My Build Thread

[kellen302]

Because the Protege BP is a small nose crank I didn't have to undo the Crank Bolt, yay. I got the pass side axle out (no clip because of int. shaft) I'll get the driver's side this weekend maybe... Trying to figure out best approach with limited tools...

[kellen302]

Long Time no update. Been busy with college apps and an essay that I should be writing right now... I got mount blanks from zoom zoom. Checked the tires on the protege and they're a little too tall, 195/60-R14s and on my driveway I get a fair amount of compression on the suspension. The 12s are wearing out so I'll hit up PnP for some cheapo 13s when I get the $$. A Quick confirmation from yall, the Kia Rio axles from a 5spd Rio 2001, will fit for my G25MR and stock hubs? I know the spline count is right, and IIRC I need to get a the Rio pass. side axle and the Capri XR2 Driver's side axle.

[kellen302]

I'll order these this weekend probably, as far as I can tell from the search feature this'll work. I was just hoping for a little clarification. Thanks

[kellen302]

Well it leaks a bit of water, I had noticed that it was getting up to operating temperature and the heater was working on my drive to school (8 miles country driving @ 40* F) so I checked the water and sure enough it was about a half gatorade bottle low in the radiator and the burp tank was empty. I filled it up and am now wishing I had a spare engine... Oh wait I do!!!! time to get kickin on the BP swap again. For all those who wish to know, this is the second head and gasket the motor has had according to the PO and there is a few drops of oil in the water, no water in the oil however. The PO probs just didn't get the block decked when he did the HG.

[zoom zoom]

Wish I could help you more, but I don't have a festiva to put a bp in.. yet. I don't know what it will take for your axels and transmission to fit. Keep us posted though, I do check up on this thread!

[kellen302]

Didn't think one axle stub could destroy all of my motivation...

[kellen302]

Went and beat 2 chisels into the gap between axle and transmission for an hour... still nothing. The chisel on top hit the axle and was partially flattened. Anybody know how hard it is to drill through the axle cup? I could probably put a bolt through and pull it out with a tow strap and a festiva.

[zoom zoom]

You don't want to do that if you plan to reuse that transmission. Your going about this the wrong way, hopefully you haven't cracked the housing yet.

You need a clean straight pull on the axel, a slide pull hammer works for a lot of people after you figure out a way to rig it to that cv cup. It's not hard to drill a hole in the side, I used a grinder to cut a slit in one.

[kellen302]

I don't have a slide hammer, but was thinking I could use a tow strap and attach it to the axle through a hole or bolt, and give it a couple of tugs. Straight as possible of course.

[zoom zoom]

You can, that might work, but I wouldn't suggest it any more than beating a chisel in between there. The transmission is out of the car, still attached to the engine? How you you propose to keep it held steady and not end up being dragged by the car? What your after is a "Sharp rap" to dislodge the circlip from the other side of the spider gear, and get it started the first 3/16" further than it will go right now, not a hard tug with slop in the mix. After a good "Sharp rap" that gets it started through the spider it will slide out, or back in if your not careful, very easily.

Rent a slide pull hammer from autozone, advance, napa?? Any mcpaRts store with a loan a tool program. It might cost 80$ or more but you get a full refund when you return it. If you somehow did manage to secure the case hard down, you might even end up ripping the whole differential out of the side of the case, that aluminum is tough, but its not THAT tough.

[zoom zoom]

How's it comming? I pulled two axels today, didn't use anything more than a harbor freight prybar (http://www.harborfreight.com/17-inch...sel-98257.html) a large size ball peen hammer for the first axel. The second one I beat and banged on for almost an hour. My neighbor came home and I borrowed a 2lb sledge off him and got it out in 3 whacks. Maybe you just need a bigger hammer?

[kellen302]

Maybe, right now it get's dark around 3:30 or 4:00 and it's about 40*F I got a lead on getting a slide hammer (The only Napa on the South End of the Island doesn't rent tools, really getting sick of living on an island. I've passed my window of opportunity and it'll have to wait until next year sometime due to College applications and HS Graduation requirements.

[kellen302]

Now that college applications are finished and I'm just waiting for acceptances. I got a slide hammer, but the trees and weather are threatening the death penalty for being outside. Cal Poly sounds really nice right now, year round work-outside climate. Thanks to zoom, once I start building the mounts, all I have to do is bolt the blanks to the transmission, and level it where it needs to go in the 'bay, then mark where holes go to bolt to the car/existing mounts. Seeing as I can't do this right now and really wish I could I'll just throw a question out there; are the differences between cars too great to enable somebody posting the measurements on where the engine and transmission need to sit in relation to the existing mounts, eg. "The rear transmission mount needs to be 6.5" from the center of the existing mount bolt hole to the bolt hole on the transmission"?
Thanks heaps

[kellen302]

Changed the oil yesterday... 39.12$ later, and at 5200miles since the previous one, oil still wasn't too dark. I think the small oil leak is a VC gasket, one of the rubber grommets disintegrated so a corner bolt isn't providing adequate torque me thinks. Not gonna worry about it now with the BP waiting for me.

[kellen302]

Opened the Protege that's been sitting out all winter, to find about four inches of fetid water in the rear passenger footwell and a layer of mold on anything that will grow it... Needless to say I just closed it right back up and am hoping I won't need anything more out of the interior for the BP swap and it will go peacefully to the scrapper over the summer. So yea, seeing as I'm still trapped inside because of the weather if anybody is able to throw out some measurements on the ANY Gseries mounts, I'm using the 2pieces of angle iron on the front mount and a couple plates on the rear mount, but since I can't do any work right now I can "bench race" and plan things out. Also because it's kind of a pain to get anything level it would be nice to have some rough idea of where the transmission has to sit in the engine bay before I disable the festy in the spring.