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Aspire BP swap
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Ingram Barge Company screwed me and if it were up to them my family would be starving right now...
But I digress.
I'm back to work at my old job, at least for a couple months, or as long as I can deal with it. I just about got the exhaust done up, its 2" downpipe to cherrybomb, then 2 1/4" back to and over the axle, gotta go buy a thrush turbo muffler soon and finish it completely. I had to cut out my own flanges and maKe my own 90* bends, it a real piece of work but it should get the job done.
I suppose its about time for some royal purple, 10w30 conventional, and a battery?Last edited by zoom zoom; 04-20-2013, 12:19 PM.
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ZOOM whats up with this project? Just to busy? Hope your enjoying the new job btw...
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Had to do a LOT of running today to get things set up and papers faxed.for my new job, plus some other things, so I didn't get any time in the garage. I did run around and grab the intake pieces, cone filter, some vacuum hose plugs, and a new bypass line oring. Got all that put together and installed in about 15 minutes after getting home. The 60* bend, a blue coupling, extension pipe with plugged holes, and short cone filter fit like a glove. I don't like that its a 3" inlet tube but there's nothing I can do, its all the carry...stupid hondas and their 70mm TBs for a 150hp motor....
This thing really sets off the engine bay imo, a little paint, more yellow stuff and this might actually look good some day! I need to see if it will run first.
The guy at advance sold me on this 15$ of Lucas brake in oil additive, he said it has a high zinc % so it sticks better during break in. He said to also use a conventional oil instead of synthetic for break in? I dont.know, never.broke in an engine before...
Oh also snagged a blue crankcase breather filter! Hard to see but its there, the cone filter pretty much covers the mess of wires under it, I'm lovin it... Really, its starting to come together. Keep your fingers.crossed!Attached Files
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I wanted to put the much larger ATX Rad back in my Aspire last week when I completed my MTX Conversion. I ended up scraping the idea right away and put the MTX Rad in its place. There was some "Fitment" issues that I didnt think justified the larger Rad. and the hassle's that it required. So I just went with the smaller MTX unit. But I also rotated & lowered the engine tranny.Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostI think this is an auto radiator that was swapped into my manual parts car. There's really just not any room between the bp manifold and the radiator support/s. I need one that isn't as wide that won't even be between the manifold and support...then that battery box is going to be the next issue because it's only 4" back from the upper support. Also the stock fan is a solid 5-6" thick, so that would be touching the block/head/transmission mount/battery tray if I could even squeeze it in. I was really hoping I would have room to use a stock radiator, but now that I actually get it in there....no, it's just not possible for me to do it... I was even looking at ways to mount the fan on the front side of the radiator, and the headlights/hood latch just won't allow it.
That would be interesting though if you wanted to break out a tape measure and see if there's any differences in festiva and aspire engine bays ^.^
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I ran an a stock 5 speed aspire radiator and fan in mine before I was turbo and had no clearance issues
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Good to see your back in it zoom ill be watching to see how things turn out.
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The wideband came in today, it looks pretty sweet, I'm getting antsy wanting to drive this car. We'll see what happens when the radiator comes in next week. I gotta finish up a bunch of random stuff between now and then...
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I think this is an auto radiator that was swapped into my manual parts car. There's really just not any room between the bp manifold and the radiator support/s. I need one that isn't as wide that won't even be between the manifold and support...then that battery box is going to be the next issue because it's only 4" back from the upper support. Also the stock fan is a solid 5-6" thick, so that would be touching the block/head/transmission mount/battery tray if I could even squeeze it in. I was really hoping I would have room to use a stock radiator, but now that I actually get it in there....no, it's just not possible for me to do it... I was even looking at ways to mount the fan on the front side of the radiator, and the headlights/hood latch just won't allow it.
That would be interesting though if you wanted to break out a tape measure and see if there's any differences in festiva and aspire engine bays ^.^Last edited by zoom zoom; 02-22-2013, 01:30 AM.
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I wonder if the dif is the "how" the rad is mounted. I was looking at mounting a larger Aspire rad in my Festy.Then I realized how much differently they are mounted. I doubt the eng bay is shorter though. I have a Festy & Aspire gutted so I could measure them if you like. But I wouldnt be surprised if its the rad itself. Almost looks like a "Short" Festy rad would clear that Exhaust manifold...IDK. Anyway keep plugging away Bro,we all know its not always easy.Originally posted by zoom zoom View Postwhatcha mean? I can barely stick my finger between a stock brake line comming off the proportioning valve and the intake manifold...and side to side was determined by the axels when I was making the mounts...I think I can probably move it over a hair toward the driver side though.
this pic, I had the axels plugged in when I was making up the mounts. It was a very tedious job, I did it how advanceddynamics instructed testing axel lengths and all that with multiple jacks and a level...also shows the clearance from the steering rack to the transmission.
I'm thinking an aspire engine bay might be smaller than a festiva bay. I know the distance between the center of the strut towers is exactly the same, but it seems like I had to do alot more beating than all the BP/G festiva guys I've met.
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Glad to see your back ZOOM ! Congrats on the new job that your starting btw. And congrats on the Headlites! When you go to rewire that 97 Spire for a MTX conversion look me up.
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whatcha mean? I can barely stick my finger between a stock brake line comming off the proportioning valve and the intake manifold...and side to side was determined by the axels when I was making the mounts...I think I can probably move it over a hair toward the driver side though.Originally posted by bhazard View PostJeeze dude how far you got that engine mounted?
this pic, I had the axels plugged in when I was making up the mounts. It was a very tedious job, I did it how advanceddynamics instructed testing axel lengths and all that with multiple jacks and a level...also shows the clearance from the steering rack to the transmission.
I'm thinking an aspire engine bay might be smaller than a festiva bay. I know the distance between the center of the strut towers is exactly the same, but it seems like I had to do alot more beating than all the BP/G festiva guys I've met.Last edited by zoom zoom; 02-22-2013, 12:55 AM.
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Today I also got most of the vacuum hoses fixed up good enough to work for now. I need to figure out what to do about the coolant hose routing, there's a barb I don't know what to do about! I need to find out which way is in and out, bypassing the heater core. I have the oil cooler installed but for now I'm not worried about hooking it up or anything.
The shift linkage feels amazing, I can NOT wait to be able to actually use it. I'm rushing to get it done but there's still a LOTTTTT of work left. I ended up removing the bypass lines from the b3 and bp water pump things and used the bp line on the b3 housing for space constraints, the b3 housing doesn't stick out into the bumper.
I wanted a win, and today I got it...for all those wires I cut out of my stock harness, I STILL HAVE POWER TO THE HEADLIGHTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
major win here, tells me I did something right!Attached FilesLast edited by zoom zoom; 02-22-2013, 12:35 AM.
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