rmoltis build thread 96 aspire

[rmoltis]

Thx matt! I was gonna call you today and report.
I'm loving this header you built.
It's awesome.

[rmoltis]

Glad to see your progress!

I went ahead and bumped the fuel pressure regulator up from 40to 42/43lbs.
It helped remove the dead spot at the lower rpms just like you said it would.
Now I'm really starting to notice the power this setup makes.
Man its nice.

Thx for all your quality work and years of knowledge and experience.
And willingness to help walk your customers through understanding the processes involved.
I didn't think just a header back exhaust with fpr would make such a big difference.
I was skeptical about losing the low end torque.
But with the adjustable fpr it just dialed it back in
And stronger than before.

[mattdickmeyer]

Thanks for your coments, I think it's important to understand that when you purchase a part or parts from me, your not only buying a part, but paying for my expirence in what I do. This guarantee flawless function and gives me the ability walk you through tuning issues over the phone and not leave you hanging ,as I know how my products respond to various conditions. Thanks again!

[rmoltis]

After selling my spare header.

I ordered a new downstream o2 sensor.
To replace the hacked one that has been on the car since I got it.

It was $50.15
Which is the lowest price I could find
It was Denso part #234-4037

And to my suprise
it had enough extra length to reach
The relocated o2 bung further back.

So I removed the old one and replaced the new one.
And made sure to put some anti seize on it.

That removes the need for one o2 extension.
Now I only need one made for the front.

That's later though.
Gotta take some measurements.

[Festevil3]

44lbs was the shipped weight of the dynamat and I used all 72 sq ft.

Thanks good info

[rmoltis]

I received my 3 wire Denso heated o2 sensor 234-300 today in the mail.
Got it off eBay for $35.

The install was simple I used my add a circuit.
And plugged it into an unused fuse slot where the fog lights should be.
Ran the power wire to the plug.
Then ran a ground wire off the battery to the sensor

(I know I could have used a bolt or something on the body but I didn't.)

Then spliced the signal wire into the extension I already have spliced to the stock connector
And voila.

I had the ground battery terminal disconnected during the process so my ecu would reset itself.

Then when I was done I went for a drive around town.

Man what a difference the heated o2 sensor makes on dickmeyers header.

It makes it much more driveable at lower rpms and part throttle driving.
And keeps it in closed loop when not wot.

I'm diggin how its feeling now after all this time.

Tomorrow I will go back out and try and reset the timing to its best point.
And possibly fiddle with the fuel pressure as well to get it dialed in

I had a hard time keeping my foot out of the gas.

Anyone who has a header needs to get the heated sensor.
It makes the car so much more responsive.

Also it gave my exhaust note a slightly deeper growl to it at idle and part throttle.

It means ill be making it to fm7 for sure.

[TominMO]

Looking forward to seeing your car and comparing notes!

[rmoltis]

Fiddled around with my fuel pressure and timing today.

Fuel pressure at 40 psi was the sweet spot.

38-39 with dickmeyers header left power to be desired at low rpms.
42-43 made power at idle/part throttle but at wot and high rpms it seemed to bog down/ too rich.

Keeping in mind my engine is stock except for k&n drop in filter + dickmeyer header+2" exhaust.

I advanced the ignition timing as well.
I don't have a timing light but its advanced 2-4 degrees at least.


I had the stock ignition timing marked with a sharpie
Then advanced it slowly 1/16" at a time
Then found the point it pinged at.
Then retarded it slowly 1/16" at a time until it was running good without the noise.
S*** runs great now.
Power everywhere.

Everything was dialed in and I'm set for a while until more upgrades in the future.
Was driving all day enjoying/ getting used to the new feel of the vehicle.

Dickmeyer I love your work/experience
Can't wait to get more upgrades in the future from you!

[zoom zoom]

Haha, you can advance an auto aspire(96/97 with centripitual torque converter anyway) clear up into the low 20's and not hear it ping! The car won't rev past 45/5000 rpm before it shifts at wot. I think you run out of gear with the 3 speed autotradjic box (granted I haven't had my aspire higher than 95 mph but who really wants to run a stock aspire that fast more than once or twice lol) before you run out of rpms. Even uphill at wot won't ping. I had mine set way high it leaves a lot of power on the table. I set it back to around 13* and its doing good there, it was a mpg boost when the ignition parts were new. Just don't retard it much, that will get you a blown head gasket quick!

1/16" on the distributor could be 4* on the crank pulley. They're really sensitive, just barely tapping it with the butt of a wrench as hard as you'd tap a spark plug to get that extra .004" of excess gap out is a * or 2.


If you message the man the myth the legend Artemis Prime (aka FestYboy) he might be able to bring a timing light and help you get the car fine tuned at madness?!

[rmoltis]

I'm down!!

I'd love to get everything dialed in perfectly.

As well as knowing exactly where I sit with the timing.

Oh and on a side note I forgot to mention.

I got the oil changed on both vehicles today!

And installed the magnetic drain plugs.

The most difficult part was trying to get the drain plug into the hole.

The magnet kept pulling it towards the oil pan itself whenever it would get close.

So it took a minute under the car with one hand to get it to line up and thread in.

But the drain plug transplant on the aspire and corolla went successfully.
Thread sizes matched each perfectly.

Will report back in 3000 miles.

Which if put on at the current rate will be 6 months to a year from now.

I'm lucky my work is within 4 miles from home usually.

Can't wait for fm7!

[rmoltis]

Went out today and decided to replace my egr valve.

No real reason to I just wanted more peace of mind.
I took the old one off and looked inside.
It was dirty but not as bad as others I've seen.

Is say it was %30 constricted by debris and gunk.

So I removed the old and took intake+throttle body cleaner and sprayed it deep inside the hole going up into the manifold and the one going downwards.

A lot of build up came pouring out
I used paper towels folded up underneath the egr valve openings placed on top of the alternator for protection.

I must have dirtied up 10 paper towels soaked in black and brown stuff as it oozed out time after time.
Until it was mostly clean.

I knew I wouldnt get it %100 spotless without dissassembling the intake manifold.
Then I took the remaining throttle body cleaner.
Removed the intake tract and proceeded to hose the throttle body and everything behind it.

Granted the throttle body blade was almost spotless and I couldn't see any gunk behind it.
I figure they may be something deeper inside I couldn't see.

Let the cleaner soak with the butterfly closed.
Re installed the intake tubing.
Replaced egr valve with brand new one with new gasket just for peace of mind.
Started the vehicle (it was rough start cause of the soaking intake cleaner)
Then took my fingers and moved the egr diaphragm up to let hot air run through the channels I had cleaned.
While holding the idle up at about 2000rpms by hand
so the engine wouldn't die from open egr valve at idle.

Then proceeded to go for a 18 mile drive on the freeway and through the city
to make sure the intake pulled any of the gunk through as well as drying out the cleaner.

Car seemed to respond well.
The intake vacuum went up slightly at idle after it was all said and done
As well as the idle quality was improved (smoother).

Car also seemed to drive better/smoother/slightly more responsive at low rpms and part throttle.

Now its onto whatever maintenance I can find that I haven't done yet.
Probably sending my injectors to dickmeyer for cleaning/balancing next.
Since I'm working on power/fuel system.

Get everything running as smooth as possible.

[rmoltis]

Received my brand new headlight assemblies in the mail today (left+right).

Man these lenses are clean and clear compared to my 18yr old originals

Will install within a day or two and post pictures.

Can't wait to install these and see better in the dark finally.

Plus all of my lenses (corners, sidemarkers, tail lights, headlights)
Will be brand new and factory fresh.

[redspire]

Where did you order headlights at? I tried a lot of headlight restore kits but can't seem to completely clean it.

[rmoltis]

I got em off eBay.

Here's the passenger side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370661456863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

And then the driver side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370661457370?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Best price I could find for brand new

[rmoltis]

Got my outer control arm bushings today in the mail.
Shipped from Victoria Australia.
Nolathane or course.
These control arm outer bushings seem pretty stout compared to the moog bushings pictured online
Will post pics tomorrow.

Now I have a complete kit of nolathane bushings sitting at home.
Control arm inner kit
Control arm outer kit
& swaybar to frame bushings kit.

Next on the list to complete my suspension swap is;
New control arms
New strut mount kits front+rear
New King springs standard height springs
New Kyb struts
New coil spring isolators front+rear & top+bottom (if possible to find)
new Rear trailing arm to body bushing from fourgreen
& new outer tie rod ends (already have new inners)

It may take a while to acquire everything.
But will be well worth the wait.
Then will install everything all at once & get an alignment.

No exceptions & no substitutions.
This is all exactly what I want.