Advanced Suspension Mods

[FestYboy]

It wasn't Nate and I, it was another member who's name escapes me at the moment, but he's in PA. Not sure how Nate intertwines with this, it's been a few years since the initial CAD drawings were made.

Also I've been mulling over the idea of relocating the torque boxes and mounts for the rear beam further into the body to change the arm angle instead of loosing what little wheel space we have to drop plates.

[Advancedynamix]

Oops, for some reason I thought it was Nate who drew those up. I've gotta dig those drawings up. They are on my old laptop somewhere.
Relocating the beam mounts would be a really involved surgery. There is a lot going on in that area. If the drop plates also provide negative camber then you can still get the tires up in the fenders, but these cars run out of room pretty fast up there. You'd need little low profile 13" tires to really get in the weeds. #goals

[FestYboy]

I'm thinking more of spring perch clearance, but if we're going that far, a version of your suspension would likely be involved and eliminate a lot of that problem.

[Advancedynamix]

Yeah, that's not a problem. Just chop the shafts of some stock fitment KYBs about 5 inches and chop the spring perches and run the small body sleeves and 1 7/8 springs. The stock shocks have more room that way than the VW shocks I'm running now. The valving is softer, but it's not too bad.

[Advancedynamix]

Arty, I'm surprised you haven't done the MK1 vw shock mod yet, you probably have an extra set of scirroco shocks kicking around somewhere. Lol

[mikemounlio]

So i have been super happy with how my car handles so far! I have not gotten the suspension proper since i got it all together. I never got the camber in the rear. The camber in the front was always just whatever by eyeball.

Advancedynamix if you can recall the setup that i have done- Is there anything else i should look into or do to my setup to have the best track ability i can get? With my b6t and new turbo (haha if it ever runs) will be more then to much but hey i like messing with stuff so why not right.

[Advancedynamix]

Get a camber gauge off ebay. You can also use a digital level if you can find a way to place it flat on the wheel face. The camber gauges are easier to use. It's a tool you'll be happy to have.
The next problem I can forsee with your setup is your car will be very unbalanced when you heat up your front tires. The difference in grip will cause the car to want to oversteer badly when driven even close to the limit. Your going to want to balance out your traction. I'd look for a set of 13x6 wheels and buy some 185/60-13 Yokahama A048r tires for the rear of your car. You don't want anything wider because the rears won't build enough heat (the back of the car is too light to utilize a wide tire). They don't sell the NT01 in a 185/60-13 in this country. The A048r is the closest match, with the Toyo R888 being your second best choice.
Ultimately, you'll really benefit from moving your engine up 2.125 inches and installing a g series transmission. Moving that engine weight forward is like entering a cheat code in a video game. The difference in corner entry speeds, high speed stability and grip are amazing. You can throw all the HP you want at this chassis, but all that HP will be useless if you can't put it to the ground at your apex. The extra pressure on the front wheels is critical.

[mikemounlio]

I will be using my stock daily tires for now. The 205 nt01 is to much for how low i am. I dont want to have to pull the fenders to rund them. I will be going to the toyyo r888 in their 185 14 size. But that is in some time. Right now i need to get the car going again.

[Advancedynamix]

Makes sense.

[drddan]

Get a camber gauge off ebay. You can also use a digital level if you can find a way to place it flat on the wheel face. The camber gauges are easier to use. It's a tool you'll be happy to have.
The next problem I can forsee with your setup is your car will be very unbalanced when you heat up your front tires. The difference in grip will cause the car to want to oversteer badly when driven even close to the limit. Your going to want to balance out your traction. I'd look for a set of 13x6 wheels and buy some 185/60-13 Yokahama A048r tires for the rear of your car. You don't want anything wider because the rears won't build enough heat (the back of the car is too light to utilize a wide tire). They don't sell the NT01 in a 185/60-13 in this country. The A048r is the closest match, with the Toyo R888 being your second best choice.
Ultimately, you'll really benefit from moving your engine up 2.125 inches and installing a g series transmission. Moving that engine weight forward is like entering a cheat code in a video game. The difference in corner entry speeds, high speed stability and grip are amazing. You can throw all the HP you want at this chassis, but all that HP will be useless if you can't put it to the ground at your apex. The extra pressure on the front wheels is critical.

:thumbleft:

[bravekozak]

Which Rio parts do I need?
Number 15, costs $25 each.

[Advancedynamix]

0K30A34390C

[mikemounlio]

What would be a good tire psi to start out on? on the econo tires that is.

[ryanprins13]

Advanced Suspension Mods

What would be a good tire psi to start out on? on the econo tires that is.

Depends what kind of a track your on and how you wanna drive it. Im going to assume paved, so high pressure (max listed on sidewall or higher) reduces your sidewall flex and will make the centre of the tire bulge slightly. Lower pressure means you have more sidewall flex, and sidewalls arent quite the best thing to skid around corners on. but the tires heat themselves up more at lower pressure and may grip a little better. Too low and the tire can cup up a little in the middle though as opposed to bulging at high pressure. Slight though, may not make a difference on the track. Cheap tires tend to tear themselves apart, come off the bead, rip sidewalls easier at low pressure than they will burst or separate tread at high pressure.
Best bet is to try both. Find a spot with some curves or a track, try it at 50 psi, 32psi and 15 psi. See what you like. What the max rating on your tires?
Thats for cheap, high sidewall, stock tires. Low profile tires or slicks are different when it comes to pressure.
I personally keep the tires on all my vehicles at max sidewall pressure. That doesnt reduce traction much from door sticker pressure that i have noticed and gives a much better feel when driving because of the tall sidewalls. It also keeps the tires cooler and they maybe last longer as a result.

[Advancedynamix]

^ what he said.

I ran the Achilles at 30 hot on the track, but that's a road coarse in 95 degree dry heat. Autocross is a different ball game. You'll probably want 4 psi more in the front than the back. Don't run 15psi on the front, your too front heavy for that. It'll take some practice and testing to nail it down.