Aspire BP swap

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pulleys will not matter on amperage. other wise your amperage would either be to high at high rpm or to low at low rpm. it is the internals and the regulators in them that determine the amperage

Yea good point, I hadn't thought about it like that.

I could be of some assistance with the megasquirt since I've had it on mine for 2 yrs and on my mustang for 5 yrs. But what do I know? I'm just a dumb redneck that drags his turbo all over the place. Good luck buddy

Haha, we all know who the dumb redneck here is... And I'll definately need some luck, so thanks!

[eurotiva]

I could be of some assistance with the megasquirt since I've had it on mine for 2 yrs and on my mustang for 5 yrs. But what do I know? I'm just a dumb redneck that drags his turbo all over the place. Good luck buddy

[tls_zx3]

pulleys will not matter on amperage. other wise your amperage would either be to high at high rpm or to low at low rpm. it is the internals and the regulators in them that determine the amperage

[Damkid]

I think the pulleys are all the same and it's the internals that determine the amperage

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Something I'm curious about..

I've heard it said that the b series alternators are all the same size, and the size of the pulley is what determines the amperage, but the Fs series alternator I bought was advertised at 70 amps, even tho the bolt holes are the same distance apart, the fs alt is clearly bigger, and the v belt pulley is smaller than the 4 rib belt pulley I took off from my b3. Does this mean my old 60amp b3 alternator will be putting put less amps since the pulley is bigger? It will take more rotation of the crank to get one spin of the alternator.

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The original dull blue color was supposed to be Ford blue, but it was too dull for me. I'm not sure what color that is exactly, just the 500* high heat bright blue at autozone and advance.

It turned out really good for a rattle can job, I don't think I had any runs, rarely ever do with spray paint anymore, the problem now is I dont usually let it sit long enough to fully cure/harden, so I put a bolt in stuff and it chips the paint. We'll see how it stands the test of time, most of my paint jobs fail horribly, but I keep trying hoping someday it will turn out right.. I do a LOT of painting at work, on break from it right now actually, and it usually turns out good, I don't understand what I'm doing wrong, maybe its the difference between rattle cans and oil base.

[Movin]

Sweet!!
My photobucket has been doing strange things too, I crop pics then resize
to get the object in the center and big enough to see. then for a day or so
the original will be posted here..come back the next day and its the way
i intended it.

Is that real ford blue? You must have a few coats on that and no runs that
really looks good!!!

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Where else would it be!

Haha..yea, I just roll it in there when I want to work on it.

[Aspire SVT]

Is that thing in your kitchen!?

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Got a little more stuff done..

Still a lot more to do..

Drilled a pilot hole in the oil pan, and used different bits in increasing sizes to drill out the hole for the oil return in the oil pan. I gotta take it to work and use the drill press there with the final bit tho, Hopefully the oil pan will be going on soon and the water pump will get here. Gonna paint the fuel rail too someday. I don't know if I want to clean and paint the VC, or just buy an ebay one that's already powder coated.

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[QUOTE=zoom zoom,Apr 15 2012, 06:51 PM]ook, I did the plastigauge thing on the crankshaft, this is the results and some extra random pics..

I torqued the new studs to 20, then 40, then 60 ft lbs like the studs call for, and there was a LITTLE extra movement on some of the studs, so I think there's something not right there, and I'm not putting the crank in for good until I find out what i should do, I did what the papers with the studs said to do..

anyway, spec is .0007-.0014 with .004 being the service limit.





*edit, I resized these pics in my photobucket account, if they're big the server probably hasn't refreshed them or something, it's glitchy every time I do it..

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Also almost got the transmission together, I'm trying to locate new shaft locknuts but the parts stores are telling me they can't even find part numbers. Also having trouble sourcing a new gasket for the oil cooler and copper washers for the oil squirters.

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Started on the bottom end, I have pics but I don't feel like copy/pasting the links right now. I measured the endgaps for all the piston rings and matched them as evenly as I could. The top rings came out .008/.008/.008/.008 and the second rings came out .008/.008/.009/.009 I believe. Can't remember the oil ring specs atm, but they're gapped a little further apart, still in spec. Installed all the piston rings on the pistons and started installing the crankshaft. I measured the endplay on it with the new thrust assures and it came out .009", then I measured using the old thrust washers and it was the same exact result...and yes, I measured it 3 times to be sure, even used the .00025?(smallest one on my feeler gauge) and couldn't fit it in.

I started the plastigauge stuff, got all the sections cut and cleaned the crank journals for an hour and 45 minutes, got all the main bearings installed, and lubed the ARP studs and installed them in the block, the paper said finger tight in the block, so I did that and took about 1/8 turn on them with an Allen wrench to make sure they were seated good. I was going to torque the caps, but I had trouble locating my rubber mallet to help seat the main caps, by that time it was 9:30 pm and I wake up at 3am for work..so I called it a night.

[91mcnasty]

That's what me likes to hear

[bobbyspider]

Good progress bro