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Painting my car

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  • Team Lightning
    replied
    Brave. did you read the form required for just sample purchase of Vantablack in America?

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    I was hoping someone would go all the way and apply Vantablack paint.

    You would reduce your chances of getting a speeding ticket by 95%.

    Unfortunately, Vantablack is not a suitable coating for use on exposed trim or as an external painted surface. After all, why would you want to turn a thing of beauty into something with no perceptible form or shape.

    This puppy would be very hard to see at night, even driving down a brightly lit street.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 05-21-2018, 06:18 PM.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Let the Reassembly begin

    Got my car back from paint
    (Poor upload quality, hard to see the flake)

    Had them just slap some paint of the firewall since it was bare metal after I removed the insulation
    Festiva-Aurora_insidefirewallblack.jpg
    My valvecover to preview the color combo
    Festivaa-Aurora-engingbayvalvecover.jpg

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    That method was so stupidly easy. Most of it came off in slabs larger than my spread out hand. I probably could've gotten away with only using 10# of dry ice and 30oz of 91% alcohol, but I bought 25# and 90oz, which turned out to be a good thing because I didn't do it all at once and dry ice doesn't keep well over night. It lost a lot of density, so plan ahead, start in the morning, and get it done quickly. When you crush the dry ice, you want it all to be between the size of the last digits of your thumb and pinky. Also, be careful to not break holes in your frozen, now brittle, bucket, cooler, etc... I used a camp shovel, which was much too bulky and awkward for the job, but it did punch through the ice quite easily. I recommend a strong right-angle putty knife, like in the video above.

    I wasn't able to use this method on the firewall, so I would recommend using a 1" chisel and a rubber mallet. Use SEVERAL gentle taps around the edges of the section, then level the chisel to the surface as much as possible to still aim it under the insulation and use single, hard, swift blows with the mallet. I found this to minimize residue and help the insulation to break away in larger sheets. Be mindful of seams in the sheetmetal.
    Last edited by Sid_RallyX_82; 11-03-2017, 01:41 AM.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Good thinking. Here's a good one
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FqkxgcjRQQ

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  • reddragon
    replied
    Pour 100% alcohol over the dry ice. Leave it sit on the insulation for a few mins then tap it with a hammer.

    Have done this myself, it's the quickest and cleanest way to remove it. There's plenty of vids on youtube showing how it's done. Dry ice is cheap, fishing/camping stores usually sell it.
    Last edited by reddragon; 10-20-2017, 08:56 PM.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Cool thank you

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  • tdk666
    replied
    I used a sharp scrapper and scrapped it off and what I could not scrape off I used a wire wheel on a grinder it is a messy job yo good luck

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    I assume freezing is to reduce adhesion and make it brittle. There are some parts that are gooey and pliable, but the majority of it is almost hard as rock. I'll try the dry ice in the morning, but in case that doesn't work...

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
    Or drive it to alaska

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    Lol I'll see how much dry ice costs

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
    No chisel or anything? Just freeze it and whack and it should break off?
    Or drive it to alaska

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    No chisel or anything? Just freeze it and whack and it should break off?

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Air in a can (upside down), or dry ice and a rubber mallet.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    What's the best way to remove the factory floor-pan insulation? This crap is really tough

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
    Did you pick a type of paint yet? I think you were planning laquer last i remember. You could do laquer, single stage, standard base clear or a tricoat. I would love to see a tricoat pearl white on a festiva. Its reasonably popular on newer cadallacs.

    With sound deadner i did my entire car in the b-quiet product. I think i linked you my build thread before. But its so incredibly quiet now you want to fall asleep while driving, lol. Basically no road or tire noise. However sound deadner cannot fix wind noise around the glass. And you really really notice the wind noise theough the cracks in the rubber around the windows and the mouldings on the windshield. I like the way i did mine, but its a lot of work. Not worth doing more than i did because of the wind noise from the glass though.

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    People have said that California only allows water based paint, but I'll double check that when I start talking to paint shops. Since I'm doing flake, I'll most likely do base clear. Not looking to do pearl or metallic or anything like that. I want to do a solid white with small blue flake and other blue accents like blue footwell and dash lighting and maybe a blue stripe in the upholstery or something. Is there a way to fix wind noise? Reinstal the glass with fresh rubber? Also, how is the heat insulation with B Quiet? I love where it gets hot and plan to use the car in the snow

    Originally posted by Studebaker View Post
    chevy white from the sixties is the whitest i know of.
    Thanks, I'll look at that one

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