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Festicle and xaero

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
    Small updates. Wiring guy is plugging away and separating the harness. He got the charging harness done. The coolant cross over pipe was bent up from 5/8 aluminum tube. My goal is for wiring to be done mid January so it can go in the body shop
    My buddy made me a fan shroud which hopefully I'll pick up this weekend and can start plumbing that.

    Looking good!
    If you use the block vent and the valve cover vent over the alternator, you can block off the valve cover vent that you've got plumbed. That'll help with your hose routing, as that is not a good place for a hose filled with oil/fuel vapor to run. I would mount the catch can on the other side of the engine bay if you can. That turbo will glow red and even with a blanket, that side of the engine bay could see extreme heat. The catch can is full of oil/fuel vapors, which are extremely volatile. Putting a catch can within a foot of a turbine is a recipe for dissaster.
    I mentioned on the facebook page, you'll want a decent length of hose with at least 1 bend in it to isolate your heater core, or it will see too much vibration and stress from the engine. The factory puts 2 bends in that hose for this reason. Heater cores do not like vibration or and pulling on the fittings.
    It looks like the list is getting smaller and smaller. I'm excited to see what this setup is capable of. Great work!
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 12-20-2016, 10:14 AM.

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  • Festiver
    replied
    Love this build


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • wwwdotgov
    replied
    Very cool!!

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  • Hot_Wheels
    replied
    Things to finish
    Install Teins coil overs
    Finish door support bars
    Plumb Miata master cylinder
    Plumb upper and lower radiator hoses
    Fill trans, brake and coolant
    Get electronic speedo sender and install
    Make seat brackets and install
    Plumb throttle body to intercooler
    install intercooler sprayer
    Install iat sensor

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  • Hot_Wheels
    replied
    Small updates. Wiring guy is plugging away and separating the harness. He got the charging harness done. The coolant cross over pipe was bent up from 5/8 aluminum tube. My goal is for wiring to be done mid January so it can go in the body shop
    My buddy made me a fan shroud which hopefully I'll pick up this weekend and can start plumbing that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Festiver
    replied
    Originally posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
    Part out coming soon! J/k still waiting on wiring guy.
    Lmao awesome also once I finish my current Nims project I'll have CNC access for those plastic parts

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

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  • Hot_Wheels
    replied
    Part out coming soon! J/k still waiting on wiring guy.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Thirsty for updates!

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  • Hellafab
    replied
    Festicle and xaero




    Fuel cell foam.
    It's high temp and chemical resistant. This block was $18 on eBay.

    Don't use a scrubber. Lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Hellafab; 10-16-2016, 02:07 PM.

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  • Dragonhealer
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    A well designed separator won't need Brillo pad. I had 2 cracked pistons and 16psi of boost and didn't blow oil out my can. It has a good internal baffle system.
    That's because you designed yours for a full-up racing Porsche!
    But if you need a matrix, don't use Brillo, use the nice stainless wad pot scrubber from your local food mart.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    A well designed separator won't need Brillo pad. I had 2 cracked pistons and 16psi of boost and didn't blow oil out my can. It has a good internal baffle system.

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  • Hellafab
    replied
    Use fuel cell foam instead of brillo.


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  • Hot_Wheels
    replied
    The brake lines where not custom i bought a kit off ebay for Aspire. I had tapped the valve cover and used -10 fittings. However i did this because i powder coated the valve cover first. I should have welded on the bungs and than powder coated. The probalem with threading is the hole going into the cover is smaller due to threads. It was hard tapping and i thought i was going to crack the valve cover. Thankfully i didnt. I think i tapped 1/2 npt. I may redo this down the road but im sure its plenty bigger than stock. I also contemplated adding steel brilllo pads to the baffles. Some of the miata guys are doing this to help the oil vapor to accumulate and drain back to the engine so less oil on catch can. Draw back is your adding metal shavings to a engine... So i decided not to at this time til i get more proof of benefit over risk.
    Last edited by Hot_Wheels; 10-13-2016, 02:53 PM.

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  • festyfreak39
    replied
    Also do you remember off hand how you did the valve cover catch can? did you drill and tap or weld to the valve cover? are those -8AN?

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  • festyfreak39
    replied
    Originally posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
    So far stock metal lines but ill probably need to modify them up front at master cylinder. The flex lines where from i beloeve a ford aspire kit i got off ebay. Not sure if its still avilable but i know a guy on facebook who can replicate them if he had lines to match them to.
    so the rear ones were custom made? The hardlines are pretty easy to figure out just the flex lines for the rear disks. I wonder if an escort gt kit is the same? should be.

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