflon). I checked on eBay and only found this one. It is very expensive, but worth it. Far superior to baby powder in the window rubbers.
Yesterday evening, I also figured out how to downgrade AVCHD m2ts video files to mp4 for YouTube. Next spring, I will post a video of the windows in action, as well as power antenna, power locks, lighted vanity visors and twin carb teamwork.

This sounds great.. There are a few of those things I'd like to see like power antenna, power windows, power locks.. The mirrors would also be a nice edition too.

In regards to the silicone drops/liquid, try a local electronics shop. They sometimes have silicone spray and at a rather inexpensive price.

sent from the depths of hell.

[bravekozak]

I would just like to add some information for all those wishing to perform their own power window installation.
You should also consider replacing your belt moldings, glass channel run moldings and glass regulator grommets.
Doing so, will make the windows go up and down smoothly with very little friction.

Be careful on the door harness you order. The easiest install would be to have the switches in the console. The connectors are the standard .250" four position ones. If you choose to go for the long armrest install, the connectors are 9 and 7 position .090", respectively.
The door wiring harness would have to have the switch wires in addition to the motor wiring if you go the switch in the armrest route.
Either way, I can't over emphasize the use of open barrel terminals for a neat and safe install.

The console switches are each dedicated to a separate window.
The driver's armrest switch controls both windows (no lockout).

If you want lockout, you will have to wire a separate switch.

[Pu241]

Brave,

".....Glass channel run moldings and glass regulator grommets.
Doing so, will make the windows go up and down smoothly with very little friction."

You got FourGreen numbers on that for the next group buy?
I got a bunch of litte things I need to get.

[jawbraeka]

Brave,

".....Glass channel run moldings and glass regulator grommets.
Doing so, will make the windows go up and down smoothly with very little friction."

You got FourGreen numbers on that for the next group buy?
I got a bunch of litte things I need to get.

Please let us know how much they are for the fronts and the rear as I wouldn't mind doing mine.

sent from the depths of hell.

[bravekozak]

KKY0158605	CHANNEL-GLASS RUN RH	$10.29
KKY0159605	CHANNEL-GLASS RUN LH	$10.29

MS08458502

GROMMET-SCREW

$0.48

Jaw this is for the three door Pride, and not the 5 door. Flocked black rubber for the channel runs and white nylon for the glass grommets. You need 2 grommets per window glass.

I don't know what the four part numbers are for the four belt moldings. I never bought them them from Four Green.

[jawbraeka]

KKY0158605	CHANNEL-GLASS RUN RH	$10.29
KKY0159605	CHANNEL-GLASS RUN LH	$10.29

MS08458502

GROMMET-SCREW

$0.48

Is there a mention of rear windows, me having the 4 door model, I may as well do the lot on one go and those prices there are very nice.

Just curious also, do they happen to come in different colours?

sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

I am practising to swap in a Kia Pride fuse block.
It has the extra circuits for power windows, power locks and power antenna.

How did the swap over go? Was it as easy as switching over the wiring and fuse linkages into the new housing and connecting the new appliances in?


Sent from the depths of hell.

[bravekozak]

The Kia fuse block has different mounts than the Festiva fuse block. I didn't use it. Since I could not find new fuse block terminals, I recycled a couple of terminals from a junkyard Festiva fuse block. It took about five minutes to open up each terminal for reuse.
I added in two extra circuits. One for power windows and one for power locks. Only problem is, I didn't label them yet. It's easy to figure out which one is which. Just pull a fuse and see which one doesn't work. Both circuits are 30A and they work perfectly. There is no chance of a short which could cause a fire.

[jawbraeka]

Nice.. Could a write up be in order for adding new circuits to the fusebox? Or is it fairly straight forward.

Sent from the depths of hell.

[bravekozak]

Just cut a piece big thick 8 gauge white wire from a junk yard car ( going into the fuse block). Splice it in to your white wire just ahead of where the harness branch goes to the fuse block. Crimp a recycled single terminal from a junkyard fuse block on the new white wire (hot in run) and pop it into an empty slot in the fuse block.

Crimp another recycled smaller single terminal from the junkyard onto a 14 gauge red wire and route that to your power window switch (or to your power window relay). The power windows share a common ground.

Again, here is my splice before I wrapped it in tape.

The wires that join the passenger window to the master driver armrest switch can simply be terminated exactly where the power mirror connectors are on both sides. Then they can be popped into female connectors.

I complicated the install by combining my power mirror, power window, power lock and door speaker wires all together in a single 13 position connector. My 14 gauge power window wires were light blue for up and light yellow for down. You can see them in the picture. The 14 gauge red and dark green wires are standard Mazda colors for power lock actuators.

Note: All crimps including fuse block terminals and splices are open barrel. 30 amp green fuse from junkyard.

I will post a pic of a salvaged fuse block terminal tomorrow.

[jawbraeka]

Cool.. That looks pretty straight forward.

Sent from the depths of hell.