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  • #31
    Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
    The only wire I haven't figured out is the two connector with red and green wires. I think it is for the door speaker.
    Could they be from the drivers side switch?
    Ian
    Calgary AB, Canada
    93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
    59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

    "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

    Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Aaronbrook37 View Post
      Excellent... this is what I was waiting for! What's your switch setup? I'd love to have a way to integrate something covert into the stock dash that appeared OEM... curious to what you did. For example, the two switch blanks in the gauge cluster would be perfect for this!
      I used the switches that came with the kit. That's the easiest way about it because the kit came with a wiring harness that I had to run 5 wires to the driver's door and 3 wires to the passenger's door. There are three switches that are (kind of) backlit with 2 on the driver's side and one on the passenger's.

      Here are pics of those...


      The black housings just screw on through the door panel and wire up easily. Power goes to the driver's side, so I just used the 'power windows' terminal in the fuse panel to power them. It turns off with the ignition which is handy to turn off the illumination.
      -Zack
      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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      • #33
        I should say, it would be easy enough to integrate the switches into the dash, therefore you only need to run two wires to each door. I just find switches in the dash or center console for anything door related stupid.

        Example: the door lock switch on the new Mazda 2, right in the middle... The window switches for Saturns, right in the middle...

        I look at the door for that kind of stuff, haha.
        -Zack
        Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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        • #34
          Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
          Here are pics of those...
          Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
          I should say, it would be easy enough to integrate the switches into the dash, therefore you only need to run two wires to each door. I just find switches in the dash or center console for anything door related stupid.
          Lol cool man... no sweat, it's human to disagree with others. Respect appreciated. I'll figure something out!
          1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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          • #35
            You better have a thread full of pics of this whole process! Can never have too much of a good thing.
            -Zack
            Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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            • #36
              solved

              The kia power window wiring harness has two wires for power door locks. It is identified by a red and a green two wire connector. Therefore, I have changed my mind and will not be installing the Ford power door lock kit. Instead, I will install Mazda Protege or 929 power actuators and use a single Kia power window switch ("L" for locks) to control the locks. This will take up my last dash switch plate position, beside the power antenna switch. This will avoid cutting holes in the door panels. I have purchased colour-coded bulk AWG wire on the Bay + Eastern Beaver connectors to complete the install.

              I still have to decide what to put in the one inch holes where the door handles use to be. Maybe some plastic pipe caps and paint them grey?
              Last edited by bravekozak; 10-02-2010, 09:06 AM.

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              • #37
                Or a tweeter, hahaha.
                -Zack
                Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                • #38
                  Did I have most of the wires labeled correctly ?
                  sigpic
                  The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter

                  Link to my festiva pictures below
                  https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
                  Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.

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                  • #39
                    almost

                    The small connector was for the power mirror. I am installing power locks at the same time. The stock Festiva door latch has an empty hole on the tab closest in. That is where I want the rod to go. I would prefer the bottom hole. I will have to move the other rod up a half an inch. I searched under "Mazda lock actuator" to find that the wire colours were red and green of the same gauge. I did not think it was for the unused connector on the latch mechanism. Those wires are red/green stripe and green/orange stripe.
                    I am not sure, what's under the rubber on top of the latch. A magnet? Is it supposed to sense if the door is ajar? Does anyone know the answer?
                    Last edited by bravekozak; 10-02-2010, 07:41 PM.

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                    • #40
                      I'm assuming it's just a switch to sense if the door is latched for the power seatbelts.

                      I was dumbfounded by my girlfriend's 323 on how it knew the doors were open if I was pressing the door jamb switch and the belts weren't moving. I figured the switch must be in the latch then.
                      -Zack
                      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                      • #41
                        correct

                        I believe power seat belts were only available in the U.S.
                        All the door latches were wired so that the belts would cycle when the door was opened or closed. You would have to maintain this wiring if you were doing a power window install stateside. I prefer manual belts, that's why I cut my tracks and am going with power locks, instead.

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                        • #42
                          hole punch

                          Used a couple of hole punches on some blue striped door panels. I am now ready for the long arm rests. I just noticed that the connector for the power mirror is the same (7 pins) as the connector for the drivers side power window. Just waiting for the drivers power regulator to come from Germany. Mirko got a large number of additional parts off the Kia Pride he was parting out.
                          Last edited by bravekozak; 10-21-2010, 05:05 PM.

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                          • #43
                            Installed the LH power window winder yesterday. Tested O.K. both up and down. Now to remove the dash to join the connectors underneath both sides of the dash. I will be using the split loom to contain the wires. In my opinion its too much trouble to wrap the wires in electrical tape.

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                            • #44
                              schematic needed

                              Since the Pride power window controls in the door handles came from England, they were meant to have the master control switch for both windows on the right hand handle.
                              Since I swapped the master control to the left hand side, when you pull up on the L/H control lever, power goes to the tan wire to the other side. Obvoiusly, I will have to release a few terminals and reposition them in the connector. I politely asked Kia U.K. for a schematic for the power windows, and Vijay says he doesn't deal with overseas inquiries. I politely told him that Kia North America told me to contact the United Kingdom since Prides were not sold over here. I am waiting for his response.

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                              • #45
                                tweeter covers

                                I have decided to put some tweeter covers over the window crank holes. Should I get the Acura, Kia, or Firebird tweeter covers?

                                I had to punch the hole in the drivers door panel to 1-1/4" for the larger power window switch connector to pass through on that side. I have a set of Mazda RX-7 speaker covers. I installed the plastic door speaker retainers and screws in anticipation of future installation. I may not be able to afford them if gas is going up 60% in the next year.

                                Someday I may be able to afford some black leather door panels.
                                The best thing about Festivas is the door panels are dead flat. You could almost cut them out of some nice heavy plastic and toss the warped fiberboard panels. Tweeter and speaker covers with nothing in behind!
                                Last edited by bravekozak; 12-28-2010, 05:22 PM.

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