Aspire swap done, having some issues

[skeeters_keeper]

Well my aspire swap is finally all on... took long enough for me to finish it, and had a few issues along the way. now i'm having more..

i put the rear on first, and drove it for like 2 days like that. Rattled a little, fixed that. Seemed to handle much better on corners so i was happy. ebrake even works now! the brake seemed a bit squishier though.. i figured i'd blead the lines a but more later.

then 2 days later i did the fronts. bent my stinkin tierod end, replace the whole steering rack with one from carbonVmax. taht was a pain too, but i got it done. new tierod ends, lubed the balljoints, new calipers, etc. everything goes on easily, drive it a bit. verrry squishy brakes. blead more and more. and more. still seem squishy. any ideas on that one? just keep bleading?

after i had just finished the swap i drove it some, and it pulled right and vibrated some at higher speeds. had an alignment done and it doesn't pull right any more, but i ahve the 60-70mph shakes! i never really had them before. what oculd be causing this? i'm going to try swapping the tiers from the front to the back, to see if the steering wheal still vibrates. if it doesn't that i'll have those two balenced. if it does i'm not sure whats up.


also, i don't seem to have much traction... with 175/70R13s up front on aspire steelies. i expected to not be able to spin the tires very easily. seems just as easy/easier to spint them now and i seem to brake loose on hard corners a lot too..

well, if i can get my brakes working right and the vibrations gone it will be a nice swap

[packrat427]

Quoted from Mechanicaldj...
you start with the right rear then the left rear, right front and last the left front (longest line first, shortest line last)

Try that

[mechanicaldj]

Quoted from Mechanicaldj...
you start with the right rear then the left rear, right front and last the left front (longest line first, shortest line last)

Try that

and i have figured out, i was wrong

start with Lt front - rt rear - rt front - Lt rear


and as for the shakes-

try re-balancing the front tires and look for tread groove abnormalities

[skeeters_keeper]

What is the logic behind the brake bleading? I have never heard of this before, but will give it a shot.

I will also swap the tires around now... see if that fixes the problem. I was woried maybe i did something to the axle, but i didn't actually remove them from the trany and they are torqued on right so I'm thinking not.

thanks!

wow, i just read my first post. talk about spelling mistakes galore! well, i'm a math major....... ops:

[mattswabb]

Are they spongy or will they pump up and then feel stiff?

Spongy = air

If the rears are not adjusted or the adjusters aren't working then they need to travel too far and this means more pedal travel. Are all the rotors new? If they are warped then the pistons are pushed out further and require more pedal travel.

Did you bleed the master cylinder 1st?

[skeeters_keeper]

They are spongy, dont' pump up. if i push it far enough down (3-4"?) it gets stiff and i can lock them up if i push real hard. So i geuss its just air.

I loosened the adjusters up in the rear when i had them apart, but then it was like 3 weeks till i put it on. however when i took the drums off the rear it looked like they had adjusted themselves.

i do belive one of the rotors may be worped (JY rotors and pads, not turned), slight pulsing in the pedal when its pushed down hard enough.

i didn't blead the master cylender first, i didn't think i had let the fluid run out of it but i may be wrong. i'll check that too.


thanks

[oldgrezmonke]

unless you swapped in an anti-lock brake system , pulsation in the pedal is an indication of warped rotors. if they are badly warped they could also contribute to the vibration. the thing with the longest line first is that the more line , the more possible air trapped.

[skeeters_keeper]

OK, i swapped the 175's to the rear and the 165's to the front, vibration almost compleatly gone. the 175's do rub in the rear over bumps in the road though. specially when we had 6ppl in the car... :roll:
the pulsating in the pedal was only slightly noticable, i blead the brakes more and swapped the wheals around and checked up on things, everything looks fine. neither of the rotors looks warped (no real shiny spots that look like their rubbing) and the brakes worked better a lil, still sinks quite a bit but then grabs hard. now, though, there isn't just a pulsing but there is a large "clunking" noise when braking. starts out real fast and then slows down as the car slows down, i'm guessing one of the rotors must really be worped but i'm not sure... clunking?? any way i'm going to look into it more. as it clunks the pedal moves up and down, and it only occurs under braking.

also, on the way to the hospital yeasterday one of my friends was folowing me (other budy ditched my mini-bike and needed stitches). and i thought i was crusing @ 70, he said i was doing 85ish when we got there. i na 55. oops. so today i had my friend w/ an R6 ride next to me on the hwy, read around 75 when i was doing 65 and 35 when i was doing 30... tirecalc says it should only be 4.6% off (165/70-13's up front right now).

thanks!

[25Horseplay]

Use this calculator to help figure out speedometer difference with tire size.

http://www.net-comber.com/tirecalc.html

[Safety Guy]

I have 165/70-13s on Luxstiva. Shouldn't be more than 2 to 3 mph difference at those highway speeds.

Get new rotors!!
They should be around $30 shipped or less from Rockauto for medium-good quality PG Plus rotors (about $12 each). I've had no problems with mine.

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Hey Nate, do you have manual or auto Aspire brakes in front?

Karl

[skeeters_keeper]

auto brakes from the aspire.

will pick up rotors later today i hope, or at least order them.

[oldgrezmonke]

"clunking" are your brakes missing the anti-rattle hardware?

[ajb999]

^^^ good call. i just noticed mine starting to rattle on the front drivers side sometimes when i hit a bump/pothole and i'm missing that little bent wire piece that keeps them in place. anyone know where to get one? every festiva at the junkyard around here is missing rims and most of everything that goes w/ the brakes.

[oldgrezmonke]

^^^ good call. i just noticed mine starting to rattle on the front drivers side sometimes when i hit a bump/pothole and i'm missing that little bent wire piece that keeps them in place. anyone know where to get one? every festiva at the junkyard around here is missing rims and most of everything that goes w/ the brakes.

ask for a front brake hardware kit at your local parts house. that should have that and other stuff also that may have been damaged or just plain left off over time before you got the car. in the meantime use some cotter pins or wire to hold those pins in so they can't work out=no brake!