Painting my car

[Studebaker]

chevy white from the sixties is the whitest i know of.

[w4rkry]

I just removed my dashboard and suddenly realized how HEAVY it is. This car is going to be my daily, but for my rally car, is there anyone (Charlie) Who has done anything to alleviate this weight? Custom aluminum dash, maybe?

Tommy (fecomatter) stripped his dash out and just has the gauges in his, along with 2 speakers and a radio.

[ryanprins13]

Did you pick a type of paint yet? I think you were planning laquer last i remember. You could do laquer, single stage, standard base clear or a tricoat. I would love to see a tricoat pearl white on a festiva. Its reasonably popular on newer cadallacs.

With sound deadner i did my entire car in the b-quiet product. I think i linked you my build thread before. But its so incredibly quiet now you want to fall asleep while driving, lol. Basically no road or tire noise. However sound deadner cannot fix wind noise around the glass. And you really really notice the wind noise theough the cracks in the rubber around the windows and the mouldings on the windshield. I like the way i did mine, but its a lot of work. Not worth doing more than i did because of the wind noise from the glass though.

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[Sid_RallyX_82]

Almost done with disassembly. Only a small bit of rust around the seat mounts. I've decided to paint the car White. I come from a classic car background so I have the lingering notion of using the factory color since it was white, but is there a whiter white? I'm considering doing a faint blue flake, so I would want it to be as pure white as possible if I do that. Also, I've been looking at insulation and sound deadener and it looks like there are different materials you're supposed to use in different places? I'm just not quite grasping it, so would someone be able to explain that to me?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

I just removed my dashboard and suddenly realized how HEAVY it is. This car is going to be my daily, but for my rally car, is there anyone (Charlie) Who has done anything to alleviate this weight? Custom aluminum dash, maybe?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Honestly, Por-15 gets so hard, it might stop dents from occurring. I'll decide later whether I coat the whole floor pan and such, but I'll definitely use it in the corners and rusty spots. Should I cut away a small piece of seam sealer to check for rust? Or just look around it?

[Rick the Quick]

I wouldn't grind or remove any paint off if the paint is in good (as in adhering) condition. In other words if the factory paint is not peeling, leave it. Soap and water is a good cleaner/degreaser. I would finish the cleaning with a solvent like rubbing alcohol or if you can wipe it on and off quickly you can use brake clean. Use only clean rags or better yet industrial grade paper towels to do the final wipe down. Look at the towels as you wipe off the solvent. When the rags stay clean you are finished, If they come away dirty you still have contaminents in the surface. Be mindful of the lint that the rags, especially the paper towels leave behind. It may not look like much but it may cause adhesion problems. If the paint is peeling ryan is correct. Use paint stripper to remove it and I would make darn sure you get all of the paint stripper removed before using a rust converter. I have yet to use sound deadener on my car but I do plan on it soon. If it is anything as sticky as 3M two sided tape (for side moulding and emblems) you wont have any problems as long as you are putting it on a clean surface. There should be no need to scuff the paint with a scotchbrite if it is clean. The warm temperatures you should be having in Temecula should make the job easier. I would definately vacuum the car before putting the deadner in. I use a nice clean chipping brush to go ahead of the vacuum cleaner to make sure all the dirt in the nooks and crannies is loose. Make sure you get all the lint left from the cleaning rags. If you have an air compressor you may want to blow out what the vacuum cleaner missed. You can never be too clean in this type of job. The deadner can't stick to anything but a clean surface. Most important : if the inside paint is in good condition do not disturb it, You will only create problems. If you want to use any type of undercoat product over any paint you will need to first scuff the paint with a coarse scotchbrite. If you don't the under coating will peel off in a short time. Good luck and let us know how it turned out.

[ryanprins13]

I was just gonna use an angle grinder and 3 or 5 inch scotchbrite pad for the paint, but paint stripper sounds easier. If you don't cover the whole panel, how much do you need to cover? 75%? 90%? I assume covering less reduces effectiveness, plus I also want the thermal insulation from it. By "wash", do you mean bucket of water, soap, and sponge? There really isn't much dust, but should I vacuum first?
Por-15: brush it on, let it dry, apply a few coats. Hardens like a rock and is sandable. Do you think the rigidity would have any significant unwanted effects?

Paint stripper will be quicker. Finish off with the scotchbrite like that to rough up the surface before painting.

I dont know how much to cover, should say on their site, i didnt do it...

Soap, water and a rag, yes. I blew mine out with compressed air first, but not nessasary.

Ok, as long as you dont plug drain holes. I dont know how rigid it is. Will it crack off if you get a dent?

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[Sid_RallyX_82]

Thanks
I used b-quiet extreme from here. https://www.b-quiet.com/collections/all/dampers
Used maybe 110sq ft iirc. I covered everything in the car except under rear seat. Thats inner and outer panels on doors and rear quarters, hatch... and also firewall and floors. Fastivaca used it and has been driving his car, i havent driven mine yet to see how well it worked. Im also told you dont need to cover the whole panel for it to work, but i did... :/

Wash car, strip everything out. Wash inside including inside doors, rear hatch and quarters. As best you can into rockers. Dry car. Do not grind the paint off. You will warp the panels and make the metal thinner and uneven. Use paint stripper and follow the directions. Then use a rust converter product on rusty areas. Do not leave bare metal for long. Moisture in the air starts rust that you cant see.
I have never used por15 so i cant comment, but do not plug any drain holes with it in the doors or rockers. That will prevent water from draining and will be bad...
But undercoat after you paint and i reccomend a waxoil like i used as opposed to a rubberized type.

Tips for sound deadner? What you put it on has to be clean. It adheres better warm, i used a 500watt worklamp and kept the roll close to it. Use tin snips to cut, marker to mark where to cut, a roller or ratchet head to help press it down, gloves.


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I was just gonna use an angle grinder and 3 or 5 inch scotchbrite pad for the paint, but paint stripper sounds easier. If you don't cover the whole panel, how much do you need to cover? 75%? 90%? I assume covering less reduces effectiveness, plus I also want the thermal insulation from it. By "wash", do you mean bucket of water, soap, and sponge? There really isn't much dust, but should I vacuum first?
Por-15: brush it on, let it dry, apply a few coats. Hardens like a rock and is sandable. Do you think the rigidity would have any significant unwanted effects?

[ryanprins13]

Nice build. I forgot about sound deadener. Definitely gonna do that. Can you give me a ball park of how much that costs and about how much to get? Tell me what you think about this plan:
Strip everything from the car, grind the pain and other coatings from the metal, coat the floor board, rockers, inner door and quarter panels, and all hazard prone areas with POR-15, sand, and send to paint. Then apply under coat to necessary areas.
Any tips for the sound deadener? Extra adhesive?

Thanks
I used b-quiet extreme from here. https://www.b-quiet.com/collections/all/dampers
Used maybe 110sq ft iirc. I covered everything in the car except under rear seat. Thats inner and outer panels on doors and rear quarters, hatch... and also firewall and floors. Fastivaca used it and has been driving his car, i havent driven mine yet to see how well it worked. Im also told you dont need to cover the whole panel for it to work, but i did... :/

Wash car, strip everything out. Wash inside including inside doors, rear hatch and quarters. As best you can into rockers. Dry car. Do not grind the paint off. You will warp the panels and make the metal thinner and uneven. Use paint stripper and follow the directions. Then use a rust converter product on rusty areas. Do not leave bare metal for long. Moisture in the air starts rust that you cant see.
I have never used por15 so i cant comment, but do not plug any drain holes with it in the doors or rockers. That will prevent water from draining and will be bad...
But undercoat after you paint and i reccomend a waxoil like i used as opposed to a rubberized type.

Tips for sound deadner? What you put it on has to be clean. It adheres better warm, i used a 500watt worklamp and kept the roll close to it. Use tin snips to cut, marker to mark where to cut, a roller or ratchet head to help press it down, gloves.


Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[Sid_RallyX_82]

For where it rusts see photos in this thread at post #37. From there to the end is a discussion of how to prevent rust and what to use. Lots of good info. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58782

Here post #1 and 7 show where i put my rustproofing. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59836

Basically any metal joint that can possible trap water when its clean but especially when it gets full of dirt. The dirt traps water.
So inside rockers, doors, framerails, rear quarter panels all on the lower weld.

Every festiva i have seen rusted from the inside out. Paint gets chipped off the rockers obviously. So getting paintable rockgaurd that can spray fairly smooth and spraying paint over it will look pretty good and offer protection. When the paint chips a bit you wont notice as much because the rockgaurd is black.
Also i rustproofed the entire underside of the car since i hope to have no oil leaks from the engine and trans doing it for me on this car.
Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Nice build. I forgot about sound deadener. Definitely gonna do that. Can you give me a ball park of how much that costs and about how much to get? Tell me what you think about this plan:
Strip everything from the car, grind the pain and other coatings from the metal, coat the floor board, rockers, inner door and quarter panels, and all hazard prone areas with POR-15, sand, and send to paint. Then apply under coat to necessary areas.
Any tips for the sound deadener? Extra adhesive?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

My blue car is on the shelf for now. I'm getting rid of the hideous silver-and-orange-with-blue,purple,orange-flames and painting it black. The highest extreme of my goals for this was a lacquer paint job, but that's a bit impractical for me/this car. I usually wash and wax 1/week-1/month, depending on how busy I am. Here's my breakdown:
Priority 1, color. I don't want metallic. I want a deep, glossy black paint
Priority 2, durability. I want something that will last with good prep work
Priority 3, price. I can spend some money, but again, I gotta keep it practical
Also, for prep work. What are the most notorious rust holes? Where should I slather sheet metal with rust inhibitor? The car is pretty clean, I just want to be preventative. The car is being stripped to the bones
Thanks guys!

[ryanprins13]

Also, for prep work. What are the most notorious rust holes? Where should I slather sheet metal with rust inhibitor? The car is pretty clean, I just want to be preventative. The car is being stripped to the bones
Thanks guys!

For where it rusts see photos in this thread at post #37. From there to the end is a discussion of how to prevent rust and what to use. Lots of good info. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58782

Here post #1 and 7 show where i put my rustproofing. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59836

Basically any metal joint that can possible trap water when its clean but especially when it gets full of dirt. The dirt traps water.
So inside rockers, doors, framerails, rear quarter panels all on the lower weld.

Every festiva i have seen rusted from the inside out. Paint gets chipped off the rockers obviously. So getting paintable rockgaurd that can spray fairly smooth and spraying paint over it will look pretty good and offer protection. When the paint chips a bit you wont notice as much because the rockgaurd is black.
Also i rustproofed the entire underside of the car since i hope to have no oil leaks from the engine and trans doing it for me on this car.
Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[Sid_RallyX_82]

My blue car is on the shelf for now. I'm getting rid of the hideous silver-and-orange-with-blue,purple,orange-flames and painting it black. The highest extreme of my goals for this was a lacquer paint job, but that's a bit impractical for me/this car. I usually wash and wax 1/week-1/month, depending on how busy I am. Here's my breakdown:
Priority 1, color. I don't want metallic. I want a deep, glossy black paint
Priority 2, durability. I want something that will last with good prep work
Priority 3, price. I can spend some money, but again, I gotta keep it practical
I'm kind of fresh outta school, where we used solvent paints, so I don't really know what professional shops are allowed to use. To what kinds of paints will I have access?
Also, for prep work. What are the most notorious rust holes? Where should I slather sheet metal with rust inhibitor? The car is pretty clean, I just want to be preventative. The car is being stripped to the bones
Thanks guys!

[Rick the Quick]

Hey RallyX, I forgot to take into consideration you live in California. California, where you can come live illegally and the authorities don't have the authority to ask you about your status....and you can not paint a car with solvent based paint. I don't know much about water based paint that as I understand is now the mandate. I hope that the water based paint is not found down the road to be more harmful then what it has replaced, like the catalyzed urethanes that replaced the dangerous nitro cellulose lacquers....Hahaha. I guess all the changes both good and bad originate in the Golden State. I am sure it will be here in New Mexico) before we know it and BTW I have nothing against using a product that is more environmentally friendly as well as user friendly. I have known some old school painters that were seriously effected by the years of exposure to the poisons of solvent based paint. Unfortunately I have plenty of it in me and I do suspect I will someday pay the price for my careless behavior. Sorry if I am guilty of hijacking this thread.