hartstiva

[firebush357]

Thanks, that was a product of love. Hopefully I can find a spare tire that supports that part, the design isn't strong enough to self support with no tire.

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I made a new one for my Nissan and just ended up using pieces of 1x1 for supports underneath, but I didn't think of doing it until after I had already staples the carpet down so I just shot some screws through it.

[Advancedynamix]

got these pretties in the mail today. Maybe I'll have all the parts together to start the build this weekend.

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Exciting stuff!

[bhearts]

Exciting stuff!

Arp head studs and. Hx main and rod bearings. And a gates blue timing belt.

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[bhearts]

Is this hole in the casting typical for a 1.6

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[bhearts]

Here's a little rod compassion for you. These manley rods were stock weight rods, but noticeably beefier. Zeph and I got most of the small block assembled. Still need to do water and oil pump tho.

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[bhearts]

Short block

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[bhearts]

hey guys. im rebuilding my calipers and was going to install them tonight, but i lost my square cut seal gasket that keep the brake fluid in. can i make anything else work?

[bhearts]

My engine bay is a mess. Got the engine pulled and ready to start bay prep. Have a couple surface rust spots that need attention. Im looking at doing it a darker grey color. And I'll have fluorescent accents in certain places. Would anyone advise against media blasting the entire bay before paint. It could really use the tlc

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[Advancedynamix]

The factory paint makes a good primer if you scuff it up correctly. I wouldn't media blast unless it was dry ice. The mess that sand, glass bead, or shells leave isn't worth the time invested. You'll also risk damaging the seam sealer. These cars are more held together with seam sealer than weld, so damaging that is not a sound idea.
Save yourself the time and effort and just sand and properly treat the rust spots and scuff the rest of the bay. Be sure to degrease the bay a few times with a strong degreaser. A pressure washer helps get the grease and oil from those tight spots.
I prefer ZEP degreaser. It comes in 2 strengths and can be purchased at Walmart or Home Depot. The purple product with the chain and sprocket on the picture is strong enough to strip the paint off your car, so be careful with it. It also dissolves aluminum, so keep it off aluminum parts.

[bhearts]

The factory paint makes a good primer if you scuff it up correctly. I wouldn't media blast unless it was dry ice. The mess that sand, glass bead, or shells leave isn't worth the time invested. You'll also risk damaging the seam sealer. These cars are more held together with seam sealer than weld, so damaging that is not a sound idea.
Save yourself the time and effort and just sand and properly treat the rust spots and scuff the rest of the bay. Be sure to degrease the bay a few times with a strong degreaser. A pressure washer helps get the grease and oil from those tight spots.
I prefer ZEP degreaser. It comes in 2 strengths and can be purchased at Walmart or Home Depot. The purple product with the chain and sprocket on the picture is strong enough to strip the paint off your car, so be careful with it. It also dissolves aluminum, so keep it off aluminum parts.

Thanks Charlie. I knew somebody would advise against it

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[Advancedynamix]

Looking forward to the before and after photos of the engine bay. A nice, clean, we'll painted engine bay makes a huge difference. Take your time and do a good job, you'll appreciate it for a long time.

[bhearts]

lug nutz

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[bhearts]

I've had quite the struggle getting these wheels to clearance my spring perch. I got a 175 series tire on the back instead of the 205 it came with. Along with a 5mm spacer. Still got 7 full turns on the lug nuts so I think I'm safe. Now to get the front on and put the car on the ground

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[dliverance]

Looking forward to seeing the flares mounted.

[bhearts]

Looking forward to seeing the flares mounted.

Maybe this weekend

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