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something something.... DANGER ZONE!
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Haven't started it yet. Need to weld up the intake pipe today then should be able to start it.
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They forced me to switch from picasa to google photo and photo doesn't play nice with linking pics. I'll try to fix it when I get back to a laptop.Last edited by shorestiva; 08-25-2016, 05:47 AM.
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I don't know if it's me or my computer but I can only see one of the images in the last post.
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Well I probably would've had it running yesterday buuuuuut I had to drive to new york to take my master tech certs. Stuck here till friday so should hopefully be running saturday.
Finally took my drums to the machine shop. They drilled the wrong pattern the first time also tapped my spindles for some random thread size.
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Its not as pretty as I'd like but it should work. Had a friends wedding this weekend so didn't accomplish much.
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That downpipe is coming out nicely. This thing is going to rip.
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Ah I get it. Oh well I'll worry about that on the next one.
Opened up the harness and shortened the wiring for the vaf.
Extended the wires for the disty and coolant temp sensor.
Started on the exhaust
Just barely clears the cv boot.
As far as I got. Its been to freaking hot to do anything after work this week.
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Originally posted by shorestiva View PostWould using a coupling nut and some threaded rod to extend the rod coming out of the booster work? Only slight geometry change and no added heat in components.
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I may have a picture somewhere. Others have documented the same mod on the forum but I'm not good with the search.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-17-2016, 12:14 PM.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostI'm more concerned with the difference in geometry. You've altered the relation between the fulcrum and the pivot. Also, this changes the way that stress is applied to the pivot. The pressure that the booster rod sees is substantial under heavy braking. The part that is welded on may try to twist the pedal more than the original mounting location.
I had to get creative to hook up all the coolant lines. Its not pretty but should hopefully work without rubbing holes in everything. I deleted the lines running to the throttle body so that made it slightly easier. Still need to come up with a upper rad hose. The stock b3 one is 2 inches short of reaching the radiator.
Slowly getting there.
Mounted another purge solenoid to control the vics.
Still waiting on exhaust and intake parts to show up but it looks like I might have it done in time. As a little extra motivation to get it done I signed up for a scca track night at njmp on 8/10 so I need to have to running by then.
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Originally posted by shorestiva View PostShouldn't have shown me it lol. Post 34 in this thread I just welded a extension onto the pedal. The pedals on these are pretty thick and my extension is kinda long with about the same thickness. I wouldn't think it'd have a noticeable effect on feel but you know more about how heat affects it.
Originally posted by jason_ View PostWelding weakens? Ubless the material is odd, I can't imagine..
Unless in a situation of poor bond, the welding bead itself is stronger then the material it's welded to.
Proper preheat and proper cool down to avoid shock, really shouldn't be an issue unless 2 incompatible materials are attempted to be glued together.
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1. Any time metal is welded, the part is now under internal stress that stays in the part unless it's heat treated to remove that stress or it breaks. This is not good in a critical part that is cycled often (i.e. brake pedal).
2. Welding creates a Heat Affected Zone around the weld. This HAZ area is weaker than the original metal was before welding. Certain metals become brittle in this area and others become soft. Also, any welding flaws could lead to cracking of the part.
3. Making a part more rigid, doesn't necessarily make it stronger. Parts have been designed to flex a certain way and distribute load a certain way. When a part has been modified by adding material, it can cause the load to be unevenly distributed, or cause the load to be distributed to the incorrect area of the part. This often causes premature failure of modified parts.
4. Altering the geometry of a critical part is not a task to be taken lightly. Components like brake parts are designed by the best engineers that the company has on staff. These guys get paid well, and the parts undergo millions of dollars worth of tests before they are put on a consumer vehicle. This must be taken into consideration before altering any safety related part on a car. I consult with half a dozen automotive engineers when I alter brake parts or suspension parts. This way I know that what I'm doing will not jeopardize my life or the lives of those around me any more than I already do (We all know I don't need help being dangerous).Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-16-2016, 09:52 AM.
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Welding weakens? Ubless the material is odd, I can't imagine..
Unless in a situation of poor bond, the welding bead itself is stronger then the material it's welded to.
Proper preheat and proper cool down to avoid shock, really shouldn't be an issue unless 2 incompatible materials are attempted to be glued together.
Sent from my One using TapatalkLast edited by jason_; 07-10-2016, 12:07 PM.
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Shouldn't have shown me it lol. Post 34 in this thread I just welded a extension onto the pedal. The pedals on these are pretty thick and my extension is kinda long with about the same thickness. I wouldn't think it'd have a noticeable effect on feel but you know more about how heat affects it.
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Looking good! I'm a little jealous that you have that engine. It's going to be a nice upgrade.
Also, I never noticed how you addressed the booster problem. I always just weld a spacer onto the clevis that screws onto the booster shaft. Welding brake pedals freaks me out because it could weaken the pedal. I'd like to compare the 2 different methods to see if the feel is any different.
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