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Charlie, you do amazing work!Barbie Car - '90 L-plus_2nd Gen SOHC B6+rear turbo @ 8 psi
Festycul - '9? 5spd_full roll cage, completely gutted, hydro g-series, B6T @ 15psi, rocketchip ecu,Willwood master cylinder, Mit. Galant VR-4 rotors, Hawk racing pads, capri knuckles, 323 LCA's, BrideLow Max seats, 5pt. harness, lexan windows, fuel cell, aluminum radiator, 323 coilovers
Elvis - '93 L 5spd_B3+T build in progress
WhiteGirl - '93 GL Immaculate shape, deciding what to build with it?
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Originally posted by moz View PostSir, I take my hat off to you.
At first all I saw was genius... but now I clearly see PASSION...
Very inspiring. Don't ever leave our community.
If it were a sport, you'd be MVP.Originally posted by Festevil3 View PostCharlie, you do amazing work!
Originally posted by bhazard View PostCharlie, I will be running an automatic. So I will be able to preload things a LITTLE bit at the light.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Alright Charlie I've got a question for you, why do my tires rub on the spring perches? There's a solid 1"+ gap between the tire and the spring perch, even though I'm in the negatives with my camber.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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tire roll over... (aka sidewall deflection)Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Matt, if you are referring to your back tires hitting the perches, that is from the rear suspension articulating. Could happen from body roll or even simply going over large uneven bumps like the entryway to driveways and such. If it's not causing any tire damage (just rubbing paint off the perches) then I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's damaging your tires then it may be time for smaller tires or a 1 7/8 coilover conversion.
If they are rubbing in the front then something is wrong, if you have an inch of clearance then that should stay consistent throughout the range of movement. Tires do roll over, as Arty mentioned, but it would take a lot of sidewall flex to move the top of the tire in 1". My slicks don't even do that and they are bias ply.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostAlright Charlie I've got a question for you, why do my tires rub on the spring perches? There's a solid 1"+ gap between the tire and the spring perch, even though I'm in the negatives with my camber.
Sent from somewhere west of here via Tapatalk!Ian
Calgary AB, Canada
93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite
"It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)
Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog
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Originally posted by fastivaca View PostAssuming we're talking about rear susoension it may not be rubbing on the perches. There's a large tab of metal and plastic where the bumper attaches to the body work. I had tires rub at that spot with about the same clearance you have at the perch.
Sent from somewhere west of here via Tapatalk!
That might be where its comming from in the front, but all of my rear tires are getting into the perch lol, I can see rubber on it!! I'll check the fronts when I get out of work. It only rubs when I'm in a really hard corner, the kind where you think the next course of action is sliding off the road.
Hopefully this weekend pans out and I get some 195/45/14 t1r proxies, they'll allow me to lower more and have a wider tire. The only problem is the width but I'll figure that out when I get there.
The Rio struts are 18" tall from the lip on the upper spring perch to the bottom of the strut, Festiva struts are 17 1/2" tall measured from the same points. From the lip on the upper perch to the mating surface of the top mount on a Rio strut its 2 7/8", the Festiva struts are 2 1/2" on one side and 2 7/8" on the other, I guess that's the built in camber adjustment from stock top mounts. Anyway, the Rio springs feel great, I measured them and used an online calculator, the rate is somewhere between 160/175lbs.
What I don't understand is how high the car will sit with Rio springs on Festiva struts. Is that all just trial and error, the "unsprung" weight you refer to where the weight of the car makes the stock springs squat? I was thinking about knocking the lower strut mount loose, and sliding it up to "lower" the car without loosing high speed compression dampening in the strut...but it can't be done with Rio struts because the base is beveled in and skinnier where the lower mount is attached.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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When a rear trailing beam suspension articulates, the distance will change between the the top of the tire and the shock. Your tires are lightly contacting the shock most likely during body roll, but it will also happen when going over large, uneven bumps. If the tires aren't showing any damage, then I wouldn't worry about it. I have rubber marks all over the insides of my fenders in the back, and on the beam and the springs too. This is from 100+ mph corners with bias ply slicks. Just lets me know I'm taking advantage of any and all the space in those tiny fender wells.
Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-20-2013, 10:02 PM.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Zoom zoom,
I have rio springs on festiva struts. Had to cut 1.5 coils off or else the car sat with the struts topped out. You can cut more if you want it to sit lower. It is about 2 inches of clearance running 175/65R14.
HULi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------> Any-where, any-way, any-time.
"CL4P-TP" - 93 Festiva L
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New Tip: For those of you who are using VW mk2 struts and Kia rio strut mounts, and don't have access to a lathe to turn the shaft down to fit snugly in the bearing or make a sleeve I have a new trick to center and secure the strut into the bearing. Use 14x1.5mm tapered lug nuts with the taper side toward the bearing, torque to 50ft/lbs and then install the other nut over the lug nut as a lock nut. Here's a part number for open ended 14x1.5mm lug nuts. Dorman 611-110.1 98949.1. They are usually in stock at pep boys. If you want to add a nice performance look to the package you can also but some 14mm "tuner" lug nuts in funky colors off ebay. I don't endorse Chinese aluminum lug nuts to hold your wheels on, but these fasteners aren't under much load so I don't see a problem here. Make sure they are 14x1.5mm though.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostOkay, it's been awhile since I have updated this, but I have some exciting stuff to add. I have been developing an adjustable rear toe and camber system that is working well. I didn't take pictures of the latest prototypes before I installed them, but I will get some pictures soon. This car is responding very well to more and more negative camber.
Now that I have the cars balance pretty well nailed down, and I have optimized the setup with the stickiest DOT legal track tire I could get to fit under the car (185/60/13 Toyo Proxes R888 ) it's time for the next stage.
Team Dynamics U.K. has made me some custom 13x7" wheels with a 35mm offset. I had to use 10mm hubcentric spacers in the front to clear the knuckles (where the strut mounts) and I had to grind a little material off my strut mounting tabs (it wasn't supporting anything). The goal here was to run 20.5x7" racing slicks without rubbing, and It works pretty well. There is a little rub when the suspension is bottomed out (as seen in above picture) but it's not bad and may go away with less tire pressure. Since these Hoosiers are bias ply tire they stretch a little more than a radial with air pressure. I am starting out with 50psi.
Why go to all the trouble to mount these tires on my car? Well, these slicks grip about twice as well as my R compound DOT legal tires and they are much cheaper. They might wear faster than the DOT tires, but they may not because I was over working the DOT legal race tires pretty bad. Time and testing will tell. Another huge benefit to this setup is that it's extremely light. My wheel and tire together only weigh 20.5 lbs.
My initial impression of this setup after some street testing (I do not recommend that anyone drive their car on the street with non DOT approved tires, I'm an idiot, lol). This is unreal! I just did a quick n' dirty suspension setup and alignment for the tires and I can't believe how well this car handles even with cold slicks. Everything has improved dramatically (I did not try them in the rain, and will do my best to never try that), they are even pretty comfortable, though they do have some road noise.
P.S. Nice ride.. was also wondering if you are still making kits to swap into our rides at all.. this sounds insane having the comfort of a car that is easily in another league as i'd be quite interested.Last edited by jawbraeka; 05-25-2013, 06:54 PM.Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)
Avg Economy:
Highway - 7.32L/100km
City - yet to be determined.
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