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'88 L Street/Track Build- Coilovers • B6ZE • Weber DCOE's • Widebody • Chopped Top •

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    I picked up a bike mount for the roof rack. Still need to come up with a way to secure the rear axle of my drift trike so I can start hauling it. It barely fits in the hatch area but the front wheel pokes out from between the seats into my elbow space.






    Also bought an orange variable intermittent wiper stalk. Still need to find a variable wiper switch so I can use the stalk.




    I got the cast bracket blasted and painted today. Went to the hardware store to buy bolts and washers, and some 1/8" wall 1/2" npt black iron pipe to make spacers. I left the rubber in the new mount but opened up the holes that were molded in and filled the voids with quick cure windshield urethane. Rubber isn't compressible but it can be displaced so filling in the holes should stiffen it up some. I also filled up the sides so the urethane was level with the outside of the mount. I think I can play with different OD washers to "tune" the stiffness of the mount- smaller OD would allow more displacement and be softer, and larger ID would 'hold in" more of the soft stuff and firm up the bushing. Or maybe I'm overthinking all of that...:lol:

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  • jawja jim
    replied
    I always have to correct them, but I am able to do it good naturedly(even if I want to add, Dummy). It's easier when it involves people not much older than a Festy, and I've found that most people who correctly identify, usually had one in the family, friends, etc.

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  • dliverance
    replied
    Lol they do attract a bit of attention. I was at the parts store a few weeks ago and a guy holding his son shouted "nice Fiesta" I didn't bother to correct him but it felt good.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Swapped the solenoid with one from the Miata starter. It's been starting reliably so far, no more hammering needed. Also picked up a b3 passenger motor mount Saturday, both the cast bracket and a new rubber mount. Have a couple more goodies in the mail, I'll post those once they arrive.

    The car has been getting way more attention than I ever thought a Festiva would get. Had a guy spot it as he rolled through the gas station yesterday morning, he turned around and came back by to get another look and yells "That's the coolest Festiva I've ever seen!". The day before I had a 8-10 year old kid looking at in in a parking lot, then told me that they "really liked my car" as I got in it. Yesterday a guy in a nicely modded BMW slowed way down when turning in front of me so he could gawk longer, then threw the hang loose sign as he passed. From the look on his face I think he was both amazed and bewildered at the same time lol. I was used to the VW getting a ton of attention but never expected it from this car.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    If you hook up the g series starter you'll spin the engine backwards. Lol. The starter on the XR2 goes the other direction in relation to the flywheel. Same deal with the Automatic Festiva starter, it will spin the engine backwards if it's installed on a manual trans.

    You can pull your starter apart and dress the armature with some Scotch Brite on your lathe. Also, the brushes can be replaced. The solenoid is replaceable too. I've successfully rebuilt the starter on both Pedro and Tweak.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 08-04-2016, 12:05 AM.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    The starter has been acting up the last couple weeks. It's start fine for a day or two then randomly won't do anything. I can whack it with a hammer and it'll start so I'm guessing it's a sticking solenoid... Can I swap the starter from the b6t over? Part numbers are different between the two looking them up online. Edit- It's getting 12v to the starter so I don't think it's the switch.
    Last edited by theastronaut; 08-03-2016, 02:38 PM.

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  • dliverance
    replied
    I'm super interested in the black box but I would need to learn a lot more about setting it up

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    I'd definitely run them to a manifold. Also, a small inline fuel filter helps to dampen pulses as well.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    I'll run a catch can/breather box. The ignition system I'm looking into uses a MAP sensor so I'll have to drill/tap each runner for vacuum lines and tie them all together before hooking up to the sensor. I may make a vacuum manifold or tank to help smooth out the individual pulses from each runner to get a better signal for the MAP sensor, and the brake booster could be hooked up to that.

    The ignition control system:

    Turns your old school mechanical advance distributor into a high-powered programmable ignition with CB Performance's new Black Box Programmable Timing Control Module!





    Their vacuum reference kit if you don't want to drill/tap your manifold. I'd rather drill and tap than have to deal with the spacers and extra gaskets.

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  • dliverance
    replied
    Great progress. I can't believe how much more room the g gets you.

    Are you going to use the pcv or run a catch can? I'm still pondering my brake booster vac line and the pcv system.
    Last edited by dliverance; 07-24-2016, 01:37 AM.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Made a temporary passenger side mount so I can leave the engine in and get the hoist out of the way. It's all gotta be out of the shop before we open back up Monday.



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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Got the crossmember spaced down. I think the Capri mount is keeping the motor too far to the passenger side, and too far forward.

    Roughly 3/4" from the top of the frame rail that hasn't been bashed in.




    The pulley is about 5/8" from the passenger side rail.




    Intake flange is 13 3/16" from an area on the firewall that hasn't been bashed in. There's room to go back for better AC, radiator, and condenser clearance and still be able to fit filters.



    Cam gears are 9 3/8" from the inner fender.




    I may make a plenum routed to a cold air box over the top of the transmission... there's a lot of open space over the transmission without an air flow sensor, and that transmission is ugly. something like this but with another air box over the transmission drawing in outside air.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    K, it looks like that capri mount might just work. I wish I knew that before I made my own. Lol.
    You can work that frame rail a bit more with a torch and a good size ball peen or body hammers. It's a bit of a bear because there are several layers of steel under there.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Trans to frame rail, the car was BP swapped before so both rails were already beat in. I'll need to get a spare Festiva mount.




    Capri rear mount.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    On second thought. That capri rear mount seems to work. Take a picture of the tranny end cover's relation to the frame rail. It should be right up against it. You'll want to clearance the frame rail.

    Here is an example of the last G15mr I swapped in. It all worked great with the capri xr2 axles and there's plenty of camber/suspension adjustment without binding issues. If your engine/trans is too far to the passenger side, you won't have as much adjustability.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-23-2016, 08:52 AM.

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