Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Pedro the Festiva's build thread.
Collapse
X
-
I used regular drill bits to get mine out. Started with a smaller size and then came back with a bit just slightly larger than the spot weld and then a few good wacks with a 3 pound sledge hammer.
-
Just wondering, when you removed the rear seat braces, did you just drill right through the spot welds?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Leave a comment:
-
So you're selling pedro so you can move to Australia and enter a festiva in this race series right? :grin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMcN6SQrtcw
http://blackflag.jalopnik.com/jordan...nda-1793020245
Leave a comment:
-
This makes much more sense now... I didn't realize there was a front support.
I started making side panel covers but got very frustrated with the Cardboard that I was trying to make my template out of. I'm going to talk to my guys at work to see what kind of masking paper they use when they are making templates for Paint film pieces to see if would be easier to work with.
Leave a comment:
-
Here are some pictures of how my rear floor panel works. I've had quite a few people ask me about this, so I figured I'd update this build. Sorry I didn't take any pictures while making this stuff, I get busy and forget to take pictures.
I made this panel to support the front part of the floor.
It's made with angle iron and 1/2" MDF with a carpet covering that's glued and stapled in place.
It bolts into the car with the rear seat bolt holes.
Then I lay down a couple layers of carpet pad to deaden sound and to help the floor board sit flat (the rear floor pan is not flat.)
The floor is made from 2 pieces of 1/4" MDF with a hinge that is made from Pedro's original rear seat belt. I glued carpet pad to the bottom of the floor.
The top side of the floor has a foam "diamond plate" product that I bought on clearance at Pep Boys a few years ago. The hinged center allows the floor to be installed and removed easily.
The seatbelt hinge is strong and sturdy when the panel lays flat.
The spare tire and tools are easy to access as long and there isn't a bunch of stuff back there. There is a long narrow cubby that is formed by the front wall that I've made and the floor. This cubby comes in handy for storing extra tools, towels, nitrile gloves etc.
Leave a comment:
-
I don't have any more pictures right now, but I'll get some. The panels don't cover the lights. The lights are still mostly exposed to make it easier to service the bulbs. That area is also my port for the rear speakers.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Basement_Modder View PostDo you have any more pictures of the side panels you built? Curious how they cover the back area by the tail lights.
Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View PostI remember the top hats in the front, even so I didn't think you could go that low w/o the springs floating in the front.
Have you considered raising the mount inside the rear of the car instead of shortening the shock shaft?
About 2.5-3" lower than stock is good for me, considering the gravel road I live on, so I don't anticipate ever trying to go that low... but it does look nice!
I may make some rear drop plates that also convert the rear to Aspire brakes, but that's a whole other can of worms. I just used what I had to do this. Mostly, I wanted to drive Pedro and these camber plates were all I had left in stock and I have to run the car this low or I'll have a ton of toe out in the back and that's just scary. Lol
I love the way Pedro looks like this, but I doubt my race tires will fit, so it won't be permanent. For now though, Pedro is stanced like a baws.
Originally posted by bhazard View PostWhere did you get the springs themselves?Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-15-2016, 02:05 PM.
Leave a comment:
-
I remember the top hats in the front, even so I didn't think you could go that low w/o the springs floating in the front.
Have you considered raising the mount inside the rear of the car instead of shortening the shock shaft?
About 2.5-3" lower than stock is good for me, considering the gravel road I live on, so I don't anticipate ever trying to go that low... but it does look nice!
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by bhearts View PostHuh. How do you get that changed? The toe in the rear.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I made a new set of these spacers with a 5 degree angle. I still don't have them right because my toe is 1/16 out overall in the back and I've maxed the adjustment all the way in. It will take me another 6 months to make a set that is perfect, but I'll get it right eventually. I do this stuff very slowly in my spare time (which I don't get very often these days). I have had these -4 degrees spacers for almost a year, waiting to go on, but I haven't had time to put them in. I stole all pedro's brakes and suspension to put on our LeMons car, so I had to put new stuff together for Pedro. It's nice to have this car back together. I've gone over a month without being able to drive it since it's been up on jack stands.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-15-2016, 09:14 AM.
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: