Hydro set ups add complexity, weight and maintenance. I'd vote cable.
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My last engine swap build thread, FANTASTIVA
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Originally posted by BigElCat View PostHere's a standing offer to Marcus.
I have key access to our shop. We could bump the 3/8 plate to the proper angle, mill off any extra metal on the original bracket, and get some kinda weld seam between the plate and gussetts on the original bracket.
It's 90 minutes each way to St. Joe. If you had a bare Egt block, that would be helpful. Just some thoughts..I'll pm you my phone #.
Originally posted by eurotiva View PostDefinitely the difference in a cable vs hydro mounting. Fresh you don't have a cable trans in all those parts?sigpic
The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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Doing the aspire rear torsion beam and brake swap today.
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The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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That thing's going to be awesome.
I'm serious about the fab shop. My schedule's pretty flexible in the evenings and the weekends (I'm not much of a morning person).
If you don't have a spare block, bring the whole thing in a truck...you could back right in.
Or you could Festiva on down here to save some gas, and scout the shop out. If you have a good visual memory, we could bump and tack the mount.
I'm dreamin' of the day when I can do a serious build.
A hyraulic clutch is good if you ever use a stout clutch, like a so called stage 2 or 3.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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^ Thanks a lot man !!! As soon as I figure out what Im going to do I'll give you a call. I really appreciate it !!!
Rolling on 14s now ( well sitting anyway ) with aspire shocks. Brand new free Michelins
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The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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Good clearance toosigpic
The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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Accidental post.Last edited by crazyrog17; 04-23-2012, 08:08 PM.-Zack
Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub
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Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostAre you using the whole xr2 axel, from the diff to the hubs?sigpic
The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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Originally posted by Christ View PostPreheat the cast with a torch around the welding area. No peening necessary.
the part in an oven first (if it will fit) to get it pre-heated.
Another trick we learned when trying to extract a broken bolt out of a cast iron component (like common exhaust bolts broke off in Ford FE block heads). Heat the bolt up to molten state with a torch and then give it a quick blast of oxygen with the torch. It will blow the steel bolt out and leave the cast iron threads perfectly in tact and clean.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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Originally posted by blkfordsedan View PostMy brother welds cast all the time using this technique. He usually puts
the part in an oven first (if it will fit) to get it pre-heated.
Another trick we learned when trying to extract a broken bolt out of a cast iron component (like common exhaust bolts broke off in Ford FE block heads). Heat the bolt up to molten state with a torch and then give it a quick blast of oxygen with the torch. It will blow the steel bolt out and leave the cast iron threads perfectly in tact and clean.
doesn't have an application anymore! Darn near have to pull
the head!! ProgressReflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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Originally posted by freshtiva View PostYes, at least thats what I have, I havent tried to see if it fits in the aspire hub yet.
Last edited by zoom zoom; 04-24-2012, 10:43 AM.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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Worked on my midshaft bracket. Took some material off the back to get it plumb with the block. Im 100% confident in it now even though it's kind of gawdy looking. Like my buddy Levitan said, I just had to get in touch with my inner hillbilly strength.
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The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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The bracket looks great from my house!
2 thoughts...
1) Permacool make a spin on adapter that fits the oil filter bosses and allows two 1/2" lines to come out. Someday I'm going to step up to a remote filter, with a large Wix 51773. It helps cool the oil, increases capacity, and makes for easier oil changes.
2) Wheels studs are sweet. There's nothing like tossing a light weight wheel/tire combo on there, have it stay, and center itself. Studs are cheap and it takes about 20 minutes for the conversion when the hubs and drums are off the car.
You'll have to take for me for ride in this chariot someday. It's going to be the Prima Festarossa of the MidWest!'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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It's just a hillbilly thang!
Changed that inner tie rod, Fresh. Wow! Had no idea it was so easy. Just used a 22 or 24mm wrench and used that inner hillbilly strength.Last edited by Levitan; 04-24-2012, 06:11 PM.ENFORCER - Midwest Festiva Inc., Iowa
#1 '90 Sport to modified Lx - RollazX
#2 .....Cheesehead
#3 '91 White - Donor Car
#4 .....Montana Project
SOLD----Levistiva for $1500
Bought her back for $450
Now that's darn near priceless!!
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Originally posted by zoom zoom View PostThe splines will fit, hub to differential, but I don't know if the length will be right, the 02 Kia Rio passenger side axel is pretty much the same length as the xr2 axel. It is a one piece design, and doesn't bolt to the block, just a straight axel.
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...light=rio+axel
Originally posted by BigElCat View PostThe bracket looks great from my house!
2 thoughts...
1) Permacool make a spin on adapter that fits the oil filter bosses and allows two 1/2" lines to come out. Someday I'm going to step up to a remote filter, with a large Wix 51773. It helps cool the oil, increases capacity, and makes for easier oil changes.
2) Wheels studs are sweet. There's nothing like tossing a light weight wheel/tire combo on there, have it stay, and center itself. Studs are cheap and it takes about 20 minutes for the conversion when the hubs and drums are off the car.
You'll have to take for me for ride in this chariot someday. It's going to be the Prima Festarossa of the MidWest!
Originally posted by Levitan View PostIt's just a hillbilly thang!
How the seal change go ?sigpic
The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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