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my rear disc brakes
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Protege LX/4wd Protege/escort GT rear calipers have e-brake actuators built in, all you have to do is run cables.
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What year Capri??Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostPeople on here may already know this, but Capri rear discs fit right on Festiva stub axes, but then you are left with the 4x4.5" B/C. I still think there are lots of great wheel choices in that pattern though (may favorite O.Z. wheels are cheap in that pattern). I was just going to use that setup with some wilwood 2 piston calipers and a hydro hand brake, but I've had great luck with my drums.
Great idea with the machined drum, I bet the Miata rear brakes would work for this too, and they are available in 2 piece rotors from wilwood.
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Adjustable hydraulic valves that you plumb into the rear brake line are available from Jegs or Summit Racing so you can set the rears the way you want them. I have one on my Mustang. I don't want the rears to lock up on a hard slowdown [car is very light in rear] because it spins me out quick.
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People on here may already know this, but Capri rear discs fit right on Festiva stub axes, but then you are left with the 4x4.5" B/C. I still think there are lots of great wheel choices in that pattern though (may favorite O.Z. wheels are cheap in that pattern). I was just going to use that setup with some wilwood 2 piston calipers and a hydro hand brake, but I've had great luck with my drums.
Great idea with the machined drum, I bet the Miata rear brakes would work for this too, and they are available in 2 piece rotors from wilwood.
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I really don't know, are they hollowed inside with brake shoes that expand out on the inside of the rotor like Chrysler minivan rear disk brakes? If they are I would think the whole rear axel setup would need swapped, but thereto again, I don't know.Originally posted by DriverOne View PostCan you tell me if the VW Golf brakes will work? They have 4x100 and e-brake built in.
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Ops, I have forgotten about the brake rotor - it also adds some offset since it's between the drum and the wheel.Originally posted by russian View PostOn the one hand, you add a 1/4 inch plate between the beam and the axle stub/spindle. On the other hand, you remove drum disk back plate, which is maybe 1/8 or a bit less around the axle stub.
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As I said, not my idea - this was done by Stevo back in 2004.Originally posted by Bert View PostIf I understand right discs grab better than drums. Now that you've figured out a cheap and ingenious way of putting them in the back have you had to play with the brake proportioning valves at all?
Neat idea you have there.
As for proportion - good point, but I comfort myself by the fact that fronts are also not stock. Also I am going to use sporty pads on the front with regular pads on the back.
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If I understand right discs grab better than drums. Now that you've figured out a cheap and ingenious way of putting them in the back have you had to play with the brake proportioning valves at all?
Neat idea you have there.
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I would be more inclined to do this type of brake conversion as I live in an area made of hills, and I'm a teenage boy so I need my oversteer barOriginally posted by DriverOne View PostCan you tell me if the VW Golf brakes will work? They have 4x100 and e-brake built in.
Kellen
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Can you tell me if the VW Golf brakes will work? They have 4x100 and e-brake built in.Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostIf anyone's interested I know a guy who's got a couple sets of old/used aspire drums that could be cut up for this. Of course, he wouldn't be responsible for what you did with them. Feel free to pm me.
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