We couldn't even get it to lock in. It would line up and go in just enough that it was that 1/8"+ away from the bolt going in.
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So essentially If I milled this down, it should go in? The reason why I'm asking is because finding just that joint will be a miracle and a half.
Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
There seems to be enough material, havent tried it though. That area is designed to collapse in a crash i think?
I may have another universal joint here somewhere. Cant find it right now but lmk if machining doesnt work and i'll dog deeper.
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~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
Did the Rio rack swap in my 91 and I'm getting some knocking/popping from the universal joint also. If I put it in the air and cycle the rack back and forth it only does it when turning right. I've slid the column up as far as the slots will allow and I have room to adjust the top universal up and down. The bottom universal seems to be down as far as it'll go so not sure what my exact problem is unless my universal is just shot. Did the swap a few days before madness and it didn't start doing this till I was leaving on Sunday.
Edit: Of course as soon as I post this I find the problem. The rubber boot that come out of the firewall and covers the lower joint got pushed out of place during the install. The universal is "grabbing" it when it rotates to the right. The popping is the boot snapping back after the universal turns far enough to release it.
Just read the whole thread. Looks like this is a pretty involved project for driveway work.
And the oreillys part mentioned is out of stock.
I just did mine in the driveway about a week ago. Not too bad. Just a Kia Rio Rack and Festiva inner and outer tierod ends.
Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
If you are getting your rack from a U-pull-it, grab the rubber excluder boot and plate from inside the Rio.
The boot is shorter and will make for a "Pro" installation.
Also, how does one determine if your rack is alloy or steel?
Quick test is with a magnet.
In general, 90+ Cars are Alloy, 88/9 are steel
Will Samet
JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)
JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)
1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.
How to find me:
Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
Feel free to PM me anytime!
Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET
Also, how does one determine if your rack is alloy or steel?
Turn the wheel to the right where all the length of the rack goes to the driver side, unbolt the rack then slide it to the drivers side until the tie rod end comes out of the spot/hole in the frame where the rack pokes through, tilt rack beneath the car and pull it out from the passenger side. Sorry if that's a really bad description but it's hard to explain in text, hahaha. You don't have to drop the subframe.
Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
Turn the wheel to the right where all the length of the rack goes to the driver side, unbolt the rack then slide it to the drivers side until the tie rod end comes out of the spot/hole in the frame where the rack pokes through, tilt rack beneath the car and pull it out from the passenger side. Sorry if that's a really bad description but it's hard to explain in text, hahaha. You don't have to drop the subframe.
So from what I've seen ALL 88s are steel, and SOME 89s are Aluminum. My 89 had an aluminum rack. Must of been a brackish year.
Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
So from what I've seen ALL 88s are steel, and SOME 89s are Aluminum. My 89 had an aluminum rack. Must of been a brackish year.
Yea, I have heard of some 89 having aluminum. That's my "in general" disclaimer [emoji16]
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Will Samet
JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)
JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)
1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.
How to find me:
Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
Feel free to PM me anytime!
Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET
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