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Tweaks Re-build thread
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WOW, look at how little droop there is in the rear. NIIIIIIICCCCEEEEE!!!!!!!
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Always loved that tiny Braille battery since the first time I saw it in your car Charlie! Might have to scoop the deka up now
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Space, before you start running into the radiator and supports. My next track build will have a tubular front support area that allows the engine to be moved further forward. It's ideal to have a back angle on CV joints (they actually last longer when used at an angle because the wear is spread out and not always in one spot on the races). Eventually you will over-extend the CV axles. This could be solved by using porsche 930 CV joints (common in the sand rail world and on race cars). These joints will articulate more drastically than nearly anything available and they will hold 1000hp.Originally posted by bhearts View PostAre there limitations to how far the engine can go forward in the bay?
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Good Find Greywolf200! I clicked the link and they are available at my Lowes too! We should start a battery relocation sticky somewhere with all this info. Also, BatteryMart is in Virgina and Deka is in PA, so you east coast guys have no excuses.
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Thanks for posting the pictures. I've got a pretty good idea of how to make I'm going to make the mount and locate everything.
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FYI For us guys in the east, we can get these at our local Lowe's Home Improvement stores. Check it out:
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yes, the aliment of the axles with the hubs and the space for the radiator...how much? i don't know...
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Are there limitations to how far the engine can go forward in the bay?
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These batteries are under rated. The 180 cca is a generic etx12 motorcycle battery number. This thing spins the engine faster than the huge deep cycle marine battery I keep on trickle in the garage for priming and electrical projects. I have left my lights on for hours with this battery with no problems, and I have used it to do multiple compression checks and it didn't flinch. Braille rates the same battery at 900 pulse cranking amps, and I believe it.
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Hows that 180 cranking amp turn over the b6t? I have a marine battery in mine and the other day I left my lights on all day and she fired right up lol.
It only has 800cca put is deep cycle.
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Okay, battery pictures as promised.



This battery is the "Big Crank" ETX12 from Battery Mart. I'm very happy with it and will buy another. They are cheaper than a regular festiva battery.
CLICK HERE FOR THIS BATTERY ON EBAY
OR PAY 100 DOLLARS MORE FOR THE BRAILLE VERSIONLast edited by Advancedynamix; 01-08-2015, 08:47 PM.
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I love Fox Wagons! I always wanted to do an ABF turbo swap in one. Mega sleeper! (literally, they are comfy to sleep in).Originally posted by blake4591 View PostThis sounds a lot like the older Ford and GM practice of using the starter solenoid post to split all the power circuits. I've redone all the wiring on my fox chassis wagon and ended up doing the same thing to prevent the rats nest of wiring on the battery post that seems to be all too common on older cars. When I move the battery I'll be cleaning up the wiring in my festive and probably doing the same thing again. I've always thought good practice is to run a mega-fuse between the alternator supply and battery to have some protection form a regulator failure. I don't know where you would find a megafuse that is only 65 or 70 amps, to use with the 50 amp Festiva alternator.
I'll also agree that at least 60 percent of all electrical problems I have ever had to deal with are ground related. The more you do to make sure all the grounds are good, the less random problems you'll have.
You can find high amperage automotive fuses in car stereo shops. I don't put a fuse there because it's just another junction that can fail, but it's not a bad idea.
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