Aspire BP swap

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I finally finished wrapping all my wires with that loom stuff, took 30 foot of 3/4" and 30 foot of 3/8", and all the engine bay wires are wrapped, I need some thicker stuff for main branches on the inside.. but there isn't more than 6" of the stuff left.

Went ahead and stuck a cluster in there, and the wiper stalk...

I was SERIOUSLY hoping to avoid a MESS like this, but it's my first time screwing with this junk, maybe next time it will turn out better. If this works I may go ahead and shrink up all the wires for a perfect fit instead of just wrapping it like it was stock.

[bhazard]

Re: Aspire BP swap

Jeeze dude how far you got that engine mounted?

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I tried to stick the stock radiator in today, didn't get far. I can't fathom how I would make this work, can't let it hang out the front because of the hood latch.

Ordered a honda dual core radiator and a slimfan today, should be in next week sometime. I'm expecting my plx dm6 to be in today (friday) so I can go ahead and get a little bit of the exhaust work done and get it installed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLX-Wideband-O2-Air-Fuel-Ratio-SM-AFR-V2-DM-6-Multi-Gauge-Touch-Screen-Kit-/271062572909?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1c969f6d&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-DUAL-CORE-2-ROW-RACING-RADIATOR-92-00-CIVIC-DEL-SOL-INTEGRA-EG9-EK9-EM1-/360574476043?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item53f3e9df0b&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-12-UNIVERSAL-SLIM-FAN-PUSH-PULL-ELECTRIC-RADIATOR-COOLING-12V-1730-CFM-NEW-/140806010029?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c8b134ad&vxp=mtr

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Not the best pics, but it's an idea of the sort of clearance I have on the alternator and crankshaft pullies..almost none. I think I'm gonna lift the transmission off the crossmember and slot the holes roughly 1/4" further toward the driver side, then check the driver and passenger side axels for binding again. I don't forsee any issues, just better clearance here.

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The new moog bushings came in, and I tested out the driver and passenger axels, again... 02 kia rio axels, some people have doubted them... they work. They should work fine when driving. I had the strut totally collapsed on both sides, no binding, and it didn't stretch to get into the hubs. We'll see what happens I suppose.

I went ahead and installed circlips and got them in. I figured out the best way to install into the tranny side is to push it in with the hub if you disconnect the lower ball joint much easier and better than splitting boots with a rubber mallet.

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thanks, I just want to find out if this is even gonna run or not...tempted to just scrap everything but the transmission and start fresh with a festiva. Next swap will be something so stupid simple a honda guy could do it...like a b6 in a aspire on aspire electronics! (future plans for babyspire, my new 97 auto)

anyway, more pics..

I went to the hardware store (4 times now for a total of about 70$ worth of new nuts and bolts) and picked up these nice 8mm mini head bolts to replace all the stock bay bolts... and shifter linkage bolts, I did what charlie did and drilled out the rods to accept a 12mm bolt, and one I ended up punching a brass sleeve through to take out the slop...no pics of that yet though.

While I was in there, they had this nice lookin toolbox with wheels I've been wanting for awhile. This was a floor model, I picked it up for cheap cheap

[crazyrog17]

Solid work man, nice!

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I used parts of the old battery tray and welded a tray to the top, its not pretty but it will work. I lined the bottom with corroplast I had laying around.

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After beating on the frame rail for a couple days, I bought a battery. It's massive. For now I want it in the engine bay, but it will be relocated as soon as I figure out if the car will run or not. I don't want weak power from long cables to be an issue when I start trying to troubleshoot why the car won't fire. Yea..I'm expecting issues.

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I absolutely don't want to have to pull the engine and transmission until I find somebody to paint the car, I've decided that crap is for the birds and I'm not attempting it myself.

So I pressed it some more.. it didn't do enough, I ended up getting a harbor freight air chisel and cutting off the chisel to make it a blunt face hammer. It took HOURS, but it finally does clear, by cms.

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Ordered odds and ends parts from rockauto and eBay, new k9737 bushings, ngk vpowers, ngk plug wires, throttle body gasket, ...

Then I noticed that the mounts had settled or switching back to a b3 mount had screwed my alternator pulley/frame rail clearance, I had to beat it in, at first I tried a bench vice...it only worked a little.

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I removed the wiring harness from the engine bay for the starting and charging systems, got it wrapped and taped up.

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I had a couple people requesting pics of my rear mount, so I got a couple decent shots. For now this is all that's back there, I might later on add a.cross brace or something for more support, but these plates are pretty rigid, 3/16ths steel isn't easy to break.

Very simple, just two steel plates cut and drilled to fit.

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After I got all the wires spliced I just taped up the harness good enough to get by with for now.. got the ecu out and still need to run out the iat sensor wires and map sensor vacuum hose.

Second pic I ran the wires out in the engine bay, I've done this a few times but this time I took a new route thru the strut tower hole and had to cut it a bit larger to get the DLC box through.

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Alright, time to pick this up again. I'm starting a new job next month so I want to get as much done with this car and around the house as I can before I leave. I've been working on it for the last couple weeks and there's still a lot more to do but ill cover the basics of the work done so far.

First pic is of the wiring mess I started with 2-3 weeks ago. I ended up splicing a total of 12 wires from the stock small plug, one thick blue wire for coil power, and 2 others for tach signal and water temp in the cluster.

Second pic is my diagram for main and fuel pump relays, there's actually two wires comming off the main relay, one goes to FP, the other goes to the main power for engine management stuff, but for simplicity sake this is what it basically came out to....the one with a "?" Is wired straight to ground, the FP is constantly running as is.