Yikes!!!!!
I deglazed the bores today. Low and behold, cylinder 4 has a score mark running from approx half way of the bore down to the bottom. There was a much lighter score mark coming up to the top but it went away some some light honing.
Being that the score mark is so low. Do you guys think its going to cause me dramas?
Should I get it honed and re ringed?
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Ohhhh yeah.. Where are the tissues?
sent from the depths of hell.
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I FORGOT TO MENTION.
HEAD GOT SENT AWAY FOR REFACING (SEATS AND DECK)
NOW THIS IS SEXY



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How sexy does that look?
Keep it coming moz.
sent from the depths of hell.
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OK! So i messed up my photos and links and whatever else.
So below is a summarised pictorial history of my build so far.
MAZDA 121 PURCHASED 23 DECEMBER 2012




GETTING READY FOR ROADWORTHY AND REGISTRATION JAN 2013

CAPRI XR2 DONOR CAR PURCHASED JAN 2013

I LOVE THIS BADGE. KINDA GEEKY, BUT I REALLY LIKE IT.

WASNT LONG BEFORE I HAD IT WELL AND TRULY GUTTED

REAR SUSPENSION MODDED AS PER ADVANCEDYNAMIX

BRAKE BOOSTER CLEARANCING (ONLY APPLIES TO RHD CARS) -I'll create a separate thread in articles for the tutorial on this mod.

FRONT GEARBOX MOUNT HAD TO BE FABRICATED USING ANGLE IRON AND SOME GOOD OLD AUSSIE KNOW HOW.
I USED THE BOTTOM HALF OF A 1996-2002 DW MAZDA 121 (DEMIO IN JAPAN) FRONT GEARBOX MOUNT. IT SITS MUCH LOWER THAN THE FESTIVA OR CAPRI ITEMS, SO IT CREATES MORE SPACE FOR THE RAD AND HOSES ETC.





REAR GEARBOX MOUNT MODS. I USED A FORD CAPRI REAR MOUNT AND MODDED IT TO SUIT. I ALSO MOVED THE TOP MOUNTING BOLT APPROX 10MM TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE (DRIVERS SIDE FOR LHD COUNTRIES) AS I WAS ADVICED THAT THE DRIVESHAFTS LINE UP BETTER THIS WAY. NOTE: I ONLY MODDED THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE MOUNT AS THESE ARE READILY AVAILABLE AND CAN BE REPLICATED ANYTIME.



GEARBOX IS ALMOST TOUCHING THE FRAME (IVE MASSAGED IN THIS WITH THE RUBBER MALLET SINCE)

GEARBOX IS ALSO MIGHTY CLOSE TO THE STEERING ARM BRACKET

TIME TO DISMANTLE THE ENGINE FOR A CLEAN AND REBUILD
BEFORE (PLENTY OF CARBON BUILDUP)


OIL SQUIRTERS WERE SERIOUSLY CLOGGED

AFTER-
OIL SQUIRTERS

PISTONS

WITH RINGS CLEANED AND FITTED

NEXT WEEK.... CLEANING OUT THE BORES
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sorry guys. my photo bucket was an absolute mess.
ive re organized all the photos and will repost again
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not sure why but all the links say invalid for me...and I have had others tell me that too.
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Well. I stuck to the Gospel of advanced dynamix and I'm glad I did.
The top ring in cyl 3 was so caked up with carbon that it was stuck in its compressed position.


Acetone and very hot soapy water did the trick just like charlie said.

Even the oil squirters were clogged up with carbon

Nice and clean now

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I would be weary of anything more than .016" and anything less than .013". My used 146,000 mile rings had a perfect .0135" end gap on all 4 cylinders and my engine had very little wear as well. For a comparison, the brand new Hastings rings that I bought for this engine had .020" end gap, which is unacceptable. I had this problem with the NPR rings I built my first engine with, and that engine always had blow by issues.
I ran a plateau brush through my cylinders (6 quick strokes) to deglaze them and I sanded around the rings (the surface that mates with the cylinder) to allow a fresh reseating of the rings. It doesn't take much, I was just removing the glaze. It seemed to have worked great because I'm running 15psi with water methanol injection and the engine uses no oil at all, havn't done a comp/leak test yet, but I'll post my results when I get a chance.
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Thanks charlie. You confirmed my hunch.
How much gap is tolerable on the rings?
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