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finally making some traction bars...

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  • #16
    its such a short distance. i have to find some female heim joints.
    I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
      its such a short distance. i have to find some female heim joints.
      I was wondering how you were going to finish them... Love your Car/Fab work Bro. I'm wondering if WHEN you add the second Hiem joint.Will there be enough leverage to apply down force? (Beacuse your traction bars are very short) Good luck,not trying to be a Buzz Kill. Just trying to learn alongside you. Sub'd-
      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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      • #18
        I'm very interested in your work here, its good stuff. Is there any way you could take the frame mount back at least a few inches? That angle doesn't look like it will be as strong as a lesser angle (lesser angle being more of a straight pull) with more room between the heim joints. Maybe you could use an L bracket bolted or welded to the frame and the heim joint on the outside of that? Any way you do it is definately going to be an improvement for sure tho!
        2008 Kia Rio- new beater
        1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
        1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
        1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
        1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
        1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
        1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
        1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



        "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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        • #19
          My thoughts were to run brackets back from the sway bar as well ,but the work has to be held in a very small location . My first thought was moving them back farther would be better ,any upper angle at all will give down force . The only problem I see is an extreme caster roll during shifting . So I really think you are better off staying as short as possible . Good work, keep it up ill be watching .
          New build on the way .

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          • #20
            Yeah if it didnt put a joint on both ends you could risk it breaking if you had to much wheel hop. I had a similar setup on my srt4 from frame to lower control arm they helped a lot.

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            • #21
              im not doing it to correct wheel hop. im doing it to maintain steering geometry during hard cornering by preventing the sway bar from shifting
              I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

              Comment


              • #22
                That's the spirit! Mostly everyone is concerned with straight line speed. All I care about is handling and enough power to get it up to speed.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
                  im not doing it to correct wheel hop. im doing it to maintain steering geometry during hard cornering by preventing the sway bar from shifting
                  :hello1: Finally!!!!! Someone who likes corners too! Why not grind down the sway bar to stock Festy size at the front mounts and use the original bushings?
                  Last edited by DriverOne; 03-02-2012, 09:25 PM.
                  In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
                  There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"

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                  • #24
                    Welding something to the lower radiator support ?

                    My Honda buddy says he's seen some Honda's actually bend the front rad support by trying to reinforce it. I think on a Festiva it will be ok because....FESTIVA !! Nuff' said!
                    -M3NTAL MARK! Woo!!

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                    • #25
                      The front core support is where motor mounts attach also. I think it is strong enough
                      Neil

                      Jesus loves me. This I know.

                      93 L track prep in progress
                      88? Parts car-sold
                      91 L B6-me f25mr-soon to be ???
                      86 b2000- pisses of HOA-sold
                      1997 k1500 suburban- kid hauler/GAS hog

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
                        im not doing it to correct wheel hop. im doing it to maintain steering geometry during hard cornering by preventing the sway bar from shifting
                        This is why I was inquiring a couple months ago about lowering/raising the sway bar attcah points.I think if you search anti squat.You'll kinda see where I was going with it. Even a small amount of shimming should see some change in the handling.(It my little brain)
                        The only thing is everything is a compromise. Change "On power" traction coming out of corner.Will also change "Off Power" "Turn In".
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by DriverOne View Post
                          :hello1: Finally!!!!! Someone who likes corners too! Why not grind down the sway bar to stock Festy size at the front mounts and use the original bushings?
                          i think youre onto something sir... here is my problem.... i took this while driving around 40mph on a flat straight road. hard corners make my front end "shift" gone over every bolt and everything is tight... sorry for the crappy quality

                          Last edited by fastivaB6TG25MR; 03-03-2012, 03:43 AM.
                          I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
                            i think youre onto something sir... here is my problem.... i took this while driving around 40mph on a flat straight road. hard corners make my front end "shift" gone over every bolt and everything is tight... sorry for the crappy quality

                            http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...0223103820.mp4
                            Jack the car up and have someone or something hold the steering wheel. Grab the tire at 6 & 3 and start shaking the tire. You should find your "Play". A worn rack gear or pinion gear can be VERY hard to isolate.Could also be wheel bearing preload. Both of the above can be hard to isolate because they dont always make noise.
                            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                            • #29
                              i turned the wheel to simulate a hard turn... notice after the jerk the wheel is off by alot to the right... im driving the whole time
                              I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I had that start happening in my minivan, jacked it up one day to do someting and the driver side sway bar mount was missing a nut and the other one was halfway off. Maybe it's time for some new sway bar/frame bushings?


                                You could like spray paint or mark the sway bar on each side of the bushings to check to see if it's the problem..
                                Last edited by zoom zoom; 03-03-2012, 04:30 AM.
                                2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                                1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                                1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                                1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                                1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                                1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                                1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                                1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                                "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                                Comment

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