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  • #61
    Originally posted by lovemyfesty View Post
    ... A little patience would be nice!

    Good advice. You should follow it too
    Oscar

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    • #62
      He has lots of patience. He waited 8 months after the thread died to post in it.

      Comment


      • #63
        My bad. LOL!
        Oscar

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        • #64
          Originally posted by lovemyfesty View Post
          Instead of wasting so much time and space complaining, why not just answer the question???? Obviously you know-it-alls must have the answer. Remember, not everyone is as smart as you. A little patience would be nice!
          sweet, another PA guy!!!
          Trees aren't kind to me...

          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

          Comment


          • #65
            Originally posted by Zivon23 View Post
            I am from a small town called Endicott, New York. It is about 10 minutes from the PA./NY. border along rt. 81.

            Sorry bout not doing a search first..... ...must have had a "Senior Moment". In the future, I will try to remember to Search FIRST and Ask Questions later.

            And Lastly, Thanks for the warm welcome.:p

            ~Z23~
            "SENIOR MOMENT"! Your just a puppy, ...senior moment my suspention. Oh, welcome aboard. Please don't be too afraid to ask questions if you can't find something. Oops , beatin' a dead horse...ah thread.:sleepy2:
            Last edited by navdoc101; 04-14-2011, 02:44 PM.
            If it don't fit, use a bigger hammer!


            '93 Green L - ' Tiva

            Comment


            • #66
              Also Zivon, when you change the rear struts, you should go to the Aspire Monroe rear struts. They are basically the same as the Festy ones, but have a lower spring perch which is about 5/8" higher than the Festy one. This allows for more flexibility in what wider rims and tires you can put on with no issues. Since posting in July last year, I have switched to the Aspire Monroes in the rear, and ditched the spacers for my 14x6 rims with 185/60x14 tires.

              Also, definitely upgrade the brakes! Even with the lightweight 12" rims/tires, Festiva braking is marginal. Putting on heavier stuff will only increase stopping distances. I have stock brakes on the rear, and Capri XR2 front brakes (which have the 4x114 bolt pattern), and they definitely haul the car down.
              90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
              09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

              You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

              Disaster preparedness

              Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

              Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

              Comment


              • #67
                I am patient until it comes to rudeness!

                Comment


                • #68
                  Wouldn't it be easier just to answer someone's question, even it has been answered before? He asked if 13" rims from a Geo can be used with no issues at all. WHERE in the seven pages of replies (so far) is this answered? Who wants to do a search when there are pages and pages of nonsense, but no answers to the question!

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    I have to agree. He was asking if 13" wheels would work. Look at post #16.
                    Oscar

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      The 13" Metro steelies are the perfect upgrade replacement IMO. No rubbing issues with a 165 tire, or a larger tire if you switch to Aspire rear struts. On a 4 1/2" wide 13" rim, you might even be able to get away with a 175/70x13 with the Festiva rear strut.

                      Other rims that would work are the Gen 1 (1986 - 89) Mazda 323 rims, and tons of others: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                      Disaster preparedness

                      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Hi Zivon,
                        FINALLY--a straightforward answer to your question, thanks to Tom. It only took 70 posts. To Tom: THANK YOU!
                        I have done searches on several Festy issues in the past and gave up because it took so long to get an answer because of all the nonsense.
                        To those of you (like Tom) keep up the good work. To the others (like Monsoon) CHILL!

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Hey for you guys that don't want to buy new struts and having rubbing problems with the festiva strut. You can cut the bottum of the strut close to where it bolts to the car , then weld in a peace of pipe . Thats what I did and Im running 175-70-13s with no rubbing in the rear . The front is a different story tho.

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Originally posted by dragsterdave View Post
                            Hey for you guys that don't want to buy new struts and having rubbing problems with the festiva strut. You can cut the bottum of the strut close to where it bolts to the car , then weld in a peace of pipe. Thats what I did and Im running 175-70-13s with no rubbing in the rear. The front is a different story tho.
                            Or maybe make an extender out of aluminum block. Two holes in it; bolt the strut to the top hole, and the bottom alum. block hole would go into the strut mount, where the strut hole was supposed to go. Essentially a suspension lift. Of course that would give you a raised look in the back.

                            I've also heard of shaving the outside of the Festy rear strut's lower spring perch, where it would rub against the tire. But I think the bet choice overall is the Aspire strut, esp. if you need new ones anyway.

                            BTW the front is no problem for clearance, with my 185/60x14 tires on 14x6 rims.
                            Last edited by TominMO; 04-16-2011, 02:21 PM.
                            90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                            09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                            You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                            Disaster preparedness

                            Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                            Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Yep, fronts are usually not a problem with most reasonable tire sizes and offsets.

                              For the rear, the easiest solution is to use Aspire spec struts with their slightly higher perches.

                              That extender block idea does sound good though, especially if you still want to run new KYB GR2s. Yes, it will raise the back end, but you can also cut the rear springs to lower it back some. Cutting rear springs should not be as problematical as cutting the fronts.

                              I've cut two sets of Aspire springs so far and the worst problem was some thunking from the front struts when reversing and turning sharply, but only in one direction. Not really a problem, though! Just a little noise.

                              I've had no noise at all from my cut rear springs. All they do is go up and down. They don't turn like the fronts.

                              Question:

                              What would an extender block look like? I think it would have to be very carefully designed to be stable and secure. There could be other uses, too, like for using other rear strut designs and to make up for different hole/strut sleeve combos.

                              Hmmmm...

                              Karl
                              Last edited by Safety Guy; 04-17-2011, 10:21 AM.
                              '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                              '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                              '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                              '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                              '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                I just went out and meditated upon poor old Muttstiva's rear axle. The extender block would have to be stabilized on the lower strut bolt axis in order not to shift around. This could be done by drilling another attaching hole either in the trailing arm body or in the rear of the "cage" that surrounds the lower bolt hole area. Not looking like an easy job at the moment.

                                It might be best made out of heavy guage steel plate, bent to shape and drilled for attaching points. The standard lower strut bolt would provide the load bearing capacity while another bottom hole would provide stability. Then you'd need the two top holes for the replacement strut bolt location, which would become the new actual pivot point for the strut.

                                How this would either improve or impede rear suspension travel, motion, etc., I do not feel qualified to guess.

                                Karl
                                '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                                '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                                '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                                '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                                '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                                Comment

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