rmoltis build thread 96 aspire

[rmoltis]

I just ordered it online. It was like $5 shipping included.

The brand name on the box was intermotor and the part# was gv29

[drddan]

Got my pvc grommet from Oreillys.... in stock!

[rmoltis]

Was cruising around today fiddling with fuel pressure, idle speed, and ignition timing .
Now that it is summer time, my car needed its seasonal tune :-).

Everything is dialed in nicely,
after all the time I spent learning how to get everything in harmony its easy now.

But when I sent under my car just to have a look like usual every now and again.
I found bad news!

As soon as I saw it I instantly was torn between 2 realities;
1. I take very good care of my car and tend to take my time around bumps/potholes/etc.
I can not remember ever bottoming this car out maybe the p.o. but not me.
&
2. The fact that it could be no-one else's fault but mine since I'm the only one that drives it.

I'm so mad. not at myself but the situation grrrr......

Here's pics...





So now I have the two center cylinders with reduced capacity primaries.
Which means that those 2 cylinders should see higher temps and pressures than the outside 2.

We all know a smooth running engine basically starts with balanced/matched airflow into and out of each cylinder.

One day I will have dickmeyer repair them,
But for now I just wanna let it sink in what I did :-(

[william]

No big deal a stud welder and slide hammer will pull that out.
There about a 100 bucks from harbor freight but a body shop would probably pull that for less than half that.

[rmoltis]

slightly repositioned my front tweeters so i did a re-tune of the stereo.
figured i would post the frequency response and wave decay graph screenshots this time.
it shows before and after.



also if anyone has a compatible deck i have a pxa-h100 still BNIB
i would suggest looking up compatible models first before asking me for it.

i originally bought it before i bought my deck and it was the wrong one lol.
had to buy a different one later on.

it is similar to the program you see in the picture only it is a dsp that connects to your deck, instead of mine which has the dsp built into the deck.
you still need a laptop for the tuning process and the software and microphone kit are sold separately online.
i never purchased the extras because it was the wrong one for my deck.


the fs thread below

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?49756-Alpine-Imprint-digital-sound-processor-PXA-H100-%28NIB%29&highlight=pxa-h100

[rmoltis]

Ordered some more car parts for my collection today.
Ordered some new half shafts left+right. (I think my left one may be going bad)
Moog tie rod ends,
And some new control arms.

I'm collecting suspension components for future upgrade.
Still have the:
Nolathane inner control arm bushings
Nolathane outer control arm bushings
Nolathane swaybar to frame bushings
New inner tie rod ends.

Still need:
New rear beam bushings.
Kyb strut mount kits front+ rear.
Standard height stiffer king springs.
Shocks/struts front+rear.
And if possible the rubber bushings that sit between the top and bottom of each spring.

It is a work in progress, slow progress that is.

If anyone has some new rear beam bushings I could possibly purchase, that'd be great.
If not I may have to contact fourgreen and see if they have any.

I'm hoping to do this whole setup at once when the time comes to do a clutch rebuild.
That way everything will already be apart and can be done in less overall time.

On the clutch side. I still have an fms clutch kit
Disc
Pressure plate
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing
And new flywheel (wasn't included in fms kit)

And on another side note.

I wanna do the clutch kit when the time comes that I get a performance tranny rebuild.
Straight cut and polished gears and a phantom grip in the differential.

Everything just takes time and money, but mostly time and patience.

One day I will have all my pieces together and the whole thing will get done.
But for now It is all about patience. Collecting everything needed now. That way I won't have to go back in there for a long time.

I can save the engine work for last once all this is finished.

But hey talk is cheap. Let's see if this all ever gets done lol :-D

[jason_]

Straight cut gears..... Omg

You are aware that's why reverse sounds hideous? Imagine that tiny od gear driving the cluster @ 70.....

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[rmoltis]

I'm aware of what straight cut gears sound like.
And your also aware that I have a sound barrier of 2 layers of dynamat?
Which I could also add some extra sound dampening materials if it was really necessary.
I'm not so worried about the noise.

To you it sounds hideous.
But to me I personally like the sound.

Another man's trash, is another man's treasure.

I'm more interested in the removal of a percentage of parasitic loss through the drivetrain.
Which would translate into better fuel economy, response, and overall power to the wheels. While reducing the lateral load placed on the transmission from diagonal cut gears.

[jason_]

2 layers of damper, and hours to retune and eq a radio, and the sound of straight cut gears, through your dyna tough stuff, that you could add more and block the sound you enjoy.

My head hurts.


Continue the build. It looks nice.
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[rmoltis]

Everything will be ok ;-).

When I want to hear my car noises.
I just roll my windows down.

When I want silence.
I just roll them up.

I can have the best of both worlds.

[bhearts]

Where do you plan on finding straight cut gears at?

[rmoltis]

I've already got everything figured out.
It'll be a custom job.

[rmoltis]

ordered more suspension related components today
kyb front mount kit sm5273 (2)
kyb rear strut mount kit sm5139 (2)
kyb strut boot and bump stops sb101 (4)

also got new engine and trans mounts.


next things in order will be springs, rear beam bushings from four green, and new struts.

i'm almost there :-D

[rmoltis]

after doing more research i found that straight cut gears do not use synchros, rather its style is dogbox.
which requires you to kind of "slam" it in gear each time.
it is something i've decided i'm not interested in.

i thought it would be like the way it is now with the synchros. but i was wrong.
so i'm scrapping that idea even though i think it'd be cool as hell.

ill just have it rebuilt with new clutch, mounts, phantom grip, etc.

on a side note. after driving around with my pod filter on for quite some months. i reinstalled my stock airbox for comparison.

with the pod filter on i would get these kind of hesitations/surges while accelerating.
which was cause from the intake pulses speeding up and slowing down. being interfered with by changes in air intake velocity.
even though i had selected the smallest pod filter i could with a built in velocity stack to help minimize this effect. it still was flowing air too freely.

although when i was anything above 4000 rpms. it definitely showed me what it was good for, i just didnt want to have to hit 4k+ to be in the torque band for most of my driving.

so the stock box reinstalled helped smooth back out the power delivery. which eliminated the hesitations.
and it also helped give me back more of my low rpm power.
it is also still able to deliver enough airflow for the higher rpm spurts of spirited driving.
the torque delivery seems to be more spread out from low rpm to high rpm which gives me more to work with at any speed.

i see no need to use a pod filter until i do something more drastic to my engine, like a bore out or something



received my correct c.v. axle in the mail today, i need to send back out the old one.

i'm also going to order those new rear beam bushings from fourgreen today.
along with those king springs. im going to go with a standard height ones. because i still want full suspension travel along with ability to support full size passengers and the extra approx 200lbs from all the dynamat and stereo equipment that tends to bottom my car out even with stock suspension lol

[jason_]

Learn to double clutch and use throttle to increase/decrease input shaft speed. I do it everyday in a '61 T850 tandem dually. Straight cut no brass. I never slam. The 3sp auxiliary is straight cut and not synced either.

Heavy gear sets too. I swear the counter shaft weighs as much as a b3. I had to put bearings in it 900000 miles ago. 1.7 on the clock. I keep track of roll overs.

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