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'88 L Street/Track Build- Coilovers • B6ZE • Weber DCOE's • Widebody • Chopped Top •
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Astronaut, I may have a lead on dohc 1.6l headers for fwd. I should know tomorrow. Also, do you have to use the trumpets or no? There's some filter assemblies that would save you a bit more room.
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I've been dreaming of this type of build for years. It's awesome to see it coming to life!
We moved the engine 2.125" forward on our LeMons car with the g15mr tranny. That gives you just enough space for your filter.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-12-2016, 07:57 PM.
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Dug the Webers out of storage so I could take some measurements...
That and I really just wanted to see the Webers mounted on the Miata motor. :love10:

Roughly 10" from the intake flange to the tip of the stacks. Filter housings will be another ~1" taller.

Measuring the distance between the firewall and the stock B3's intake flange. Roughly 9.75". I'll need the extra space from moving the B6 forward.

Since it's July and I was already driving around in the yard... :usa2:
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Yep, I have those in the leftover parts stash. Will dig them out when I pull the Webers out of storage.Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
I posted wanted ads on all of the Miata Facebook groups I could find. Took a few months of looking to get that one. Only other intake I found was a new Harada from a place in Japan. They wanted over $500 and shipping was extra... no thanks!Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostAwesome! 2 of these in two weeks bought by festiva owners. Where are you guys finding this stuff? I looked for one of those for over a year with no luck.
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Awesome! 2 of these in two weeks bought by festiva owners. Where are you guys finding this stuff? I looked for one of those for over a year with no luck.Originally posted by theastronaut View Post
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Yeah. Your coilovers should have come with some. Just use the ones that came with them.Originally posted by theastronaut View PostI've noticed that the springs would bind and pop on very tight turns but it hasn't been much of an issue... it's so little that I rarely have to turn that tight to maneuver the car around. So I need something like these:


Like these have. I also put a washer between the spring hat and the strut bearing to distribute the load on the aluminum better.
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I've noticed that the springs would bind and pop on very tight turns but it hasn't been much of an issue... it's so little that I rarely have to turn that tight to maneuver the car around. So I need something like these:Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostYou don't have any spring top hats. That means your springs are binding when you turn the steering wheel. The spring should turn with the strut bearing and strut while the strut mount remains stationary. You will need spring hats and some washers to rest the spring weight on the bearing.
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You don't have any spring top hats. That means your springs are binding when you turn the steering wheel. The spring should turn with the strut bearing and strut while the strut mount remains stationary. You will need spring hats and some washers to rest the spring weight on the bearing.Originally posted by theastronaut View Post
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Apparently the oil drain plate hit something and that knocked the drain plug loose. Oil got all over the header and caught the tail end of the car on fire.Originally posted by Fordverde View Postwhat happen with your Bug? The one that caught on fire
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I've been looking at Vintage Air's Gen IV system for the under-dash stuff. They're really big in the street rod industry and we've used one on a '68 Chevelle we built last year. They're not cheap but they'd more than get the job done and would be fairly simple to install.
Catalog pages for the Gen IV system:
Also, today I FINALLY (!!!!!) found an intake to use my Weber DCOE's on the 1.6. That was the last big piece of the puzzle- needed it to check for firewall clearance. Should be here late this week or next week. Has linkage with it, and the price was right. So far I only have $1,186 into buying the blue '88 L, Capri XR2 for the G-series, B6ze Miata motor, dual Weber carbs, and the manifold/linkage. I'll have the leftover B6t and Capri shell to sell to re-coupe some of the expense once I get the parts I need pulled.
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The orifice tube is a KISS system and has less chance of failure. Also the OP wants to go with a larger evaporator which in turn means the factory TXV is out. Also the only reason an orifice tube is in need of replacement is when something else in the system fails to the point that it clogs the filter before the tube.
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