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'88 L Street/Track Build- Coilovers • B6ZE • Weber DCOE's • Widebody • Chopped Top •

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by xXxEpicxXx View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/Protege-Perfo.../dp/B00JA1BNL0

    looking at your comparison to the honda headers and your measurment of the outlets i think this would be the header to try
    and the bottom outlet seems to go to the right area as well (seeing as its made for a mazda anyway)

    just something to think about. thats what im going to look into if not ill build a set

    I should have thought about looking at other Mazda headers... doh! I looked for a 4-2-1 version (should produce a wider torque curve vs 4-1) of those on ebay and couldn't find anything except the 4-1 style. A 4-2-1 style for a '93-97 Probe/MX-6 popped up in the "results matching fewer words" section, and it looks like it exits more to the driver side which is what we'd need.

    This listing has a good straight-on pic to show the shape.




    This listing has a measurement of the port spacing, which looks to be almost identical to the B6d spacing so swapping flanges should be easier than the Honda header.

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  • xXxEpicxXx
    replied


    looking at your comparison to the honda headers and your measurment of the outlets i think this would be the header to try
    and the bottom outlet seems to go to the right area as well (seeing as its made for a mazda anyway)

    just something to think about. thats what im going to look into if not ill build a set

    Leave a comment:


  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    The problem with the Honda header solution is the fact that the engine faces the wrong direction, this putting the oil pan tunnel on the right instead of the left like ours. I would venture a guess that a Toyota header would be a better fit in that respect.
    I'll check into other options, thanks!

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    The problem with the Honda header solution is the fact that the engine faces the wrong direction, this putting the oil pan tunnel on the right instead of the left like ours. I would venture a guess that a Toyota header would be a better fit in that respect.

    Leave a comment:


  • theastronaut
    replied
    Looks like it'll clear the compressor and sway bar but doesn't line up with the notch in the oil pan. Might be more work than its worth to make it work. A 4-1 style would probably easier to modify to fit into the oil pan notch.




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  • william
    replied
    Looking forward to seeing how the header turns out. Looking to put one on my b6d.

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    The Accord F22 header came in today and I was able to compare the flange to the B6d gasket. I also ordred a B6d flange that should be here Friday.






    The Honda spacing is a little wider, but I should be able to move the pipes around enough to match up to the B6 flange.




    Hopefully it clears the a/c compressor and lower rad support. I'll take it home tonight and see how it fits on the blue swap car since it's still together.



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  • firebush357
    replied
    So Pretty!

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  • w4rkry
    replied
    Now those are H - O - T hawt!

    - Korean Note 4 via Tapatalk -

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by Team Lightning View Post
    I can't wait to see your car finished!
    I'm getting pretty anxious myself!



    The last of the parts needed to finish the Webers came today, so they're finished. I also found out that they're a rare series of DCOE's that came on certain Alfa Romeos . Hopefully that means they'll sell for enough to pay for a pair of Dellortos and all the tune up/maintanance parts for the B6d.



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  • Team Lightning
    replied
    I can't wait to see your car finished!

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    I'm almost finished with rebuilding the 40 DCOE's, just waiting on a few new parts to come in the mail. I'll put them on eBay and find a pair of 45 Dellorto's with around 37mm venturis instead since the 33mm venturis in the Webers will limit flow above 6000 rpm.






    I've had some questions about rebuilding the Webers... it's not that difficult, just time consuming and there is a lot of cleaning. I dissasembled, then soaked the bodies and parts in a gallon can of carb cleaner, then glass bead blast the carb bodies. The brass parts are soaked in aluminum brightener acid to clean off any corrosion. I found a couple of vids on youtube that show the reassembly well.



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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Originally posted by bhazard View Post
    What bearing?
    There wasn't much left of it!

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  • bhazard
    replied
    What bearing?

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  • theastronaut
    replied
    Bought another Capri last night. It was advertised as a XR2 with a 5 speed for $400. I offered $300 which he accepted, but it turned out to be a base with an auto once I got there to pick it up. I was dissapointed that it wasn't as advertised, so he offered to knock $100 off. I'm thinking I'll pull the B6d to swap into the Festiva with the 40mm Webers I already have, and build a hotter engine with 45 Dellortos later on.




    I found a spun bearing and butchered keyway when I tore down the B6ze and haven't been able to find a good crank to replace it. So the Capri not being a XR2 wasn't a bad thing, I can use the B6d from it temporarily.



    Last edited by theastronaut; 08-03-2017, 10:16 AM.

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