Aspire BP swap

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I haven't, ill definately take that into consideration though. For sure, its a hydraulic tranny, so its clocked different, some adjustments might still be necessary...like having the bracket planed/milled to make it work, but that would still be better than my last attempt at welding cast iron!

[nitrofarm]

Man I cant believe how far forward the Rio LCA is? Does the Rio knuckle correct this? Also you are running a Hydro Tranny,what are you going to do for a cable setup?

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It's the xr2 cable transmission, not the egt/protege hydro tranny!

The rio lca was just for comparitive purposes, I'm not using it, and no, the rio knuckle doesn't do anything to correct it, it's just a different design in the kia's lca box(mounting point) that makes it work for them.

Soon I'll be posting pics of the kia axels working in my car, so keep your eyes peeled for that lol.. I'm also wondering what the Kia SephiA jackshaft and axel lengths are..

[bhazard]

Sephia stuff is probably the same as EGT/PLX, I think the Sephia is a BG chassis isnt it?

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Yea, but I was wondering how their gearbox was "clocked" or whatever, if it's like a hydro or cable clutch tranny.. Kia does some weird stuff, I'm still trying to puzzle out this rio box.

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so got some stuff done, old timing belt is on for now, hopefully I'll get a new one before everything is said and done, but I wanted something on it for now incase.....not gonna say it.


my car looked like this for awhile yesterday..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0436.jpg

I first started with the engine mount, I used the stock b3 mount, stole the idea from eurotiva..
I had to go buy 3x 3/8"x1 1/2" NPT galvanized Male couplings (which will need replaced with something with thicker walls soon, but these work as temp) to space the block bracket off the block 1 1/2" to clear the timing belt.. and a couple 12mmx 3" shoulder bolts (grade 8.8) they needed some shaved off the ends to fit right, but I eventually got it lol..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0428.jpg

had to ream out the holes on the mount to bring it closer to the passenger frame rail

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0429.jpg

Also had to ream out the holes on the body mount bracket to space it back even further than that, the outside stud on the engine bracket ended up hitting the brace on the mount so it wouldn't go any further.. I also had to shave down 3 bolt heads on the body bracket..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0427.jpg

then I moved on to the front tranny mount, i used a piece of 1 1/2"x3/16th angle iron, set a level on the engine side to side on the VC, and drilled the holes...had to do some grinding to clear some bumps and stuff.

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0423.jpg

used another piece, and cut it down to size opposite the first mount..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0424.jpg

and welded those two together..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0433.jpg

the weld on the backside barely cleared the transmission..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0426.jpg

rolled the car out and did the rear tranny mount, it's just two 3/16ths plates going from the mount to the transmission.. very hard to see or get a picture of..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0439.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/Untitled.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0430.jpg

So then... as instructed by Advancedynamix, I took the springs off the struts, jacked the front end way up, and installed the struts w/o springs, and plugged the axels into the diff... I used a jack to raise and lower the knuckle the full extent of the struts range of motion and checked for binding at the CV's.. I didn't hear anything unusual, aside from a dry transmission case. I can fully depress the struts, and grab the midshaft, and it's got right about 1/8"-3/16" of play in it, not much, but it's definately not in a bind, so I think it should be good to go!..

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0438.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0437.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0436.jpg

As seen here, the passenger side had some issues, I have to shave a little off the block plate where it sticks out...it was made for an auto tranny, even sticks out a bit in the front.

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/BP%20Engine%20Install/SAM_0448.jpg

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Alright, time to pick this up again. I'm starting a new job next month so I want to get as much done with this car and around the house as I can before I leave. I've been working on it for the last couple weeks and there's still a lot more to do but ill cover the basics of the work done so far.

First pic is of the wiring mess I started with 2-3 weeks ago. I ended up splicing a total of 12 wires from the stock small plug, one thick blue wire for coil power, and 2 others for tach signal and water temp in the cluster.

Second pic is my diagram for main and fuel pump relays, there's actually two wires comming off the main relay, one goes to FP, the other goes to the main power for engine management stuff, but for simplicity sake this is what it basically came out to....the one with a "?" Is wired straight to ground, the FP is constantly running as is.

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After I got all the wires spliced I just taped up the harness good enough to get by with for now.. got the ecu out and still need to run out the iat sensor wires and map sensor vacuum hose.

Second pic I ran the wires out in the engine bay, I've done this a few times but this time I took a new route thru the strut tower hole and had to cut it a bit larger to get the DLC box through.

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I had a couple people requesting pics of my rear mount, so I got a couple decent shots. For now this is all that's back there, I might later on add a.cross brace or something for more support, but these plates are pretty rigid, 3/16ths steel isn't easy to break.

Very simple, just two steel plates cut and drilled to fit.

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I removed the wiring harness from the engine bay for the starting and charging systems, got it wrapped and taped up.

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Ordered odds and ends parts from rockauto and eBay, new k9737 bushings, ngk vpowers, ngk plug wires, throttle body gasket, ...

Then I noticed that the mounts had settled or switching back to a b3 mount had screwed my alternator pulley/frame rail clearance, I had to beat it in, at first I tried a bench vice...it only worked a little.

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I absolutely don't want to have to pull the engine and transmission until I find somebody to paint the car, I've decided that crap is for the birds and I'm not attempting it myself.

So I pressed it some more.. it didn't do enough, I ended up getting a harbor freight air chisel and cutting off the chisel to make it a blunt face hammer. It took HOURS, but it finally does clear, by cms.

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After beating on the frame rail for a couple days, I bought a battery. It's massive. For now I want it in the engine bay, but it will be relocated as soon as I figure out if the car will run or not. I don't want weak power from long cables to be an issue when I start trying to troubleshoot why the car won't fire. Yea..I'm expecting issues.

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I used parts of the old battery tray and welded a tray to the top, its not pretty but it will work. I lined the bottom with corroplast I had laying around.

[crazyrog17]

Solid work man, nice!