its such a short distance. i have to find some female heim joints.
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finally making some traction bars...
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Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Postits such a short distance. i have to find some female heim joints.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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I'm very interested in your work here, its good stuff. Is there any way you could take the frame mount back at least a few inches? That angle doesn't look like it will be as strong as a lesser angle (lesser angle being more of a straight pull) with more room between the heim joints. Maybe you could use an L bracket bolted or welded to the frame and the heim joint on the outside of that? Any way you do it is definately going to be an improvement for sure tho!2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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My thoughts were to run brackets back from the sway bar as well ,but the work has to be held in a very small location . My first thought was moving them back farther would be better ,any upper angle at all will give down force . The only problem I see is an extreme caster roll during shifting . So I really think you are better off staying as short as possible . Good work, keep it up ill be watching .New build on the way .
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Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Postim not doing it to correct wheel hop. im doing it to maintain steering geometry during hard cornering by preventing the sway bar from shiftingLast edited by DriverOne; 03-02-2012, 09:25 PM.In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"
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Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Postim not doing it to correct wheel hop. im doing it to maintain steering geometry during hard cornering by preventing the sway bar from shifting
The only thing is everything is a compromise. Change "On power" traction coming out of corner.Will also change "Off Power" "Turn In".Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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Originally posted by DriverOne View Post:hello1: Finally!!!!! Someone who likes corners too! Why not grind down the sway bar to stock Festy size at the front mounts and use the original bushings?
Last edited by fastivaB6TG25MR; 03-03-2012, 03:43 AM.I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!
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Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Posti think youre onto something sir... here is my problem.... i took this while driving around 40mph on a flat straight road. hard corners make my front end "shift" gone over every bolt and everything is tight... sorry for the crappy quality
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...0223103820.mp4Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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I had that start happening in my minivan, jacked it up one day to do someting and the driver side sway bar mount was missing a nut and the other one was halfway off. Maybe it's time for some new sway bar/frame bushings?
You could like spray paint or mark the sway bar on each side of the bushings to check to see if it's the problem..Last edited by zoom zoom; 03-03-2012, 04:30 AM.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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