Aspire BP swap

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As some of you know, I've started removing my b3 from my Aspire, it's also been tore down to the shell on the outside, and the only things remaining is the suspension/seats/carpet/and dash, which will all come out eventually.

My plans are to turbo a BP and make about 200 hp with it, I know it's not going to be easy, but with time and your help, I think it can be done.

Let me be clear, I don't know what I'm talking about. That being said, please let me know if something I say is off, so I can do this right. Even with all the time I've put in researching on here and in books and on the web, mistakes are going to be made.

I've already done some things to the car, the list includes but is not limited to..

General Maintenance:
new speedometer, old one quit
new driver side drive axel
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
Regular Oil Changes every 3k-5k mi. (5w-20 in winter/5w-30 in summer)
Fixed front bumper (bottom was ready to fall off)
Headlight Lens Restoration with Maguiars Polishing Compound & kit
Patched fist sized hole in rear pillar plastic
New Lower Control Arms (driver AND passenger side)
Upgraded LCA bushings to Moog polyurethane bushings (K9737)
Driver Side Tie Rod End/balljoint
Freed up/Antiseized E-brake levers Replaced E-brake levers on driver side
New Drum Brake Spring kit on both sides
Tightened up Clutch Cable Flushed Coolant System, new 50/50 mix
Fixed Crossmember-Frame Mounting Bolt
Popped out fender dent & bondo'd
Cleaned/sanded and painted hubcaps
Painted Windshield Wiper Arms

........

Modifications:
02 Kia Rio front strut/spring swap
Cold Air Intake w/ custom corroplast box
Power Door Lock Actuators
Power hatch Actuator
Keyless Entry System
Aftermarket CD Player (looking to upgrade)
1000w Sony Xplod Amp
12" DVC Rockford Fosgate Sub
6" Xplod Speaker Upgrade in doors
Custom Dash Buttons, one toggles sub/amp, one toggles hatch popper
Keyless REMOTELESS Entry (top secret need marsec lvl 3 clearance)
Blue Dash Lights
Aftermarket Tachometer install
Aftermarket Vacuum Gauge
Painted rear half of interior Panels
Spare Tire delete

...........

Most of that can be seen in the build threads on fa.com
Old thread

http://fordaspire.5.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=5450

New Thread

http://aspire.b1.jcink.com/index.php?showtopic=53&st=0

And more pictures on my photobucket account, should be public, feel free to browse the pics..(let me know if this link fails)

http://m844.photobucket.com/albums/mykromisfit/?pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2YffSjcPOOj8bKv4KIHqRAD5LsvlKGOOcFNCaRrS904SLADGPX9IGtNY1FJ643c5xSvbD%2BV3pIw297KuM8tWWpuEOGjxh3FKl8t%2F%2FVsZzff%2FAtXskphySe929y%2BwXC8U%2BvmV%2BX7AuWvaGycKy5tDftKmc%3D

So, my goal is a 200 hp BPT, but for now, I need to get the motor and get it ready to be turbo'd, which will include freshening up the motor and some work on the head. I've been looking for a donor car, but haven't found one yet, car-part.com has a few engines within 100 miles of me, I'm looking for an escort GT motor because I want the Ford valve cover.

They have a couple 91's a couple 94's and a couple other years, I heard you want an early bp motor, so a 91 is what I'm after right?

I'll also need a distributor, starter, alternator, and intake manifold from the same engine, anything else? I plan on running a MS system, so the vaf isn't needed. Anything else I need to know before purchasing the motor?

[bhazard]

Why an early motor? Early ones have the small crank snout.

Also get a mazda bp, they have the "main bearing support plate". Way easier to throw a ford VC on a mazda bp than pull a mbsp off a mazda bp and put it in a ford bp.

[IdealSociety]

i 2nd the mazda BP. While a normal driver wont notice a change in longevity, spirited driving and boosted applications greatly benefit from the added strength to keep flexing from occuring at the mains.

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K, I read something about oil and coolant holes already in the block with early bp's, which is why I was thinking I needed one.

So I'm looking for a 90-94 Mazda Protege 1.8?

Car part says there is a couple 94's a 93 and a 92 within 100 miles, should I try for the later years or would it matter?

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Also, what parts do I need to keep from my b3 for this swap? Is anything going to be the same? I'd like to sell the motor and transmission since I won't be using them anymore, but I don't want to sell something and have to buy it back from somewhere else.

[bhazard]

Whatever had the lowest miles and a large nose crank.

You're swapping to a G series too right?

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Yea, I'm looking at a 02 Kia Rio 5 speed I hope will turn out to be a G series transmission that will work, if not I'll have to find another transmission. I don't see a point in spending a couple thousand dollars on parts to build something that's gonna break so I definately won't be using the stock transmission.

[Nerd Racing]

I have a large nose later BP and it has the turbo lines drilled and tapped. its the 95+ that don't.

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Ah, ok.

Another question, how much does a b3 weigh approximately, just the block and head, no more than 200 lbs right? Maybe 250?! I need to pull it out of my car and I don't have a cherrypicker, but if it's not too much I have an idea of how to get it out.

[bhazard]

Drop it out the bottom.

Id say not even 150 actually.

[getnpsi]

nerd: does a b8 block have the same holes drilled? I never looked at mine as its a n/a car

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it'll be kinda hard for me to drop it out of the bottom, I've got it jacked way up in the air, probably 2', but that's about as high as I trust my jackstands to go. I have an idea, and I'm pretty sure it will work, but I don't want to say it right now because someone's gonna end up going crazy and say it's probably not going to work lol, my fiance already told me i'm not "allowed" to do that, but what does she know. (famous last words)

anyway, the old a/c condenser probably isn't going to work, so should I go ahead and remove all the air conditioning compotents? I really don't care about air conditioning in the summer, even in the tripple digit days I cruise with the windows down. A little less weight won't hurt anything anyway. The book says have it serviced by a dealer dept, but is there a "safe" way for me to disconnect the hoses without spraying freon everywhere?

[getnpsi]

Drop crossmember?

[JoDan]

it'll be kinda hard for me to drop it out of the bottom, I've got it jacked way up in the air, probably 2', but that's about as high as I trust my jackstands to go. I have an idea, and I'm pretty sure it will work, but I don't want to say it right now because someone's gonna end up going crazy and say it's probably not going to work lol, my fiance already told me i'm not "allowed" to do that, but what does she know. (famous last words)

anyway, the old a/c condenser probably isn't going to work, so should I go ahead and remove all the air conditioning compotents? I really don't care about air conditioning in the summer, even in the tripple digit days I cruise with the windows down. A little less weight won't hurt anything anyway. The book says have it serviced by a dealer dept, but is there a "safe" way for me to disconnect the hoses without spraying freon everywhere?

You need to take it to a shop who can evac the system dry before you disconnect any lines. "legal way"

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You need to take it to a shop who can evac the system dry before you disconnect any lines. "legal way"

Ah, gotcha, I'll get it taken care of, 2 of my uncles are hvac installers, maybe one of them can stop by on their way home sometime and do it for me, they mainly do commercial work, but might be able to do this.