FestivaReeds HID Conversion! (caution pic heavy)

[daniel_cogar]

ranger projector conversion with HID's... this is how im going on truckstiva so ive got bright lights and still not blinding ppl

[FestivaReed]

Update :

so i got these fancy projectors and ive been sizing them up to the stock housing, i plan on cutting the rear out of the housing unitll it fits the HID unit, then get a plate cut to match the mounting points of the HID, i also found a place locally who is using my stock glass housing to make me a Lexan clear cover to match the stock housing, i plan on blacking out the chrome reflector in the housing and just having a sweet hid thats adjustable via the stock adjuster screws ! ,

http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss333/Jreed624/FestivaReed%20HID%20conversion/IMG_20120412_214443.jpg

projector with hi/low solenoid

http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss333/Jreed624/FestivaReed%20HID%20conversion/IMG_20120412_214534.jpg

all i needed was a SPST (single pull single throw) automotive 30a relay, stock wiring and creativity

http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss333/Jreed624/FestivaReed%20HID%20conversion/IMG_20120412_214527.jpg]

http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss333/Jreed624/FestivaReed%20HID%20conversion/IMG_20120412_214521.jpg

http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss333/Jreed624/FestivaReed%20HID%20conversion/IMG_20120412_214429.jpg

:
The relay is needed here to supply power to the ballast when the hi beam switch is activated, without it when you turn the high beams on the low beam +12v is cut off. so with that set up using the high beam as my trigger wire and having a +12v constant to the relay it not only switches power to the low beam circuit it provides the power so you get no momentary flickers in the HID...

[rbrown]

I thought these were going to allow the stock bulbs to be put in for inspection.

[DriverOne]

FestivaReeds HID Conversion! (caution pic heavy)

I thought these were going to allow the stock bulbs to be put in for inspection.

True projector lenses like he's installing pass inspection because of their OE quality. The Lexan covers will not diffuse the light like plastic lenses can, and so keep the focus. The genius of this setup is that it allows him to both focus and align his projectors correctly. The black paint does two things: 1, it removes any backwash the lexan may reflect to the housing, and 2, it keeps night time oncoming traffic from being blinded by a now unshielded reflector housing.

[FestivaReed]

True projector lenses like he's installing pass inspection because of their OE quality. The Lexan covers will not diffuse the light like plastic lenses can, and so keep the focus. The genius of this setup is that it allows him to both focus and align his projectors correctly. The black paint does two things: 1, it removes any backwash the lexan may reflect to the housing, and 2, it keeps night time oncoming traffic from being blinded by a now unshielded reflector housing.

+1 Could not have said it better myself,any they pass PA inspection because they have the Hi/Low option which with the relay works perfectly

just waiting on the price for the lexan lens

[getnpsi]

You can always vacuuform some cheaper stuff ontop of your glass and boom perfect copy plastic lens. If you do this make a few sets as there is definate interest

[FestYboy]

^ that won't work, forming over the original part will produce a product LARGER and the the original. Reed would have to manufacture a piece about 90% the size of the original for that theory to work.

[Basement_Modder]

He could make a clay mold inside the lens and vacuum form over that.

[getnpsi]

You can still go over it,as you are glueing it back into place you trim as needed. The edges is not where light is going to be unlike halogen bowl reflectors. If you give it taper it can rest on top on the outside and give more area to glue back. Theres a member on here who used this method to do a retrofit on a
merc marquis iirc

[FestivaReed]

UPDATE!

well ive been super busy trying to get things done at work and such so i havent had alot of time to work on these, BUT today was nice and i got alot done, first ill start off with the write up on what you need to retrofit the wiring, then new pics

REQUIRED PARTS:
2x 20-40amp SPST automotive relays
2x HID ballats, Hi/low Solenoids, and Bulbs
8x Phillips Screws
5-6' #12-14 AWG wire
2x packs of 18-22 AWG barrel crimps
1x pack of 14-16 AWG barrel crimps
Drill and Bits

Figure out your mounting location, in my case behind the fender is a prime location for the ballast and relay

WIRING:

For the Headlights you have
Red with White stripe (R/w)
Red with Blue stripe (R/B)
Black (ground) (B)

Relay:
Yellow +12v (battery) - powers the relay at all times
Orange - NOT USED (can be wired to fog lamps,since when the high circuit is on
this wire is 0v, under all other conditions is +12v
Black - Ground
Red - Hi-beam trigger
Brown - Low Beam Power supply
================
connect the yellow to battery
R/W - connect the positive wire of the hi/low solenoid , and the red wire from the relay to the R/W on the harness
R/B - connect the positive from the ballast and the brown wire from the relay to the R/B in the harness
B - Connect the ballast,the hi-low solenoid and the black wires together

(tuck the orange wire away for later use!)

with this setup the ballast uses the 12v provided by the harness to turn on the HID's iniatally then, when the hi beam is activated it moves the flapper, AND the relay supplies the ballast with 12v since when u hit the high beam is cuts power from the R/B wire!

Pics tonight when its dark!

[crazyrog17]

Thread revivaaaalll!

Any updates?

... If you give it taper it can rest on top on the outside and give more area to glue back. Theres a member on here who used this method to do a retrofit on a merc marquis iirc

Dat was me.

Thread that gave me inspiration: http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-faq-app...headlight.html

My flickr stream of the process: http://www.flickr.com/photos/46165907@N03/