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Festicle and xaero
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Could you integrate an idle valve block off plate and throttle cable bracket? I'm just thinking that the idle valve plate is closer to the throttle cable and might be a simpler design.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-31-2016, 11:33 AM.
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More throttle bracket testing. I think this is a winner so my buddy will cut it out of 1/8 in plate.
Last edited by Hot_Wheels; 07-31-2016, 03:12 AM.
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Infinity ecu with all the sensors. Filled shifter with polyeurthane window weld, made a new control arm brace to clear the dropped trans.
Last edited by Hot_Wheels; 07-31-2016, 03:09 AM.
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I think we will put some holes in the bimper support as mentioned and line them. I plane on using the Isuzu stylus bumper which has a much bigger opening. Will work on some duct once i get all the components in there. Here is a few updates. I got my buddy to come out and start working on the wiring. He is stripping the old engine harness out. Making a charging harness and then will start to work on a new engine harness. I wanted to use Mil-spec connectors for a quick disconnect at the firewall however it takes a engineer to figure out how to put them together! They dont sell completed ones and there all like keys so you have to get the correct mated halfs. I ordered a few from ebay on a whim but they where to small. Kleanwire makes a nice kit however its solder terminal and my wiring guy is states he wants crimp style. So if anyone has part numbers or a source for 32+ pin 16-20 gauge connector let me know! Chase bay sells one for $490 but thats just crazy and i know if i get the right numbers it should be had for less then $150.00. I also picked up a Peterson oil filter relocate with built it primer! I think this a great idea for first start up and also for when i store the car in the winter.
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Since you have access to a plasma cutter, I would cut a couple of pretty big rectangular holes in the bumper for air flow. You could "line" the holes with some very thin sheet metal to make a duct to make sure the air flows directly thru and onto the radiator, instead of just circulating around inside the bumper.
If you cut the holes, what would you do with the plastic cover? Cut holes in it or get a different cover that has "holes" already in it? Same question about the foam spacer?
If the inter-cooler wasn't there (but then, what would be the point...) you could just make an airdam / spoiler extension and get tons of air into the radiator. We use to use small plastic trash cans riveted to the lower radiator frame on SCCA road racing 427 Corvettes at Riverside Raceway (sort of the Sahara desert race track in Southern California - no longer exists) for cooling the front brakes and enough air spilled over that it lowered the engine temperature 15F - a big improvement.
We also had the back of the hood raised up about 1/2" so hot air could escape from the engine compartment. Our cars were roadsters with a very tiny windscreen so we didn't have a high pressure area at the base of the windscreen to contend with or cause a reverse airflow into the engine compartment. The raised hood might not work on a Festiva since it is a "coupe" and has a tall windshield, but it might be worth a try. You can just loosed the bolts on the hood hinge and move the back edge of the hood so it sticks up a bit and makes a "gap" to let the engine compartment air escape. Easy to re-position the hood if it doesn't work.
So getting some more cool air into the radiator/engine compartment and hot air out is something worth while doing, and can be done fairly cheaply.
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Those look good, what are they from? Or just universal rounds?
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^ Yes getting the heat out & cool air in is more critical. Sometimes more cores are a Band-Aide. My DD in Texas was a Mustang with 4:56 gears and only 3 gears. You learn cooling very fast,first thing that happens is you stop and your car want restart. Starter Heat soaked
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In thoery, this setup should run cooler than a typical b6t. The short and restricted stock exhaust manifold soaks a lot of heat into the engine. Your manifold should stay cool. Also, less exhaust restriction means a cooler running engine as well. You may want to duct air from the front to cool your turbine and header. Controlling the airflow is critical. If it's easier for the air to go around your thick radiator than it is to push through it then your worse off than if you had a thin radiator. Ducting the air will control it and reduce the amount of air that can escape around your radiator. This is why modern cars have all that Ducting and belly pans and shields and plastic crap. OEM manufacturers have learned the value of controlling the airflow.
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Well i orderded a bunch of parts for the money. The miata cylinder master and booster, intercooler 2.5 in 3 reducer, i orderded a 3 core radiator i think mine is a single core. Radiator overflow, and some v bands. I had a friend come over and dimension some stuff for cnc plasma cutting. Im going to do Gomez's door bar front end supports. Also we made a reinforcement plate for the radiator which will also act as a hold down. Also test fitted a throttle cable bracket but it was way to ahort. I want to shorten the throttle cable, has anyone done this before? I need to find a lug i can press on the cable that will fit the throttle body hole.
Last edited by Hot_Wheels; 05-28-2016, 09:49 PM.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostLooking good! You could use a miata booster. They are thinner and will give you some space between the MC and the downpipe. You may want to heat shield that downpipe and turbine so it doesn't heat soak the MC.
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Looking good! You could use a miata booster. They are thinner and will give you some space between the MC and the downpipe. You may want to heat shield that downpipe and turbine so it doesn't heat soak the MC.
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