Yeah, it's rated at 180CCA, but cranks my car exactly like my 330CCA braille. It is different than the other ETX/YTX 12 batteries in the terminals, they are much more robust than the typical rectangle captured brass nut that is common on powersport batteries. This has the same terminal style as the Braille. Maybe you can get these from Deka wholesale and brand them for sale to the auto racing crowd. I want a discount though for leading you to them,
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
Yeah, it's rated at 180CCA, but cranks my car exactly like my 330CCA braille. It is different than the other ETX/YTX 12 batteries in the terminals, they are much more robust than the typical rectangle captured brass nut that is common on powersport batteries. This has the same terminal style as the Braille. Maybe you can get these from Deka wholesale and brand them for sale to the auto racing crowd. I want a discount though for leading you to them,
I've seen some batteries with what they call flag terminals and they are about $30 for power wheelchairs so you can pretty much say you share hardware with the hover round oh yeah and go see the Grand Canyon
1993 GL 5 speed
It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!
Yeah, it's rated at 180CCA, but cranks my car exactly like my 330CCA braille. It is different than the other ETX/YTX 12 batteries in the terminals, they are much more robust than the typical rectangle captured brass nut that is common on powersport batteries. This has the same terminal style as the Braille. Maybe you can get these from Deka wholesale and brand them for sale to the auto racing crowd. I want a discount though for leading you to them,
Big "30" size. It'll work great. Those start Watercraft that have bigger motors than festivas...lol
I wasn't sure what it derived from but that would make sense. I told my rep what I was doing, showed him a couple pics and he came back with this. We discussed the battery that advanced is using but the cca of this one looked nice! The fact that it's agm is a plus too
Yeah, it's rated at 180CCA, but cranks my car exactly like my 330CCA braille. It is different than the other ETX/YTX 12 batteries in the terminals, they are much more robust than the typical rectangle captured brass nut that is common on powersport batteries. This has the same terminal style as the Braille. Maybe you can get these from Deka wholesale and brand them for sale to the auto racing crowd. I want a discount though for leading you to them,
Do you have any details on the civic radiator swap? I need a radiator badm Don said you would have details
So I got my shifter finished today. I also found time to finish my battery tray and also made and hooked up new battery cables. When all that was done it was Time for the next hurdle...I conquered the hydro Trans in the cable car without adapter linkage or any fancy schmancy stuff. I shall post pics tomorrow
need to get thinner wire, but using what I have left
hood shuts fine
hydro transaxle cable kit....
cut the factory cable bracket in the middle of the bend so the angle can be altered
grind corner of bracket so it will index to trans
alter angle to where its needed (I used a prybar to the crossmember)
and weld up with a reinforcement (I just used strap steel)
next I disassembled the stock festy cable by cutting of one of the ends.when you do this, youll see the end at the trans is threaded. I threaded mine the rest of the way for full adjustment (12mmx1.5) and add a motor mount nut for an adjustment
if you cutoff wheel the cable crimp to relieve the crimp pressure, you can pull the cable housing out of the adjuster. you will do the same on the other end of the cable housing to get the piece that goes in the pedal frame
I salvage a mustang cable (1998, any 1994-2004 will work) and cut off the pedal end crimp
cut the housing to length needed, shave vinyl to fit festiva crimp ends you previously cut off and assemble a housing. when done, I clamped ends in a vise to tighten crimp and tack weld in the groove where I cut to releve pressure (this part is probably not necessary, but I did anyway)
next cut a groove in the clutch fork to allow cable entry
this groove is really wide, as I had limited access, but wont affect anything. the round pivot end of the mustang cable will pull the fork here
slide your firewall boot over the mustang housing as it will be used in final install
dummy the cable up to determine length needed. mark the cable, install festiva clevis (pedal end), slide a 1/8 inch cable ferrule/crimp ( available at home depot) onto cable and hit with a hammer.Cut off excess cable. You now have a new cable, just adjust the nut for clutch feel and your done!
on another note, I thought the g series reverse lamp switch was the rear switch...I guess not as I only have reverse lamps in neutral, time to fix that!
Do you have any details on the civic radiator swap? I need a radiator badm Don said you would have details
thanks!
That 30 has enough grunt to start 2 Bps at once! lol. 400cca!
On my civic radiator I made bigger inlet and outlet to accept the b6t radiator hose size, but you can leave it alone and run stock festiva size hose. Stock hose works on the top, but you have to get creative on the bottom. You can make your own lower rad support that will fit the civic radiator, and enjoy dirt cheap racing radiators.
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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