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'88 L Street/Track Build- Coilovers • B6ZE • Weber DCOE's • Widebody • Chopped Top •

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Space the crossmember down 3/8 of an inch. Use the stock festiva engine mount bracket, but space it out approximately 2.125 inches from the block. Use the stock festiva engine mount on the spaced out bracket. Make a custom alt. top bracket by drilling a new hole in the festiva one. You may want to make new transmission mounts. I don't think the capri rear mount will put the engine where you want it.
    You can use the festiva shift rods, just modify the length. The ends are the same as the capri. The festiva shifter linkage is clocked 90 degrees from the capri, but you can adjust that when you adjust the length.


    Here is an example of spacing the festiva engine mound bracket on the B6D (b6t is identical). You'll use longer spacers than this, but it'll look similar. You'll also need to make a spacer plate out of 3/8" steel to go between the bracket and the engine mount (to drop the engine 3/8").
    You don't have to modify the actual engine mount at all, but you may want to fill it with polyurethane.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-23-2016, 08:44 AM.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Got the AC compressor, power steering pump, exhaust manifold/turbo, and other unnecessary parts off, then stuck the motor in. Actually I left the AC compressor on but there's no room for it, it hits the radiator support so I had to take it back off. It is even possible to run AC with a forward mounted G-series? The Sanden compressor is slightly smaller than the original compressor.




    I left the original driver side rear transmission mount on the transmission, it lines up and fits in the Festiva crossmember. I think it's holding the engine too far forward though. I'm getting 13" from the firewall to the intake flange, so it needs to move back around 1" (Charlie said his car measures 12" there). The firewall is pushed in a little bit though.




    Seems to sit up too high? Do I need to space the crossmember down to get it to drop lower?




    Distance between the original festiva shift rod and the stud for it on the trans. I know these have to be lengthened using the Capri ends.




    Capri engine mount compared to the Festiva bracket. I need to go do a lot of studying in the B6/G-series mount sticky.

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  • bhazard
    replied
    I really want a set of those to put on my civic hx wheels. They currently have 185/60's on them, in really good shape, but they're not ideal.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    I buy mine off eBay. Crazy cheap. 223 bucks for 4 tires, shipped! My A048r tires are 215 a tire! The sticky factor doesn't compare, but I can run the Achilles on the street without them wearing out in 1000 miles. Lol
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-21-2016, 03:56 PM.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Ah, gotcha. I'm trying to find a set of 165/55-14 Achilles ATR-K Sport tires, they'd be the perfect autocross/track tire but I can't find them in the US anywhere. They'd fit the rim nicely. I found a tire shop that carries them in bigger sizes, they're looking into finding a set.

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  • bhazard
    replied
    I mean to keep the tires from rolling on the sidewalls

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by bhazard View Post
    I dont think the Capri wheels will be wide enough for optimal track use.
    1.25" spacers would get them out within a mm of the current wheels.

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  • bhazard
    replied
    I dont think the Capri wheels will be wide enough for optimal track use.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Yes, we all need a set of those forged magnesium O.Z. Rally wheels!

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Got the engine pulled with the help of a few friends.




    I'm thinking about keeping the Capri wheels and painting them satin graphite with silver OZ Racing style decals. That way I'd have a set of wheels for track tires and they'd have to be lighter than the steel/polycast Escort wheels.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Got the Capri loaded up and dropped off at the shop today. Got a few friends coming over after church tomorrow to pull the motor and trans.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Got more stuff removed this afternoon. I think it's pretty much ready except for the clutch cable, a/c lines, one heater hose, axles, shifter, and the starter wires. Some of that will be easier to access once it's loose and lifted up a little I think. Need to tow it to the shop so I can do it on concrete instead of out in the field it's in now.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Poked around under the hood of the Capri for about 15 minutes tonight to get an idea of what all needs to be disassembled to get the motor out. There's a ton of stuff under there... :shock: Going with carbs and stand alone ignition will really clean things up.

    Will I be better off to pull just the motor, or the motor and trans together?

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by dliverance View Post
    Astronaut, I may have a lead on dohc 1.6l headers for fwd. I should know tomorrow. Also, do you have to use the trumpets or no? There's some filter assemblies that would save you a bit more room.
    I've been wondering what I should do about a header, haven't researched that yet. Keep me updated! I do have shorter bolt-on stacks so I can use a filter without the lid being too close to cause a restriction. Definitely want to use stacks to straighten out the air coming in the carbs. I think the filters are around 3.75" tall and the stacks are about 2". That's going from memory so I may be off a little.


    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    I need a tissue.
    :lol:

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    I've been dreaming of this type of build for years. It's awesome to see it coming to life!

    We moved the engine 2.125" forward on our LeMons car with the g15mr tranny. That gives you just enough space for your filter.
    I'm pretty excited about the build myself. It's nice to have a ton of factory parts that interchange so easily and they're all high quality and dirt cheap. Plus the cars have so much more potential on the track than my C10 build. I'm pretty tired of the VW aftermarket... Soooo much junk that has to be reworked before its useable, and it's ridiculously expensive to build a performance engine. The C10 aftermarket is better but it also costs a ton to go fast. I have as much in front brakes for the C10 as I paid for the whole Festiva.


    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post

    I'm getting a foot of space between the intake flange surface of the head and the firewall of the B6t/g15mr in the Lemons car. That's plenty of room.
    A foot will be more than enough. Thanks for the measurements!!

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