Aspire BP swap

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The original dull blue color was supposed to be Ford blue, but it was too dull for me. I'm not sure what color that is exactly, just the 500* high heat bright blue at autozone and advance.

It turned out really good for a rattle can job, I don't think I had any runs, rarely ever do with spray paint anymore, the problem now is I dont usually let it sit long enough to fully cure/harden, so I put a bolt in stuff and it chips the paint. We'll see how it stands the test of time, most of my paint jobs fail horribly, but I keep trying hoping someday it will turn out right.. I do a LOT of painting at work, on break from it right now actually, and it usually turns out good, I don't understand what I'm doing wrong, maybe its the difference between rattle cans and oil base.

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Something I'm curious about..

I've heard it said that the b series alternators are all the same size, and the size of the pulley is what determines the amperage, but the Fs series alternator I bought was advertised at 70 amps, even tho the bolt holes are the same distance apart, the fs alt is clearly bigger, and the v belt pulley is smaller than the 4 rib belt pulley I took off from my b3. Does this mean my old 60amp b3 alternator will be putting put less amps since the pulley is bigger? It will take more rotation of the crank to get one spin of the alternator.

[Damkid]

I think the pulleys are all the same and it's the internals that determine the amperage

[tls_zx3]

pulleys will not matter on amperage. other wise your amperage would either be to high at high rpm or to low at low rpm. it is the internals and the regulators in them that determine the amperage

[eurotiva]

I could be of some assistance with the megasquirt since I've had it on mine for 2 yrs and on my mustang for 5 yrs. But what do I know? I'm just a dumb redneck that drags his turbo all over the place. Good luck buddy

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pulleys will not matter on amperage. other wise your amperage would either be to high at high rpm or to low at low rpm. it is the internals and the regulators in them that determine the amperage

Yea good point, I hadn't thought about it like that.

I could be of some assistance with the megasquirt since I've had it on mine for 2 yrs and on my mustang for 5 yrs. But what do I know? I'm just a dumb redneck that drags his turbo all over the place. Good luck buddy

Haha, we all know who the dumb redneck here is... And I'll definately need some luck, so thanks!

[eurotiva]

Fast dumb redneck

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^.^

Is it bad that I can't wait to break my first tranny? It might take some torque to break mine tho. I wonder when the gearsets shatter/sheer off, or what the next weak link will be?

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Alright, so I think I've reached my first electrical issue. Right now I'm just going to run the stock injectors and everything stock just like I'm plugging into a 93 protege ecu, but I would like to use as much of the aspire harness as I can. It's pretty close to being the same, but stuff needs swapped and spliced.

What I'm looking at is the injector harness, the aspire and BP use different sockets, the plugs for vics and the egr on the far side of the manifold aren't the same, the injector sockets are, but the socket on the tranny side that plugs into the main harness is different.

What I'm thinking is I can unwrap both harnesses, compare, and splice/ repin the BP injector harness at the main harness to use the aspire socket. Then when the time comes to plug in the ecu I can repin the aspire socket for the BP ecu.

? Am I going about this the right way, I haven't done this before, so I really appreciate any advice you guys can give me here.

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The BP used batch fire in USDM models, California b6e models had sequential injection. 94-95 aspires used sequential injection according to the haynes manual page 12-23, and the 95 EVTM PG 23-3. What I need to do is repin the BP wires in the aspire socket so that the ground from the ecu for 1&3 matches with the ground wire for 1 on the aspire harness, 2&4 will go with the ground for 3 in the aspire harness.

Then match up the leads for the VICS, egr, temp sending unit, and the other sending unit I think is for the fan switch?

[Nerd Racing]

*cracks knuckles*

I used almost none of the aspire harness when I did my numerous swaps. you would be better off gutting a protege engine harness and starting with that. The large plug controls the engine and the small plug controls starting, charging, external loads...etc. I had a spreadsheet from my swaps. interested in a copy of it?

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Most definately.

If it comes down to that I might have to buy a protege harness, I tried to twice from cp.com and the deal fell thru on their end both times. I don't have any proteges in any local yards that I know of to get parts from, if I did, I'd get the whole harness inside and out, ill still end up using the main branch comming from the ecu won't I?

[Nerd Racing]

I got mine on cp.com. I'm having a member from there gut one for me for my carby festiva conversion to MS. pm me your email address and I'll send it to ya.

OR I can modify a harness for you for shipping and the cost of supplies + 1 meal if you find one for sale.

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matt_jr@rocketmail.com is my e-mail, let me try this first, its my first time, so you know I have to be hard headed and try it. I've cross referenced the ecu pinouts and have notes, its not too different from what I can tell, but the way the wires are ran under the hood is what I'm not sure of yet. The MAF vs VAF and subsequent deletion of it with megasquirt is a big concern, I don't know if wires need spliced to maintain a circuit or what. I'm really just trying to learn about these cars, hopefully I'll understand the how and why of it. At the end of the day tho, I know you know, and I will probably end up doing what you suggest after I fail.

[geezerstiva]

Not to thread jack, but do you know of anybody over there selling a bp harness and ecu? I need one if the price is right