'88 L Street/Track Build- Coilovers • B6ZE • Weber DCOE's • Widebody • Chopped Top •

[theastronaut]

Got the engine pulled with the help of a few friends.




I'm thinking about keeping the Capri wheels and painting them satin graphite with silver OZ Racing style decals. That way I'd have a set of wheels for track tires and they'd have to be lighter than the steel/polycast Escort wheels.

[Advancedynamix]

Yes, we all need a set of those forged magnesium O.Z. Rally wheels!

[bhazard]

I dont think the Capri wheels will be wide enough for optimal track use.

[theastronaut]

I dont think the Capri wheels will be wide enough for optimal track use.

1.25" spacers would get them out within a mm of the current wheels.

[bhazard]

I mean to keep the tires from rolling on the sidewalls

[theastronaut]

Ah, gotcha. I'm trying to find a set of 165/55-14 Achilles ATR-K Sport tires, they'd be the perfect autocross/track tire but I can't find them in the US anywhere. They'd fit the rim nicely. I found a tire shop that carries them in bigger sizes, they're looking into finding a set.

[Advancedynamix]

I buy mine off eBay. Crazy cheap. 223 bucks for 4 tires, shipped! My A048r tires are 215 a tire! The sticky factor doesn't compare, but I can run the Achilles on the street without them wearing out in 1000 miles. Lol

[bhazard]

I really want a set of those to put on my civic hx wheels. They currently have 185/60's on them, in really good shape, but they're not ideal.

[theastronaut]

Got the AC compressor, power steering pump, exhaust manifold/turbo, and other unnecessary parts off, then stuck the motor in. Actually I left the AC compressor on but there's no room for it, it hits the radiator support so I had to take it back off. It is even possible to run AC with a forward mounted G-series? The Sanden compressor is slightly smaller than the original compressor.




I left the original driver side rear transmission mount on the transmission, it lines up and fits in the Festiva crossmember. I think it's holding the engine too far forward though. I'm getting 13" from the firewall to the intake flange, so it needs to move back around 1" (Charlie said his car measures 12" there). The firewall is pushed in a little bit though.




Seems to sit up too high? Do I need to space the crossmember down to get it to drop lower?




Distance between the original festiva shift rod and the stud for it on the trans. I know these have to be lengthened using the Capri ends.




Capri engine mount compared to the Festiva bracket. I need to go do a lot of studying in the B6/G-series mount sticky.

[Advancedynamix]

Space the crossmember down 3/8 of an inch. Use the stock festiva engine mount bracket, but space it out approximately 2.125 inches from the block. Use the stock festiva engine mount on the spaced out bracket. Make a custom alt. top bracket by drilling a new hole in the festiva one. You may want to make new transmission mounts. I don't think the capri rear mount will put the engine where you want it.
You can use the festiva shift rods, just modify the length. The ends are the same as the capri. The festiva shifter linkage is clocked 90 degrees from the capri, but you can adjust that when you adjust the length.


Here is an example of spacing the festiva engine mound bracket on the B6D (b6t is identical). You'll use longer spacers than this, but it'll look similar. You'll also need to make a spacer plate out of 3/8" steel to go between the bracket and the engine mount (to drop the engine 3/8").
You don't have to modify the actual engine mount at all, but you may want to fill it with polyurethane.

[Advancedynamix]

On second thought. That capri rear mount seems to work. Take a picture of the tranny end cover's relation to the frame rail. It should be right up against it. You'll want to clearance the frame rail.

Here is an example of the last G15mr I swapped in. It all worked great with the capri xr2 axles and there's plenty of camber/suspension adjustment without binding issues. If your engine/trans is too far to the passenger side, you won't have as much adjustability.

[theastronaut]

Trans to frame rail, the car was BP swapped before so both rails were already beat in. I'll need to get a spare Festiva mount.




Capri rear mount.

[Advancedynamix]

K, it looks like that capri mount might just work. I wish I knew that before I made my own. Lol.
You can work that frame rail a bit more with a torch and a good size ball peen or body hammers. It's a bit of a bear because there are several layers of steel under there.

[theastronaut]

Got the crossmember spaced down. I think the Capri mount is keeping the motor too far to the passenger side, and too far forward.

Roughly 3/4" from the top of the frame rail that hasn't been bashed in.




The pulley is about 5/8" from the passenger side rail.




Intake flange is 13 3/16" from an area on the firewall that hasn't been bashed in. There's room to go back for better AC, radiator, and condenser clearance and still be able to fit filters.



Cam gears are 9 3/8" from the inner fender.




I may make a plenum routed to a cold air box over the top of the transmission... there's a lot of open space over the transmission without an air flow sensor, and that transmission is ugly. something like this but with another air box over the transmission drawing in outside air.

[theastronaut]

Made a temporary passenger side mount so I can leave the engine in and get the hoist out of the way. It's all gotta be out of the shop before we open back up Monday.