Pedro the Festiva's build thread.

[shorestiva]

page 25 post 247 in this thread

[skeeters_keeper]

mmhhmm that is yummy!

So aside from more - camber, what else did you change to get more low? softer springs, filler springs? still running the same struts?

[Advancedynamix]

Same spring rates as before (120lb front, 105lb rear). These are my latest build of coilovers, just like what the festiva store will have in a month or so. The biggest difference is I made my own front strut mounts that lower the car an extra inch without sacraficing travel. These were on Pedro at FM9 for those who looked close enough to see them (they look very stock.) At this ride height, my rear springs are floating at full droop, which I don't like, but I plan to shorten my shock shafts to eliminate that. My goal is to be this low or lower and still ride better than stock.
I couldn't run this low before because my rear tires would rub, but with -4 degrees camber they tuck up in the fenders. I had to trim the bumper tabs in the rear a bit and of coarse roll and work the fenders as much as possible without distorting the shape of the body.
I still have a few inches of comfortable suspension travel and it rides smooth and feels great on the road. It I put my 13" wheels on with the little 175/50-13 tires then Pedro would be too low to get my jack under. Haha.

[Advancedynamix]

[Advancedynamix]

Huh. How do you get that changed? The toe in the rear.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I made a new set of these spacers with a 5 degree angle. I still don't have them right because my toe is 1/16 out overall in the back and I've maxed the adjustment all the way in. It will take me another 6 months to make a set that is perfect, but I'll get it right eventually. I do this stuff very slowly in my spare time (which I don't get very often these days). I have had these -4 degrees spacers for almost a year, waiting to go on, but I haven't had time to put them in. I stole all pedro's brakes and suspension to put on our LeMons car, so I had to put new stuff together for Pedro. It's nice to have this car back together. I've gone over a month without being able to drive it since it's been up on jack stands.

[skeeters_keeper]

I remember the top hats in the front, even so I didn't think you could go that low w/o the springs floating in the front.

Have you considered raising the mount inside the rear of the car instead of shortening the shock shaft?

About 2.5-3" lower than stock is good for me, considering the gravel road I live on, so I don't anticipate ever trying to go that low... but it does look nice!

[bhazard]

Where did you get the springs themselves?

[Advancedynamix]

I remember the top hats in the front, even so I didn't think you could go that low w/o the springs floating in the front.

Have you considered raising the mount inside the rear of the car instead of shortening the shock shaft?

About 2.5-3" lower than stock is good for me, considering the gravel road I live on, so I don't anticipate ever trying to go that low... but it does look nice!

The front springs aren't floating. They are the 12" long 120lb springs. This is as low as they go though. I've thought about raising the rear shocks mounts since I saw it on Micah's (The Wrench) car a few years ago. I don't really want to cut Pedro though. Shortening the shocks is easier and they last a long time, so it's worth the effort.
I may make some rear drop plates that also convert the rear to Aspire brakes, but that's a whole other can of worms. I just used what I had to do this. Mostly, I wanted to drive Pedro and these camber plates were all I had left in stock and I have to run the car this low or I'll have a ton of toe out in the back and that's just scary. Lol
I love the way Pedro looks like this, but I doubt my race tires will fit, so it won't be permanent. For now though, Pedro is stanced like a baws.

Where did you get the springs themselves?

Southwest speed.

[Basement_Modder]

Do you have any more pictures of the side panels you built? Curious how they cover the back area by the tail lights.

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

[Advancedynamix]

I don't have any more pictures right now, but I'll get some. The panels don't cover the lights. The lights are still mostly exposed to make it easier to service the bulbs. That area is also my port for the rear speakers.

[Advancedynamix]

Here are some pictures of how my rear floor panel works. I've had quite a few people ask me about this, so I figured I'd update this build. Sorry I didn't take any pictures while making this stuff, I get busy and forget to take pictures.

I made this panel to support the front part of the floor.

It's made with angle iron and 1/2" MDF with a carpet covering that's glued and stapled in place.

It bolts into the car with the rear seat bolt holes.

Then I lay down a couple layers of carpet pad to deaden sound and to help the floor board sit flat (the rear floor pan is not flat.)

The floor is made from 2 pieces of 1/4" MDF with a hinge that is made from Pedro's original rear seat belt. I glued carpet pad to the bottom of the floor.

The top side of the floor has a foam "diamond plate" product that I bought on clearance at Pep Boys a few years ago. The hinged center allows the floor to be installed and removed easily.

The seatbelt hinge is strong and sturdy when the panel lays flat.
The spare tire and tools are easy to access as long and there isn't a bunch of stuff back there. There is a long narrow cubby that is formed by the front wall that I've made and the floor. This cubby comes in handy for storing extra tools, towels, nitrile gloves etc.

[ThisVelologist]

Beautiful! We've all been wondering.

[firebush357]

This makes much more sense now... I didn't realize there was a front support.

I started making side panel covers but got very frustrated with the Cardboard that I was trying to make my template out of. I'm going to talk to my guys at work to see what kind of masking paper they use when they are making templates for Paint film pieces to see if would be easier to work with.

[Advancedynamix]

Duke, the original meaning of CAD = Cardboard Aided Design

[sc72]

LOL, CAD for the win.